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My car is a nearly 200K mile Minnesota car and has the oxidation and rust to prove it. I’m replacing my trailing arm and spring plate bushings but ran into an issue getting the eccentric bolt removed. I ended up having to cut the head off and slide the eccentric nut off.
My question is: is the below bolt threaded in (in which case I can drill it out/use an easy out), or is it cast into the trailing arm, in which case the extraction/replacement becomes much more difficult.
I would assume it’s just screwed in and oxidized to a ridiculous degree, but thought I’d ask before I went off the deep end.
Torque spec on that bolt is pretty low, 40lbs? 38? So your helicoil should be fine there.
I'm amazed at how many places on these cars that experience salt, water, and heat- how much or rather how well, steel and aluminum react together. There are tricks to removing these bolts that become one w the aluminum - so if you run into more, chime in!
Torque spec on that bolt is pretty low, 40lbs? 38? So your helicoil should be fine there.
I'm amazed at how many places on these cars that experience salt, water, and heat- how much or rather how well, steel and aluminum react together. There are tricks to removing these bolts that become one w the aluminum - so if you run into more, chime in!
I’m amazed at how well they bond together. It was effectively welded in (especially after 30 years). I’m unable to get the upper spring plate bolt out, will probably have to get it up on a lift so I can get the mother of all breaker bars on there.
Realistically I’ll probably have to pull the engine so I can get to the head of that bolt and will most likely have to drill that one out, as well.
Do not drill that one out. That won't be seized the same way.
You need a special tool to get to those. So you don't need to drop the motor, at all...There is a 12mm allen socket that is effectively a 1" nut with an Allen stud on one side. You get that in there and use a closed end extension on a long breaker bar and out it will come.
I don't have the pics on my phone, but it's in the suspension madness thread - with pics of the special socket. I think lisle makes the sockets now...
Do not drill that one out. That won't be seized the same way.
You need a special tool to get to those. So you don't need to drop the motor, at all...There is a 12mm allen socket that is effectively a 1" nut with an Allen stud on one side. You get that in there and use a closed end extension on a long breaker bar and out it will don't have the pics on my phone, but it's in the suspension madness thread - with pics of the special socket. I think lisle makes the sockets now...
After reading the thread and learning about the tool I took a 12mm impact Allen, cut it down to get it in there with a wrench on it and ended up with this:
Any advise would be greatly appreciated! I had a 2’ breaker bar on there and it didn’t budge, I tried using my floor jack to get some extra oomf and it just bent my wrench.
Is this the bolt you are trying to extract? You need a stubby 12mm allen socket. A breaker bar. My car is up on a scissor lift. This gives you some more room to get the breaker bar in and leverage.
03-10-2019, 03:02 PM
Trailing arm/spring plate bolt question
