Roll pin for distributor shaft gear?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Roll pin for distributor shaft gear?
Anyone know the length and diameter of the roll pin that holds the drive gear on the distributor shaft?
I.e., the one that will need to get drilled out when replacing the belt that drives the second distributor...
Thanks
I.e., the one that will need to get drilled out when replacing the belt that drives the second distributor...
Thanks
#4
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When you go to replace the belt don't waste your time removing the secondary distributor drive shaft. Instead of filing down the three indents holding the cap underneath the secondary distributor housing just knock out the guide pin on the upper distributor housing (you can reuse the pin). With the pin out you can slide the old belt off and the new belt into place (its obvious once you try to split the top & bottom). To help align the distributors there is a mark at 6 o'clock on the bottom of the primary lower distributor housing that you should line up with the indent on the primary shaft. When aligned, the primary shaft is pointing at Z1.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the comments guys.
Ronnie, I did call Pelican, and the part showed up as a special order from Germany. They suggested trying a local hardware store, which is a good idea if I knew the size. Hadn't tried the local dealer(s) yet...
Richard, you have a PM
Jason, thanks for the tip.
-Dave
Ronnie, I did call Pelican, and the part showed up as a special order from Germany. They suggested trying a local hardware store, which is a good idea if I knew the size. Hadn't tried the local dealer(s) yet...
Richard, you have a PM
Jason, thanks for the tip.
-Dave
#6
Drifting
I seem to remember that i read somewhere that a drill bit has been used as the roll pin. I can't remember if it was a link through John's 964 site or where. Of course at $1 or less it's probably cheaper to get one rather than waste a bit.
Jason - do you have a picture of the pin you mentioned?
Jason - do you have a picture of the pin you mentioned?
#7
Rennlist Member
In a pinch, I used a nail (12 or 16D, I cant remember). Fit snug through the shaft and gear collar, and is soft enough to flatten the ends. I think you can get a box of about 100 for around $1....
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#8
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by craig001
Jason - do you have a picture of the pin you mentioned?
Last edited by JasonAndreas; 08-26-2004 at 04:48 PM.
#9
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fairfax Station, Va. USA
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Don't buy a pin at a hardware store. The correct Porsche part is tapered slightly, so it makes a difference I think. Be sure to peen the pin after installing, and you WILL need a press or large vice in order to insert the pin (and, actually, to drill out the old pin). Don't take any chances regardless of what you use; you do NOT want this pin to come out and fall into the engine.
DaveR: If you're going to replace the belt yourself, give me a call and I'll look over your shoulder. Not that I'm an expert, but I did do this repair myself. Hope this helps.
DaveR: If you're going to replace the belt yourself, give me a call and I'll look over your shoulder. Not that I'm an expert, but I did do this repair myself. Hope this helps.
#10
Dave I just checked Pelican on the web by entering the part # in the little box in the upper right hand corner and in shows up. When I weas first looking for one of these pins I called Pelican and they told me parts were not available . A fellow rennlister put me on this part number and I ordered on line and recived part in a week. The part shows up as a 74 thru 89 MY but it sures works fine in my car.
#11
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
.... To help align the distributors there is a mark at 6 o'clock on the bottom of the primary lower distributor housing that you should line up with the indent on the primary shaft. When aligned, the primary shaft is pointing at Z1.
I can't figure out what 'mark at 6 o'clock' you are referring to. I can't quite tell whether I have my primary shaft lined up correctly, or if I'm a tooth off. It looks close, but not PERFECT... and I don't want to assume that it's close enough.
Thanks!
#14
Here's a DIY Write-up plus a few pics I pulled from Rennlist and p-car showing the marks to line up the rotors.
Again, my rotors did not line up perfectly, but I played with the belt going one tooth back and forth till I got them both pretty close to perfect. It seemed obvious to me that they were set correctly when I was done.
Again, my rotors did not line up perfectly, but I played with the belt going one tooth back and forth till I got them both pretty close to perfect. It seemed obvious to me that they were set correctly when I was done.
#15
Burning Brakes
I am aware of those marks, but unless I misunderstood Jason's remarks, it seemed that he was referring to marks on the lower housing, no?
It's interesting to hear that you didn't believe that your shafts/rotors were lined up "perfectly". Wouldn't the consequences of being off by a tooth be severe?
With both the primary and secondary shafts installed, I placed the rotors back on to help me determine if I was aligned properly with those marks that you show on the upper housing. But, again, it doesn't seem like they are BOTH simultaneously and perfectly pointing at marks. Is perfection realistic?
Thanks for your help.
It's interesting to hear that you didn't believe that your shafts/rotors were lined up "perfectly". Wouldn't the consequences of being off by a tooth be severe?
With both the primary and secondary shafts installed, I placed the rotors back on to help me determine if I was aligned properly with those marks that you show on the upper housing. But, again, it doesn't seem like they are BOTH simultaneously and perfectly pointing at marks. Is perfection realistic?
Thanks for your help.