joey bagadonuts

Yes, I know, this is my third question this week, but it's somewhat critical. The last time I took the Track Rocket ... oops, I mean, Cruise Missle to the track I ate up my pads--down to the metal. Since I wanted to try my hand at swapping them out, this recent episode provided the perfect opportunity to do just that.

Most of it was pretty straightforward. In fact, I learned that by using a small pair of needle nose vise grips, spring removal and replacement was a snap. Nothing like having the right tools!

The question involes a stubborn pad which actually warped under the extreme heat of track use. After dislodging this pad, I noticed the backing plates (the circular piston caps) were also badly deformed. There was no way to push the pistons back into the caliper without removing them, so I gently pried THEM off as well.

I read Bill G's synopsis on prepping his car for the track and noticed that he intentionally removed the backing plates. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that this is the same item Bill referenced (the manual calls them damping plates) and that their removal poses no risk of damage. I know their absence will make future pad swaps a breeze, but I would hate to damage my brakes unknowingly. <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Cupcar

The little tophat shaped dealies are to reduce squeaking noise of a street braking system, they are not used on racing cars.

I think they act as heat conductors to conduct heat into the caliper piston and don't use them, although I don't mind the noise, you may.

From the topic title, I actually thought you were asking if it was OK to remove the large circular metal baking plates from behind the discs. This is a good idea as well, however you have to insulate the wires to the ABS sensor or it will cook. On the Carrera Cup cars Porsche made a little metal heat shield for the front wire that wrapped around the wire path and bolted on using 2 of the 3 bolts that big backing plate did. A similar part could be fabricated by cutting up the original front backing plate. There was no special shield for the rear brake wire. A piece of firesleeve was also placed over the wires front and rear as well. <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" /> <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Bill Wagner

I thought I read somewhere that someone removed the brake dampers and the squeal and/or brake noise ENDED.

I fixed one of my fronts by replacing the dampers and now the other side of the car is starting to squeal. If it's safe to pull the dampers out completely AND the brakes stay quiet I'd sure like to know about it.

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Jeff Curtis

I've removed the factory "mushroom thingies" that Cupcar refers to...with seemingly no consequences...as brake squeeeeeeel annoys the bejesus out of me! <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />

I do however notice a squeel when I leave my track pads in for a day or so, after returning from the track - but not all the time.

A few months ago, I switched over to Big Red calipers and never got the factory dampeners, haven't heard a "peep" out of 'em yet.

Bill Gregory

Joey,

Cupcar covered the points. I also removed the brake pad dampers (aka little tophat shaped dealies or mushroom thingies) and didn't reinstall them on my Pagid Orange brake pads. I do get a little squeel here and there on the street, which I don't mind. However, I attribute that to the pad, not the absence of the brake pad dampers.

joey bagadonuts

Cool, all the guru's have chimed in. By the way, why do all of you drive white 964's? Are those the ones with the 300 hp chip?

Thanks for the confirmation. It seems noise is the only area of potential concern--great news. I will keep you advised of any developments and, as always, appreciate your generous guidance. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Gary C2

Joey,
I removed my anti-squeal gizmo's and eliminated my squeal. If is safe to remove them.

Gary

JasonAndreas

[quote]Originally posted by Bill Gregory:
<strong>Cupcar covered the points. I also removed the brake pad dampers (aka little tophat shaped dealies or mushroom thingies) and didn't reinstall them on my Pagid Orange brake pads.</strong><hr></blockquote>

What do you use (if anything) to stick the pad to the piston? I know metalmasters come with little sticky pads, original porsche pads don't. Does it even matter? (i know squat about brakes (i've rebuilt calipers and changed pads but i'm still green,) electronics & ecu's is another story.)

thanks,
jason andreas
1993 964RSA

Bill Gregory

[quote]<strong> By the way, why do all of you drive white 964's? </strong><hr></blockquote>

Because white reflects light, causing the body metal to expand less, making for better aerodynamics. <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> I only wish it was that easy!!

joey bagadonuts

Ah hah! I knew this wasn't an accident!
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Taj

Jason,

I have just changed the pads and rotors on my C2, and removed the sticky mushroom bits. In terms of stuff to put on the back of the pads, I have some blue anti squeal stuff from Bendix, that cures after 20mins and i have no squeel. Interestingly, on removing the front pads, i found that the backing plate on one of the pads had become partially removed and was probably resulting in the squeal I was getting.

P.S. I replaced with stock parts.

Taj.

joey bagadonuts

[quote]Originally posted by JasonAndreas:
<strong>What do you use (if anything) to stick the pad to the piston? I know metalmasters come with little sticky pads, original porsche pads don't. Does it even matter? (i know squat about brakes (i've rebuilt calipers and changed pads but i'm still green,) </strong><hr></blockquote>

Intriguing post. You've rebuilt calipers but don't know much about brakes?

Here's my guess: I don't think you need adhesion between the pistons and pads. The pistons don't seem to retract much--just enough for rotor clearance. I'm not sure what determines the amount of retraction, but when changing pads, I've noticed there's not a whole lot of room regardless of pad thickness.

Perhaps someone can elaborate.

Cupcar

No Porsche before the 944 Turbo used any adhesives for any reason on the back of the pads. As far as I can tell only the Brembo caliper generation for the 928/944/964/993 use the so called "damping discs" between the pad and piston. They are not used on the 996 cars. I even checked the 964 3.8 RSR parts catalog and the "damping discs" are not used on that car and it's calipers are similar to the regular 964 3.6 Turbo.

Once the pistons retract, the pad just floats in the space created between the piston and rotor, no problemo. <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" /> <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

joey bagadonuts

Gracias Cupcar!

JasonAndreas

[quote]Originally posted by joey bagadonuts:
<strong>

Intriguing post. You've rebuilt calipers but don't know much about brakes?
</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yup