altarchsa

That's not a real engine is it? Throw a couple of quarts of oil and a bucket of dirt at it and I might recognize it as a 964 engine!

Agree that heat shields and cat have to come off. Your pics are very appreciated I'm sure. It's pretty obvious once you get under there.

crg53

The engine tin in question is the black piece of metal above the nice red valve cover (in the picture above). You take them off both sides and you can do all the plugs from the bottom, way easier; also good practice for when you want to set the valve clearance.

PS. Getting very close to my 911th post.

Silvertarga

Ill give that a try
Yes that was the ticket, next moron who calls my Pcar a glorified VW is gonna get blasted!
Thanks I'll try to remove the tin, cant get the Cat or O2 sensor off so I am gonna have to put it back together and get it to a shop for the 1/2/3 bottom plugs and 02 sensor..

I really think that the instructions for Spark Plug Wire change should start as follows

1. DROP ENGINE



If I had done that I would have been done already!!

c2dweller

When replacing the leads on the top bank of cylinders 4,5 & 6 is it necessary to remove the inlet manifold?

I had a look last night and it very tight with a few pipes getting in the way...

Silvertarga

I am not the "Pro from Dover" on this but having just completed the job it is not necessary to remove the manifold, just takes a bit of time to free the cables from their moorings (I think it was an 8mm wrench) and feed them through, there was a bracket holding a fitting that I removed to run one of the wires under (and this was under the air box which can also be removed )

It also helps immensely to remove the A/C compressor (dont need to disconnect it, it will swing out of the way when freed from its mount

dfinnegan

I recently did this, as well. I had the alternator out and believe that helped. Still, it's a long, slow job to work those hold-downs free with the engine in place. I did manage to route all of the wires without touching the AC compressor. Note that I did have to remove the exhaust and the shields in order to re-install the #6 upper plug wire lead onto the plug. I just couldn't get the leverage to get it seated from above. And, I think I would have dropped the exhaust and shields in order to run the lower wires any way.

Patience.

Cheers

Silvertarga

Ahh, I forgot about the exhaust on that side as I am running a Fabspeed and that was removed long ago...One thing that I would definitely buy were I to do this again is one of those ratcheting flat wrenches, would have made it easier to remove the screws holding the plug wire retaining clips !!

Definitely remove the shield to get to the top 4/5/6 from the bottom, I was stuck there until I asked for help here (and a magnetic socket can save you a few hours of fishing if you drop a plug!)

As far as seating #6 connector if you managed to get the plug out and reinstalled without all the disassembly a piece of 2X4 and a crow bar will get the connector seated


The job was not so bad, I was not really pressed to finish (even though the car was down for a few of the first "Targa Weather days' we had here...most of the time was spent cleaning and painting everything!!

Was able to replace Oil Return tubes, clean all electrical connections,new belts, oil tank hoses, MAF etc, everything I did would have cost a small fortune and I now know my car much better than I did at the start!

Now all I need is for my hands to heal from all the small cuts. As someone else said it does make you appreciate what a shop charges to do this however I know I would spend near the same amount of time checking and correcting what someone else did so I did it myself

Vandit

Sorry to bump an old thread!

The clip visible in this picture, that fastens to the top of the timing chain housing, is that just clipped onto the top of the housing or are there fasteners that need to be removed to remove the clip?

Vandit

^Still looking for an answer.

Silvertarga

Mine is not clipped to anything it is magically suspended by the wires thusly:

Vandit

To answer the question, the bracket should plug into the top of the cam chain housing with two points. I managed to remove mine by pulling it upward but broke 1 of the 2 points. I think I can still reuse it w/ the 1 working point.

In case you need to replace it, the bottom half that will probably break like mine is part # 911.602.325.00



The top part, which can also be used in pairs for wire guides throughout the ignition cable set is part # 928.602.323.00