964 Rod Bolts - reuse/replace/RaceWare?
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Racer
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Carmichael, CA
964 Rod Bolts - reuse/replace/RaceWare?
As you probably know, I'm having the shop finish tearing down my engine so we can look for anything really ugly in the bottom end. As bad as the top parts looked, the bottom probably has issues as well.
Can the rod bolts be re-used? My mechanic says that he does except on racing engines with no problems in 30+ years of working on 911 engines, and ~250 964 engines to his credit.
I know Sir Bruce says never to re-use them, but this guy has issues with some of Bruce's other recommendations as well.
Is it worth the added expense for the RaceWare rod bolts? I'm already using the RaceWare head studs, nuts and washers.
Thanks!
Can the rod bolts be re-used? My mechanic says that he does except on racing engines with no problems in 30+ years of working on 911 engines, and ~250 964 engines to his credit.
I know Sir Bruce says never to re-use them, but this guy has issues with some of Bruce's other recommendations as well.
Is it worth the added expense for the RaceWare rod bolts? I'm already using the RaceWare head studs, nuts and washers.
Thanks!
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Thom,
If I had my engine case open, and knew I'd take it on the track, I would insist on using new rod bolts. I'd probably use the Raceware bolts, just to ensure that's not a problem in the future. I only like to do these traumatic things once...
Are you magnafluxing, or equivalent, the crank and rods, too?
If I had my engine case open, and knew I'd take it on the track, I would insist on using new rod bolts. I'd probably use the Raceware bolts, just to ensure that's not a problem in the future. I only like to do these traumatic things once...
Are you magnafluxing, or equivalent, the crank and rods, too?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Carmichael, CA
$250 from Paragon
http://www.smartcart.com/Paragon/cgi...aceware90andup
http://www.smartcart.com/Paragon/cgi...aceware90andup
Originally posted by horst-90C4:
<STRONG>how much would rod bolts be? Is it worth the peace of mind, since you are in so deep already?</STRONG>
<STRONG>how much would rod bolts be? Is it worth the peace of mind, since you are in so deep already?</STRONG>
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Carmichael, CA
Originally posted by Bill Gregory:
<STRONG>If I had my engine case open, and knew I'd take it on the track, I would insist on using new rod bolts. I'd probably use the Raceware bolts, just to ensure that's not a problem in the future. I only like to do these traumatic things once...
</STRONG>
I think I'm going to go ahead and get them; hey, it's only money...
<STRONG>
Are you magnafluxing, or equivalent, the crank and rods, too?</STRONG>
Hadn't planned on it - this was primarily an exploratory mission.
<STRONG>If I had my engine case open, and knew I'd take it on the track, I would insist on using new rod bolts. I'd probably use the Raceware bolts, just to ensure that's not a problem in the future. I only like to do these traumatic things once...
</STRONG>
I think I'm going to go ahead and get them; hey, it's only money...
<STRONG>
Are you magnafluxing, or equivalent, the crank and rods, too?</STRONG>
Hadn't planned on it - this was primarily an exploratory mission.
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Thom;
As mentioned in an earlier post, with all your additional engine upgrades to extract the most HP out of your engine, it is necessary to use raceware rod bolts. I would also recommend sending them to a machine shop familar with Porsche rods and have them check them out. If it was me I would as a minimum have the big ends resized and have them install the rod bolts and to have them torqued with a stretch gauge. I would also have you crank checked for straightness, it is important on these early 3.6's. Also depending on your track days, you might consider having the rotating components balanced, it is rather inexpensive vs piece of mind.
As mentioned in an earlier post, with all your additional engine upgrades to extract the most HP out of your engine, it is necessary to use raceware rod bolts. I would also recommend sending them to a machine shop familar with Porsche rods and have them check them out. If it was me I would as a minimum have the big ends resized and have them install the rod bolts and to have them torqued with a stretch gauge. I would also have you crank checked for straightness, it is important on these early 3.6's. Also depending on your track days, you might consider having the rotating components balanced, it is rather inexpensive vs piece of mind.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Carmichael, CA
Ok, I ordered the RaceWare rod bolts, they should be here Wednesday. I'll talk to the shop about the other suggestions, ie balancing, checking the pieces for straightness, etc.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Thom, make sure the shop is familiar with Racewear rodbolts...or at least read the detailed instructions!
They require measuring "stretch" in the rod bolt, vice torque. If I remember correctly there is a procedure suggested by them if you aren't able to measure stretch, like someone who has decided NOT to split the case, believe it involves torquing them to 65/75ft lbs?? Just from memory.
Anyway, my point is...what is my point?? If you're going to use Racewear rod bolts, as I have, make sure them do it right...they're going to need a set of machine calipers to measure to within .010 - oh yeah, racewear stuff is REUSEABLE! Not that YOU would be concerned with that...I would!
They require measuring "stretch" in the rod bolt, vice torque. If I remember correctly there is a procedure suggested by them if you aren't able to measure stretch, like someone who has decided NOT to split the case, believe it involves torquing them to 65/75ft lbs?? Just from memory.
Anyway, my point is...what is my point?? If you're going to use Racewear rod bolts, as I have, make sure them do it right...they're going to need a set of machine calipers to measure to within .010 - oh yeah, racewear stuff is REUSEABLE! Not that YOU would be concerned with that...I would!
