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airbag and seat belt lights on

 
Old 10-25-2018, 02:05 PM
  #16  
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Thanks. Buzz has a two month waiting list and you only get on it by sending in your guages. I don't know if I can handle two months without guages.
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Old 10-25-2018, 02:23 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BLACK3.2 View Post
Thanks. Buzz has a two month waiting list and you only get on it by sending in your guages. I don't know if I can handle two months without guages.
Sorry to hear that, I did mine during the rainy season when I wasn't driving much. His lead time might have been a little shorter at that time.
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Old 10-25-2018, 02:28 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Ralph3. View Post
Sorry to hear that, I did mine during the rainy season when I wasn't driving much. His lead time might have been a little shorter at that time.
Apparently, some cars that he did the guages on won awards at Pebble Beach, and he's been inundated with business. Good that good people are getting recognized. That's the way it's supposed to work. I think the uptick in his business may last until if/when he staffs up. Rainy season is wrenching season, after all.
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Old 10-25-2018, 02:38 PM
  #19  
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I know he restored a Tucker gauge cluster for a car that Rob Ida was working on.
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Old 10-25-2018, 10:09 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by rkwfxd View Post
A known problem on these cars is the connections that control the warning lights around the clock crack and the airbag and seatbelt lights come on. Happened to me. I had it reset a couple of times but within a day or so the lights came back on. Pulled the clock, sent it in for R&R, got it back, reinstalled and no more warning lights. If I had to bet money I would bet that the clock / gage is your problem. Good luck.
Thanks rkwfxd! How difficult is it to take the clock out ? Any tips or tutorial available? Iíve never done it and I fear Ivan break something else... during the time the clock was it for repair did you happen to drive your car or it is not possible? Sorry for the dumb question! Thanks!
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Old 10-25-2018, 10:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by rkwfxd View Post
I used North Hollywood Speedometer in North Hollywood California. Told them the problem and that I wanted all the connections checked/repaired, all warning light bulbs replaced and I wanted the gauge to look new when I got it back. They said it would be about a 3-4 day turn around. I sent it to them on Monday. They confirmed that they had it on Tuesday (they are local to me). They called with a full estimate on Wednesday ($250-$300 or so). Had it in my hand and then in the car on Thursday.
they light lo the clock came we halogen or you upgraded to led?
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Old 10-26-2018, 12:18 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Sucram View Post

Thanks rkwfxd! How difficult is it to take the clock out ? Any tips or tutorial available? I’ve never done it and I fear Ivan break something else... during the time the clock was it for repair did you happen to drive your car or it is not possible? Sorry for the dumb question! Thanks!
Originally Posted by Sucram View Post

they light lo the clock came we halogen or you upgraded to led?
Grab the clock and pull. Should come right out. At most you might need a putty knife or credit card to slide under the rubber ring to get it started. It is not bolted in at all, just pulls out. Once out, there are two plugs in the back. IIRC remove the small one first then the large one. Done. I had all the warning lights replaced with new factory warning bulbs. I did not go to LED or anything fancy. I think there are like 13 of them or so. Install is just the reverse. Simple.

I did my fuel gauge at the same time. I did not drive the car. I believe I probably could have but like I said, mine was only down for four days.
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Old 10-26-2018, 12:41 PM
  #23  
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I fixed this by following David Ream's procedure for Fixing Airbag Warning Light and seatbelt Warning Light Gremlin originally published on porsche964.co.uk/technical/clock.htm (This site is no longer active)

It is quite easy and requires resoldering some solder joints on the clock circuit board.
I would be happy to mail the procedure to anybody that is interested. It is 5 pages - any better way to post the info?
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Old 10-26-2018, 01:21 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by perlfather View Post
(This site is no longer active)
HERE you go.

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Old 10-27-2018, 02:18 PM
  #25  
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Thanks you everyone for all your tips and advice! Really really helpful!!

I am not sure I can do that, it looks like simple but I donít have that skill set to be accomplished as a DIY unfortunately for me.

One question - what about take out the two lights / bulbs (Airbag and seat belt)? Has someone done this and what the consequence would be, if any?

Also from where do you start counting bulbs to know exactly that you are taking out these two?
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Old 10-27-2018, 02:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Sucram View Post
Thanks you everyone for all your tips and advice! Really really helpful!!

I am not sure I can do that, it looks like simple but I donít have that skill set to be accomplished as a DIY unfortunately for me.

One question - what about take out the two lights / bulbs (Airbag and seat belt)? Has someone done this and what the consequence would be, if any?

Also from where do you start counting bulbs to know exactly that you are taking out these two?
just as a short term plan before addressing it completely in a few months. Any thoughts?
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Old 10-27-2018, 07:58 PM
  #27  
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Yeah I saw that thread about fixing it myself. I did a lot of RC racing years ago and have a ton of soldering equipment and experience but decided to let a professional do it.

Yep you can probably pull the clock and remove those bulbs and forget about it. I believe that will also disable the airbags as well - not sure on that but it seems EVERYTHING runs through the clock on these cars.

You can also buy a airbag disable plug thing from Pelican Parts for about $30. It plugs in under a panel on the passenger side of the tunnel.

You could just live with the glowing lights.

You could put a small piece of black electrical tape over them so they are not as noticeable.

OR, you could pull the clock, send it in and have it properly fixed for the next 20-30 years of service for $250-$300. Pretty much the cheapest and easiest fix of ANYTHING on these cars.
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Old 10-28-2018, 05:19 PM
  #28  
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Lots of talk about the clock. Have your codes turned off first and see if they come back. It still could have been a momentary voltage fluctuation that caused the code.
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Old 11-10-2018, 05:24 PM
  #29  
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Thanks Black3.2 - I am with you! I will have codes cleared once and see what happens. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks for all your help and advice!! Amazing community of RLs here!! Great people and very knowledgeable !!
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Old 11-25-2018, 04:24 PM
  #30  
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Hi there! Quick update from my end on where I stand with this issue. I went to my local shop and got all codes cleared. I was the happiest person on earth ...but my happiness latest only 15min and a couple of revs up to 5000 rpm....after one strong acceleration lights popped up again ...!!!!

I am am planning to get them reset again and clean seatbelt and below the seat with electrical contact cleaner spray and see what happens...any idea why the issue popped up again under heavy acceleration? Whatís the cause - effect and the rationale behind...? Your are thoughts are as always more than welcome!!! Thanks in advance
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