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After continuing to study the .pdf instructions, it appears that it may be as simple as the following:
Dome- Splice the #4 wire of the 712T to the 964's Brown/White - Door pin trigger (-) wire, AND connect the #3 wire of the 712T to ground.
Lock- Splice the #5 wire of the 712T to the 964's Brown/Blue - LOCK (-) wire.
Un-Lock- Splice the #8 wire of the 712T to the 964's Brown/Orange - UNLOCK (-) wire.
And the 12 Volt Constant, 12 Volt Switched, and ground wires.
Added from the .pdf for reference:
H1/3 BLACK/WHITE-1 Domelight Supervision Input
This wire determines what the output polarity of H1/4 will be. If the door pin circuit is negative,
connect to chassis ground. If the door circuit is positive, connect to a fused 12V source.
H1/4 BLACK/WHITE Domelight Supervision Output
Connect this wire directly to the domelight circuit in the vehicle. The on-board relay will drive
circuits up to 30 amperes. The polarity of this output is determined by the connection of the input
wire H1/3 in the Relay Harness.
NOTE: If the input wire H1/3 is not connected, there will be no output on this wire.
H1/5 GREEN/BLACK Lock #30 Common (Output)
The system has door lock relays on-board, and can directly interface with most electric power door
lock systems drawing 30 amps or less. It can also drive aftermarket actuators directly. (Some vehicles
require that an aftermarket actuator be added to the driver’s door to allow system control, see Type
D wiring section in Tech Tip Document 1041).
H1/8 BLUE/BLACK Unlock #30 Common (Output)
See H1/5.
Can anyone please confirm? ... The seat's out and the multimeter is fired up!
Thanks in advance.
Mike
'93 C2
'72 T
our964 at earthlink dot net
I need to go back and look at the 712T docs to confirm. Remember the lines are inline (splice) and the related input goes to ground (because that's the signal needed for lock/unlock/turn-on dome light...not inline.
its easy peasy the car has negative switched locks you'll pick them up coming out of the door jam and you can power your unit from the back of the radioa nice frendly circuit.If you can't find the switch wires let me know and I'll check the colours for you but I'd recomend double checking yourself anyway when you install it
Here’s a follow-up to the install of my DEI-712T keyless entry to my ’93 C2.
The information presented below was compiled from my experience with my own installation, as well as technical guidance from puma1824, and the owners and authors of the resources at the links below. Thanks to all! All disclaimers apply and be sure to check and recheck all connections with your VOM before applying power. Links to product guides are shown as they may aid in the installation of your own product, and are not to be construed as endorsements.
Please review the attached .pdf for the details of my install. Note: Instructions from puma1824 described a Brown/Orange - UNLOCK (-) wire in the harness of his ’91 C4, while my ’93 C2 has a Brown/Green wire for this function. Review the 993 Forum link below for a discussion on differing codes with respect to some wires, and check your own car for specifics. I was able to locate all of the required harness sources under the passenger seat in either the yellow or black connectors, so wire runs from beneath the seat were unnecessary.
All of the standard functionality shown in the DEI-712T manual exists with my install, with the exception of one. When you enter the car and turn on the key, the locks are supposed to lock automatically within 3 seconds. They don’t, but if locked with the central lock button, they will unlock automatically when the key is turned off. I thought that this may be a convenient feature to have, but I don’t think I will miss it. This may have to do with some sort of central lock function priority when the key is on, but I don’t know. I may research further.
So I now have remote lock/unlock, turn signal flash, and auto unlock when key is turned off.
Has anyone tried adding a trunk unlock servo of some kind?. that's the one that kills me with armloads of groceries... It takes multiple steps to get the trunk open...
Has anyone tried adding a trunk unlock servo of some kind?. that's the one that kills me with armloads of groceries... It takes multiple steps to get the trunk open...
Hello folks,
I searched thru the archives and found not too much data on adding keyless entry to my already power-lock equipped 1990 C4 targa..
I dont have any insurance requirements like those of you in Europe.. So just adding a remote so I dont have to use the key is what I am looking for.
Anyone have recommendations of a brand or type of keyless remote control unit?
Thanks!
-Mike
1990 911 C4 Targa
I installed a DEI 712T unit today in my 89 C4.
Dont bother hooking into the factory alarm on the 89-90 cars which is nearly inaccessable (its in the trunk in the right hinge area waaaaay in the back) and a PITA to hook into.
Instead, you will hook into the Central Lock Control unit that resides at the top of the passenger footwell under the dash. Its a small black box that is supported by a small bracket.
I connected the DEI Valet 712T unit for remote Lock/Unlock ONLY as follows:
H1/1 Red - (+) 12V constant power input
H1/5 Green/black - Brown/Blue - LOCK (-) *inline tap
H1/7 Violet/black - Ground
H1/8 Blue/black - Brown/Green - UNLOCK (-) *inline tap
H1/9 Violet - Ground
H1/11 Black - Ground
I did not bother hooking up any other functions and it works great. Factory alarm activate/deactivaes with the locks with no special setup.
I just did this upgrade today and wanted to share some insights. I have a 1994 C4, so some of this may not apply to the early-gen 964s.
1. If you can get your passenger seat out, the whole install should only take an hour or less. My two front hex bolts were stripped and I could only get the 4 rear bolts removed. Spent a lot of time trying to get the front bolts loose and ended up giving up trying to remove the bolts.
For those that have the similar issue or do not want to remove your passenger seat, it is possible to do this install without removing the seat, but the working space is limited and will require some body gymnastics. You will need to find your power locking module under the seat (it has the yellow wiring harness plug) and simply unscrew it from the floor. There are two small phillips screws securing it. Once you do this, it is fairly easy to unplug and plug the harness to get access to the wires. My recommendation is to remove the seat if you can and have as much room to work with if at all possible.
2. On the later generation cars, the H1/8 - Brown/Orange - UNLOCK (-) *inline tap is actually Brown/Green.
3. Do yourself a favor and buy some new hex bolts for the seat in advance. There are a total of 6 bolts per seat (2 in front and 4 in the rear). I got mine from Sunset for ~$2/ea. Even if you get your bolts off, there is a good chance you will slightly strip them and replacing with fresh bolts will make it easier to remove if you ever have to in the future. Plus, for safety reasons, the bolts should probably be replaced. Part number: 900-119-030-02.
Overall, I love the results and convenience of keyless entry. Don't understand why these cars didn't come with this feature from the factory. Jim
09-11-2005, 10:09 PM
