My first Engine Drop
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
My first Engine Drop
My first engine drop. Objective is a new clutch, rear main seal, new sound pad, and who knows while it is out.
Lots of DIYs on engine drops, manual, & Adrian book cover it well. Also having renlister John Mc throw in some tips. 8 hours in total, plus lunch
The only part I was confused on was removing the accelerator cable. I know some do it from the engine, but I ended up doing from behind the pedal board. Not well documented. See pic. Also removing the interaxle differential lock took a while to figure out - pulling out the lock key is weird. Otherwise it is follow the instructions.
Cable behind the pedal board.
The scissor table made the drop very easy. And a lift. I can’t imagine doing this with jacks only!!
Lots of DIYs on engine drops, manual, & Adrian book cover it well. Also having renlister John Mc throw in some tips. 8 hours in total, plus lunch
The only part I was confused on was removing the accelerator cable. I know some do it from the engine, but I ended up doing from behind the pedal board. Not well documented. See pic. Also removing the interaxle differential lock took a while to figure out - pulling out the lock key is weird. Otherwise it is follow the instructions.
Cable behind the pedal board.
The scissor table made the drop very easy. And a lift. I can’t imagine doing this with jacks only!!
#2
Nice work spokes! Where did you get the protective cover on the rear of the car?
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
S
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
And split.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The clutch disc (Rubber Centered) looks like it is NLA (see pic). Anyone else updated a ‘89 C4 clutch to later parts? Any other issues?
#6
I have the newer clutch disc and pressure plate mated to 89 single mass flywheel. No issues.
Got this on wholesaler closeout 4 years ago for cheap, still available BTW.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...WHaX%2FkrLcfzr
Thanks!
Andrew
Got this on wholesaler closeout 4 years ago for cheap, still available BTW.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...WHaX%2FkrLcfzr
Thanks!
Andrew
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have the newer clutch disc and pressure plate mated to 89 single mass flywheel. No issues.
Got this on wholesaler closeout 4 years ago for cheap, still available BTW.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...WHaX%2FkrLcfzr
Thanks!
Andrew
Got this on wholesaler closeout 4 years ago for cheap, still available BTW.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...WHaX%2FkrLcfzr
Thanks!
Andrew
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#8
Fl. bearing: 931.102.111.02
Clutch: Varies depending on your preference (my clutch is organic, non rigid) SACHS 881864 001098
Guide Tube: 950.116.813.06
Pressure plate: 950.116.023.03 (SACHS 3082 175 232)
Release bearing: 950.116.080.08 (SACHS 3151 000 464)
Follow this link for exact 964 month of production and fitting SACHS parts
http://tecapp-portal.tecalliance.net...h%252F%20Parts
Don't forget about the Clutch control shaft needle bearing bits and bushes.
Thanks!
Andrew
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Flywheel - 964.102.239.00
Fl. bearing: 931.102.111.02
Clutch: Varies depending on your preference (my clutch is organic, non rigid) SACHS 881864 001098
Guide Tube: 950.116.813.06
Pressure plate: 950.116.023.03 (SACHS 3082 175 232)
Release bearing: 950.116.080.08 (SACHS 3151 000 464)
Follow this link for exact 964 month of production and fitting SACHS parts
http://tecapp-portal.tecalliance.net...h%252F%20Parts
Don't forget about the Clutch control shaft needle bearing bits and bushes.
Thanks!
Andrew
Fl. bearing: 931.102.111.02
Clutch: Varies depending on your preference (my clutch is organic, non rigid) SACHS 881864 001098
Guide Tube: 950.116.813.06
Pressure plate: 950.116.023.03 (SACHS 3082 175 232)
Release bearing: 950.116.080.08 (SACHS 3151 000 464)
Follow this link for exact 964 month of production and fitting SACHS parts
http://tecapp-portal.tecalliance.net...h%252F%20Parts
Don't forget about the Clutch control shaft needle bearing bits and bushes.
Thanks!
Andrew
S
#10
Race Car
While you are doing this job, it would be a good idea to take the nose off the transaxle and pull the planetary gear and have the pins welded in place. It's not a hard job, and will save you huge money if your pins were to otherwise work themselves loose over time...which causes a big problem.
Don't want to derail you. Looking forward to seeing more of the clutch job...
Don't want to derail you. Looking forward to seeing more of the clutch job...
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
While you are doing this job, it would be a good idea to take the nose off the transaxle and pull the planetary gear and have the pins welded in place. It's not a hard job, and will save you huge money if your pins were to otherwise work themselves loose over time...which causes a big problem.
Don't want to derail you. Looking forward to seeing more of the clutch job...
Don't want to derail you. Looking forward to seeing more of the clutch job...
#12
Race Car
Uh oh. Lists are dangerous. When i pulled my motor for the top end rebuild...it wasn't until much later, that i realized the bulk of my cost wasn't the top end rebuild...lol.
That said, i didn't know back then about the planetary gear issue. And really wish i had that done, just for peace of mind.
That said, i didn't know back then about the planetary gear issue. And really wish i had that done, just for peace of mind.
#13
#14
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#15
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Thread Starter
Few taps with a drift and the starter ring comes free...