Tailight Woes
...but, how many of you burn out countless bulbs??
Here's my real question, lately, I've noticed that the bulb in my driver's side tailight doesn't always burn out, but seems to have a corroded socket. Besides cleaning out the socket with a wire brush kit...what would you use to treat it??
I'm thinking spray silicone...any suggestions??
I plan on replacing the tailight units later on, maybe in the Spring...but will have to get the sockets cleaned up and preserved as well. Would appreciate any insight from owners that have undertaken this task.
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How are your rear lights sealed. Do you have the solid light seal or the one that looks like a segmented seal.
I have the old moisture problem but have not lost a bulb or had major socket corrosion. My venting system is also intact.
This is a common problem. With the sockets the best thing to do is just to clean them up. I do not recommend spraying anything on them. It actually makes things worse. Once the corrosion is set in you have to replace them long term. Short term a wire brush and some wet and dry cleans them up,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
PS: I use a hairdryer set to low heat and blast the air in through the vent tubes. Do not do this whilst it is raining though. Leave that to Mel Gibson.
I plan to replace the tailight assemblies fairly soon, so I don't think I'll attempt any quick fixes on them.
Tonight I went to replace a bulb on the Driver's side and realized that it wasn't burned out. Once I figured out that corrosion was causing a bad connection...I merely worked the bulb back and forth until it remained lit, this was a parking lot fix.
This weekend I plan on wire brushing the socket, but I know that this will encourage corrosion to set in more rapidly due to the fact that I will likely remove any metal protection...so I was curious as to what people may have used in the past to lesson the frequency of cleaning out the light sockets.
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Around the outside of the whole assembly (when cracked only makes things worse) is a seal. There are two types of seal. Solid and not solid. The sealing was changed on the 1992 models and retrofitted to earlier models, like mine,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
Is the segmented seal the later version. I have the same corrosion and moisture problem described by Jeff. As I recall the segmented version does not cover the top of the tailight assembly. I had this version and changed to the solid light seal hoping it will provide a better seal against moisture build up.
Do you think the solid version will work better?
Thanks
Mike
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It is my understanding (simply because it is hard to find fully original 964s nowadays) that the segmented seal was used from 1989 to 1991 and for the 1992 model year the solid seals were introduced. My C4 has been retrofitted. I have only seen segemented seals on 1989 to 1991 models here in Europe. I have not researched this as throughly as I have other subjects so I cannot be 100% sure at this time,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
PS: Make sure your tail light vents are in good condition. They do help.
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The old version has the full seal,than the
VENTED version is used from 1992.The cracks are more a problem of heat building up and cant get out,therefore the sloted version is used. The corossion of the contacts is another thing,keep in mind those Cars are about 10 Years old. Just grease them with the GM stuff and your problem here is solved.
So...without further adieu, the true solution will be to pickup a fresh set of tailight lenses...but don't plan to do so until I can afford to invest in the reflector as well...asthetics people, asthetics!!

For now, I have wire brushed out the socket and smeared some GM di-electric grease in there...the moisture retention problem still remains - and I'm sure this can only be 100% cured with a new set of lenses.
$$$$$
Lenses replacement with new version worth doing. Did mine in '96 as the condensation/cracking/fading upset me everytime I looked at the rear end.
No probs since. But costly - 475 UK pounds!
John

