Intermitent alternator light on
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 104
Likes: 30
From: South East England
The brown is old flux - what you're really looking for is evidence of cracks or dull solder. It wouldn't hurt to clean and reflow those joints though.
It isn't advisable to run without a lamp or use an LED. Although our alternators will 'self excite' (start generating), they need a bit of RPM to do so. If you run without a lamp, then there is a risk that the alternator will not start generating at low RPM. As has been said above, an LED does not draw enough current to start the alternator. NEVER feed the the lamp signal with 12V, you will damage the regulator.
It isn't advisable to run without a lamp or use an LED. Although our alternators will 'self excite' (start generating), they need a bit of RPM to do so. If you run without a lamp, then there is a risk that the alternator will not start generating at low RPM. As has been said above, an LED does not draw enough current to start the alternator. NEVER feed the the lamp signal with 12V, you will damage the regulator.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 191
Likes: 19
From: Dubai
The brown is old flux - what you're really looking for is evidence of cracks or dull solder. It wouldn't hurt to clean and reflow those joints though.
It isn't advisable to run without a lamp or use an LED. Although our alternators will 'self excite' (start generating), they need a bit of RPM to do so. If you run without a lamp, then there is a risk that the alternator will not start generating at low RPM. As has been said above, an LED does not draw enough current to start the alternator. NEVER feed the the lamp signal with 12V, you will damage the regulator.
It isn't advisable to run without a lamp or use an LED. Although our alternators will 'self excite' (start generating), they need a bit of RPM to do so. If you run without a lamp, then there is a risk that the alternator will not start generating at low RPM. As has been said above, an LED does not draw enough current to start the alternator. NEVER feed the the lamp signal with 12V, you will damage the regulator.
Do you meant don's use the following method to solve the low voltage issue at idle?
To add additional light bulb to a switched 12V with the blue wire from alternator?
Thanks
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 104
Likes: 30
From: South East England
^ I didn't say that. I said don't use LEDs for the alternator light or run without a lamp.
I can't see a problem with the circuit above but I can't see a need for it either as our alternator works fine with the standard bulb.
Bad connections (power leads and ground straps) can cause the VR problems as the VR doesn't get a steady voltage 'reading'. These a standard Denso voltage regulators - same as fitted to millions of current vehicles so can be tested at most auto electrical places.
I can't see a problem with the circuit above but I can't see a need for it either as our alternator works fine with the standard bulb.
Bad connections (power leads and ground straps) can cause the VR problems as the VR doesn't get a steady voltage 'reading'. These a standard Denso voltage regulators - same as fitted to millions of current vehicles so can be tested at most auto electrical places.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 135
From: Bucks, Herts, Beds Tri-Border, UK
I'm on my second clock because of this issue. Original clock I resoldered in a few places and was fine for about a year then it started to play up. Closer look (magnifying glass!) there were what looked like the tiny duff/burnt resistors. Gave up on this and took the gamble with an eBay replacement. All good and now allows alternator 'exciting' on startup. Only downside is that the clock forwarding, on the switch below, does not function and is an actual onboard clock issue - I'll leave this as is. For peace of mind I got a small cheap digital voltage readout from Amazon that I fixed under the dash knee bar - only way to keep an eye on v readings and charging states while driving.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 191
Likes: 19
From: Dubai
^ I didn't say that. I said don't use LEDs for the alternator light or run without a lamp.
I can't see a problem with the circuit above but I can't see a need for it either as our alternator works fine with the standard bulb.
Bad connections (power leads and ground straps) can cause the VR problems as the VR doesn't get a steady voltage 'reading'. These a standard Denso voltage regulators - same as fitted to millions of current vehicles so can be tested at most auto electrical places.
I can't see a problem with the circuit above but I can't see a need for it either as our alternator works fine with the standard bulb.
Bad connections (power leads and ground straps) can cause the VR problems as the VR doesn't get a steady voltage 'reading'. These a standard Denso voltage regulators - same as fitted to millions of current vehicles so can be tested at most auto electrical places.
According to the test drive in the past few days.
I noticed the idle voltage iat battery post is around 13.7 and rear fuse box are both around 14.1V during the first drive of the day.
And idle voltage dip down to 13.4V at battery and 13.1V at rear fuse box after 15-20 mins of driving when the car and it is like this for the rest of the day.
In both cases the voltage all went up to 13.8V at battery and 14.5V at rear fuse box when car is driving with no extras electrical load like electrical AC since weather her is quite good now here.
May I assume this not likely to connection loose among the cable since the voltage was up to standard when car os cold and focus the issue is from a VR?
I've acquired a voltage IN6001 , https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/80904459.html
Which it is almost identical to the one on WOSP alternator.
But it jsut came with 3 pin connection.
In I can to test swap the VR, when one shall I connect, S/IGN/L terminal?
Or it is required to get a VR from WOSP or your end?
Thanks
