Good spark plug/wire replacement walkthrough
#1
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Good spark plug/wire replacement walkthrough
Hi all-
I went through Adrian's book and to no avail did I find a good walk through on spark plug/wire R&R. Specifically, I'd like to learn all the gotcha's and all the stuff I need to dismantle in the engine compartment before I can expect to carry out this task.
Thanks for any help,
Jon
I went through Adrian's book and to no avail did I find a good walk through on spark plug/wire R&R. Specifically, I'd like to learn all the gotcha's and all the stuff I need to dismantle in the engine compartment before I can expect to carry out this task.
Thanks for any help,
Jon
#2
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Okay shameless bump to the top. Doesn't anyone have a pet procedure they would be willing to share? Ya know, stuff to remove, gaskets, etc. you'll have to buy. I have the wires and the plugs and ready to go.
Thanks
Jon
Thanks
Jon
#3
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Dear Jon,
Read the valve adjustment section this shows all you need to get access to the spark plugs. I even show you a diagram of the lead caps marked.
There are no gaskets apart form the spark plug copper gaskets that need replacing. Making sure you run the leads correctly and to the correct plug does not need a procedure. The hardest job can be getting the caps off the spark plugs. No 6 lower springs to mind.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4
Read the valve adjustment section this shows all you need to get access to the spark plugs. I even show you a diagram of the lead caps marked.
There are no gaskets apart form the spark plug copper gaskets that need replacing. Making sure you run the leads correctly and to the correct plug does not need a procedure. The hardest job can be getting the caps off the spark plugs. No 6 lower springs to mind.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4
#4
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Originally posted by Adrian
There are no gaskets apart form the spark plug copper gaskets that need replacing.
There are no gaskets apart form the spark plug copper gaskets that need replacing.
Do you have part #'s or a picture of these? I've never heard of spark plug copper gaskets (I have never personally changed my spark plugs either). The only copper gasket that rusts to pieces that I remember from that area is the gasket between the catalytic converter and the heat exchangers.
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#8
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Is there anything else I need to know before changing the plugs? Do the plugs need to be gapped or can they go into the car straight out of the box?
#10
Dear Jon
When I did my wires more than a year ago the most diffficult part I remember is trying to snake and secure the wires to the fan cowling which run under the intake manifold over to the right bank of cylinders. There are a couple of clips on the wires which are secured to the top of the fan cowling with small bolts/screws and with the intake manifold left on they were a pain to get at.
Bill
90C2
When I did my wires more than a year ago the most diffficult part I remember is trying to snake and secure the wires to the fan cowling which run under the intake manifold over to the right bank of cylinders. There are a couple of clips on the wires which are secured to the top of the fan cowling with small bolts/screws and with the intake manifold left on they were a pain to get at.
Bill
90C2
#11
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Jason,
I installed new plugs about about 2 yrs ago, used the proper Bosch plugs (FR5DTC?) with multiple electrodes. I think they come pre-gapped.
As I recall, the Porsche manual specified a 0.7mm gap, all the plugs came with a .8mm gap - I tried regapping one, got nowhere with it and just bolted them in with the .8mm gap. Car seems to run fine.
I could not get leverage to bend the electrodes and worried about damaging them... the electrodes are short and thick, they come to the side not the top of the center post, and the tips are curved to match the curve of the post.
-Dave
I installed new plugs about about 2 yrs ago, used the proper Bosch plugs (FR5DTC?) with multiple electrodes. I think they come pre-gapped.
As I recall, the Porsche manual specified a 0.7mm gap, all the plugs came with a .8mm gap - I tried regapping one, got nowhere with it and just bolted them in with the .8mm gap. Car seems to run fine.
I could not get leverage to bend the electrodes and worried about damaging them... the electrodes are short and thick, they come to the side not the top of the center post, and the tips are curved to match the curve of the post.
-Dave
#13
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Originally posted by jonfkaminsky
Okay shameless bump to the top. Doesn't anyone have a pet procedure they would be willing to share? Ya know, stuff to remove, gaskets, etc. you'll have to buy. I have the wires and the plugs and ready to go.
Thanks
Jon
Okay shameless bump to the top. Doesn't anyone have a pet procedure they would be willing to share? Ya know, stuff to remove, gaskets, etc. you'll have to buy. I have the wires and the plugs and ready to go.
Thanks
Jon
Spark Plug wires replacement
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hey thanks Jaime, great photo's. How are you getting all that access? Did you drop the exhaust? Drop the heat shields?
Also, I take it that you do not need to remove the valve covers to get the top plugs according to Adrian's post (no gaskets) so how are you getting to those plugs though the hole. Is there some special socket?
Thanks,
jon
Also, I take it that you do not need to remove the valve covers to get the top plugs according to Adrian's post (no gaskets) so how are you getting to those plugs though the hole. Is there some special socket?
Thanks,
jon
#15
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Originally posted by jonfkaminsky
hey thanks Jaime, great photo's. How are you getting all that access? Did you drop the exhaust? Drop the heat shields?
Also, I take it that you do not need to remove the valve covers to get the top plugs according to Adrian's post (no gaskets) so how are you getting to those plugs though the hole. Is there some special socket?
Thanks,
jon
hey thanks Jaime, great photo's. How are you getting all that access? Did you drop the exhaust? Drop the heat shields?
Also, I take it that you do not need to remove the valve covers to get the top plugs according to Adrian's post (no gaskets) so how are you getting to those plugs though the hole. Is there some special socket?
Thanks,
jon
You need to remove the tray and all the shields that are in the way. In my case I do not have the secondary muffler (passenger side in my car), so access to that side is good. You do have to remove the catalyc converter to access the other side (driver side in my case).
This is not a difficult task... just requires a lot of patience. Let me know if you have any other questions.