Modding without direction? A forest green journey; want your input
#16
Given your initial post the car is set up nice at this point. If your itching for a very noticeable mod I’d consider a re-gear first and keep it C4 for now. I did a regear on my old bmw 2002tii and it totally changed the character of the car. Careful with the reseal and re-gear path - in my case I’m out of the 964 for a full year..........
#17
Burning Brakes
Both of you guys need to join msr houston. We need more 964 there. Aka, i have yet to see even one.
As to building a track car- if you buy one that is already done, you'll likely save some money. But this likely won't happen as you already have your car.
A properly sorted C4 if the weight were equal, would mop the track with a C2 all day long. But I'm a C4 guy, so i am biased. I much prefer them. C2 are fun, but C4 are way more technical and fun to drive - and if you get out in the rain, a total blast...(yes the C2 half of the rennlist world now hates me)
Now getting to real stuff. Building a proper track car out of a street car and keeping it streetable is a real balancing act.
So here is where i would start. Take out as much weight as you can. Strip the interior and sound insulation and only add back what you need.
Reinforce the engine carrier and go with wevo blue pillow mounts.
Install a rollbar if you are going to drive hard. Install a cage if you are going to drive very hard.
Don't even think about driving without a cage if you are driving where there is close racing or passing is allowed.
Then go to suspension - much of which will come down to cost- but figure out what your budget is and sort the suspension.
Get the lightest wheels you can find, that can still handle hitting curbs hard at the track. (Or you will have bent wheels), but light weight here means a lot.
Stick with the oem brakes unless you are going 100% on the full suspension build.
Get a better set of brake pads that have much better initial bite and modulation at temp. Aka track pads.
Get VERY good track tires, and swap them for new after every few weekends at the track.
Then. If you still want more. Start to think about horsepower. But if you don't have a car worth adding horsepower to, don't think about it until the rear is done. And then think carefully, as it gets very expensive for not a lot of gain. While the engine is out, maybe think of lw flywheel and regearing the trans.
I know not a lot of that has any real detail...but that's the general direction i would give. Details can be taken care of along the way and really change dramatically based on time and money and what you look to achieve on the track and on the street and the balance btw the two.
As to building a track car- if you buy one that is already done, you'll likely save some money. But this likely won't happen as you already have your car.
A properly sorted C4 if the weight were equal, would mop the track with a C2 all day long. But I'm a C4 guy, so i am biased. I much prefer them. C2 are fun, but C4 are way more technical and fun to drive - and if you get out in the rain, a total blast...(yes the C2 half of the rennlist world now hates me)
Now getting to real stuff. Building a proper track car out of a street car and keeping it streetable is a real balancing act.
So here is where i would start. Take out as much weight as you can. Strip the interior and sound insulation and only add back what you need.
Reinforce the engine carrier and go with wevo blue pillow mounts.
Install a rollbar if you are going to drive hard. Install a cage if you are going to drive very hard.
Don't even think about driving without a cage if you are driving where there is close racing or passing is allowed.
Then go to suspension - much of which will come down to cost- but figure out what your budget is and sort the suspension.
Get the lightest wheels you can find, that can still handle hitting curbs hard at the track. (Or you will have bent wheels), but light weight here means a lot.
Stick with the oem brakes unless you are going 100% on the full suspension build.
Get a better set of brake pads that have much better initial bite and modulation at temp. Aka track pads.
Get VERY good track tires, and swap them for new after every few weekends at the track.
Then. If you still want more. Start to think about horsepower. But if you don't have a car worth adding horsepower to, don't think about it until the rear is done. And then think carefully, as it gets very expensive for not a lot of gain. While the engine is out, maybe think of lw flywheel and regearing the trans.
I know not a lot of that has any real detail...but that's the general direction i would give. Details can be taken care of along the way and really change dramatically based on time and money and what you look to achieve on the track and on the street and the balance btw the two.
- Ryan -
#18
Race Car
Scca at msr was a little light in terms of entries, but that was expected. Tracks down there are few and far between relative to the north east.
But- it was lots of fun.
On msr- relative to track clubs up here- it's so inexpensive to be a member there that to my mind it's a total no brainer. You guys are very lucky.
But- it was lots of fun.
On msr- relative to track clubs up here- it's so inexpensive to be a member there that to my mind it's a total no brainer. You guys are very lucky.
#19
Both of you guys need to join msr houston. We need more 964 there. Aka, i have yet to see even one.
As to building a track car- if you buy one that is already done, you'll likely save some money. But this likely won't happen as you already have your car.
A properly sorted C4 if the weight were equal, would mop the track with a C2 all day long. But I'm a C4 guy, so i am biased. I much prefer them. C2 are fun, but C4 are way more technical and fun to drive - and if you get out in the rain, a total blast...(yes the C2 half of the rennlist world now hates me)
Now getting to real stuff. Building a proper track car out of a street car and keeping it streetable is a real balancing act.
So here is where i would start. Take out as much weight as you can. Strip the interior and sound insulation and only add back what you need.
Reinforce the engine carrier and go with wevo blue pillow mounts.
Install a rollbar if you are going to drive hard. Install a cage if you are going to drive very hard.
Don't even think about driving without a cage if you are driving where there is close racing or passing is allowed.
Then go to suspension - much of which will come down to cost- but figure out what your budget is and sort the suspension.
Get the lightest wheels you can find, that can still handle hitting curbs hard at the track. (Or you will have bent wheels), but light weight here means a lot.
Stick with the oem brakes unless you are going 100% on the full suspension build.
Get a better set of brake pads that have much better initial bite and modulation at temp. Aka track pads.
Get VERY good track tires, and swap them for new after every few weekends at the track.
Then. If you still want more. Start to think about horsepower. But if you don't have a car worth adding horsepower to, don't think about it until the rear is done. And then think carefully, as it gets very expensive for not a lot of gain. While the engine is out, maybe think of lw flywheel and regearing the trans.
I know not a lot of that has any real detail...but that's the general direction i would give. Details can be taken care of along the way and really change dramatically based on time and money and what you look to achieve on the track and on the street and the balance btw the two.
As to building a track car- if you buy one that is already done, you'll likely save some money. But this likely won't happen as you already have your car.
A properly sorted C4 if the weight were equal, would mop the track with a C2 all day long. But I'm a C4 guy, so i am biased. I much prefer them. C2 are fun, but C4 are way more technical and fun to drive - and if you get out in the rain, a total blast...(yes the C2 half of the rennlist world now hates me)
Now getting to real stuff. Building a proper track car out of a street car and keeping it streetable is a real balancing act.
So here is where i would start. Take out as much weight as you can. Strip the interior and sound insulation and only add back what you need.
Reinforce the engine carrier and go with wevo blue pillow mounts.
Install a rollbar if you are going to drive hard. Install a cage if you are going to drive very hard.
Don't even think about driving without a cage if you are driving where there is close racing or passing is allowed.
Then go to suspension - much of which will come down to cost- but figure out what your budget is and sort the suspension.
Get the lightest wheels you can find, that can still handle hitting curbs hard at the track. (Or you will have bent wheels), but light weight here means a lot.
Stick with the oem brakes unless you are going 100% on the full suspension build.
Get a better set of brake pads that have much better initial bite and modulation at temp. Aka track pads.
Get VERY good track tires, and swap them for new after every few weekends at the track.
Then. If you still want more. Start to think about horsepower. But if you don't have a car worth adding horsepower to, don't think about it until the rear is done. And then think carefully, as it gets very expensive for not a lot of gain. While the engine is out, maybe think of lw flywheel and regearing the trans.
I know not a lot of that has any real detail...but that's the general direction i would give. Details can be taken care of along the way and really change dramatically based on time and money and what you look to achieve on the track and on the street and the balance btw the two.
I've done the majority of what you recommended; I'm the guy in Houston you helped out re-doing the suspension bushings a few months ago.
Reinforcing the engine carrier is a great idea, and when I have the engine/trans out for the LWFW that would be a perfect time to make that happen.
Speaking of getting out to MSR, here's the last track day they had and some laps I was putting in. A buddy had his '74 quasi-RS clone out there and we were running ~2:53 back and forth, he was lighter but I had more power. It was a good time, unfortunately the GoPro died before I could record that session.
#20
Burning Brakes
I'm at MSR for nearly every PCA DE; I really should expand outside of that, but between COTA DEs and racing as much as I can in WRL/Lemons/Champ it limits funds and time availability.
I've done the majority of what you recommended; I'm the guy in Houston you helped out re-doing the suspension bushings a few months ago.
Reinforcing the engine carrier is a great idea, and when I have the engine/trans out for the LWFW that would be a perfect time to make that happen.
Speaking of getting out to MSR, here's the last track day they had and some laps I was putting in. A buddy had his '74 quasi-RS clone out there and we were running ~2:53 back and forth, he was lighter but I had more power. It was a good time, unfortunately the GoPro died before I could record that session.
https://youtu.be/GO4cYGCMW2w
I've done the majority of what you recommended; I'm the guy in Houston you helped out re-doing the suspension bushings a few months ago.
Reinforcing the engine carrier is a great idea, and when I have the engine/trans out for the LWFW that would be a perfect time to make that happen.
Speaking of getting out to MSR, here's the last track day they had and some laps I was putting in. A buddy had his '74 quasi-RS clone out there and we were running ~2:53 back and forth, he was lighter but I had more power. It was a good time, unfortunately the GoPro died before I could record that session.
https://youtu.be/GO4cYGCMW2w
Scca at msr was a little light in terms of entries, but that was expected. Tracks down there are few and far between relative to the north east.
But- it was lots of fun.
On msr- relative to track clubs up here- it's so inexpensive to be a member there that to my mind it's a total no brainer. You guys are very lucky.
But- it was lots of fun.
On msr- relative to track clubs up here- it's so inexpensive to be a member there that to my mind it's a total no brainer. You guys are very lucky.
#21
Give me a call/shoot me a text if you want more insight into DEs or Autocross.
The following users liked this post:
964Luftballoon (06-22-2019)
#22
Rennlist Member
Definitely worth going through. Totally dialed in street racer!
Love Daffy!
- mono ball everything
- rs style tie rods
- transmission mount upgrade
- Lightweight/small battery (ATX 30)
- recaro pp
- steering rack brace
- keep ac (too extreme to remove)
- if you want to spend $$, I read many times that regearing is the best mode, “it’s like 50 hp”
The following 2 users liked this post by 911Jetta:
964Luftballoon (06-23-2019),
9SIX4-C4 (06-29-2019)