I've had a problem with my car that has reoccurred every day...my traction light PDAS comes on at almost the exact spot on my drive. If I take different routes, the consistency still occurs at several other locations...very strange.

When my car is hooked up to the Hammer...it shows accelerometer errors. I've had them cleaned, but that hasn't helped.

Someone told me a problem can occur when there is stray voltage...this trips the computer up and shows accelerometer errors, even when that is not the problem. This person said to wet the engine at night and check for leaking voltage...BINGO. Blue sparks on several lines and caps.

Wondering if I can have my mechanic isolate the bad lines through some test...or should all of the lines and caps be replaced (which can get expensive)

This probably explains why my car has occasional stalled when approaching stop signs...I've also notice the radio has more interference.

 

You are talking about distributor caps and spark plug wires, right?

If you are running the original spark plug wires, probably best to just replace them all.
Vertexauto.com has the best price for OEM replacement that I've come across.

 

targatime, whose front bumper do you have installed. It looks sweet.

 

my thoughts on this are to just replace everything and be done with it. It is shotgunning, but if you try to narrow down exactly which lines are leaking you may be able to replace just those, but you are paying for extra labor. They are all likely to be the same age, so the rest may go bad next week also. Finally, the exhaust and heat shields must be removed to get to the bottom wires and if you have to do that multiple times because you didnt get all the leakers to start with you may rack up more cost than just doing them all the first time.

my 2cp

 

That avatar is my dad's car..so the front end is a Strosek splitter. The car sounds as good as it looks more like a Ferrari than P.

My car is the same year...a 90 C4...but mine has 140K miles....I guess at 140 miles (having just replaced the original clutch) it is probably time to do the wires.

 

Hi mate, I've just had a similar problem. Listen to the chaps on here, first check you're coils and the leads. Then the dizzy caps rotor arms etc.

My problem was the coils and leads.

Cheers

Sunil

 

The one thing that confuses me is I saw the blue sparks on many of the wires and right at the spark plugs (along with the dis caps plugs).

Does the leaking voltage travel down the wires once it gets outside of the cap

 

Targa time,

The Strosek splitter; is that a whole kit?

The front fenders look a little wide too. Turbo body kit? They don't look like the traditional wide bodied fenders. Strosek too?

More info please, looks cool.

Duncan

 

I am disappointed to report that I still have the PDAS light coming on. The car runs great but the PDAS ligth comes on when I'm in view of certain cell phone towers on my route to work. I can drive that car 100 miles....but when I travel close to these two areas....warning light and buzzer come one.

I've replaced my wires, caps and rotors...the car is running great except for the alarm and light.

Battery is new...the only thing not yet replaced are my coils....any clues?????? Can anyone help....Adrian!!!!

 

I had similar probs, and was told that the alternator or coils is often the problem....

 

Change your route?? Sorry couldnt resist

 

targatime

Has anything changed or improved since you replaced the wires,caps and rotors? Does it still exibit all the problems mentioned in your first post with the exception of the main problem of the PDAS light illuminating consistantly at certain locations -(i.e. Does it still stall periodically at stop signs?, Does the hammer still indicate accelerometer errors?, Do blue sparks appear when you wet the wires?, Do you still have radio interference?). If you havn't looked at the coils try removing the covers and misting them with water. A visual inspection may show some carbon tracking from the hi tension lead to either the +ve or -ve terminal.

Hope this helps
Bill
90C2

 

The car is exhibiting the same problems except for one additional. The wires were replaced first, then about 3 weeks later the caps and rotors were done. After the rotors and caps....the car started to stall whenever I depressed the clutch and allowed the revs to drop. I figured this was a matter of adjustment. I have no radio interference.

My mech says the coils look good....but I may try replacing those next. Do coils "look bad" so is it something that just deteriorates over time?

All these problems started 3 years ago when I was having my clutch replaced. With the engine out of the car, I detailed the engine with a thorough cleaning. Then I sprayed a engine gloss on everthing to make it look nice. I suspect that the gloss may have decreased the insulating capabilities of the ignition system....just an guess.

 

As far as route....maybe I can convince my wife to say money on car repairs and move closer to work....the problem is...the roads are pretty twisty where I live. I would really mis them

 

You may also wish to check the alternator. Sometimes an alternator on it's way out can have intermittent failures. Drive with a voltimeter inserted in the cig lighter. Then wait for that spike. See if the voltage drops.