johnsopa

So I have the symptoms that point to rusty/dry main shaft splines -- it's hard to downshift and pull the car out of gear when braking. Heel/toe helps and waiting a few secs helps.

I replace the master and slave cylinders and also the slave rubber supply line. Bled everything several times. No improvement.

While replacing the slave, I realized that there are a few small inspection ports.

Do you think it would be possible to get a flexible borescope in along with a flexible tube to squirt some grease on any exposed part of the main shaft? Maybe nothing is exposed when it's all assembled, but I thought I would ask.

The clutch only has about 15,000 miles on it but it is about 15 years old. I was planning to drop the engine this winter anyway to seal some leaks (and maybe do a 3.8).

Thought I could do something to try and get me through the next couple of months.

Thanks.

John

Rocket Rob

The splines where the clutch touches the shaft are over an inch long, even if you can get grease onto the exposed areas, it won't be under the parts that the clutch is sitting. I would recommend dropping the engine/tranny and do it right. While you have it out, also inspect your throw out arm bearings.

Achtung964

My mech did it by dropping the transmission only.

johnsopa

I talked to a 964 guy at the track yesterday and he said he replaces his clutch without dropping the engine. He slides the transmission forward. He made it sound like he doesn't even drop the trans but I might have misunderstood him.

Do you think it's possible to remove the clutch without fully dropping the trans?

I have a lift at home so I'm going to try this. Need to look for something like this first, I guess.

Transmission Jack

johnsopa

This seems to be almost a unicorn! I have found several mentions of people swapping clutches by dropping only the transmission but noone has provided visual proof nor a DIY. LOL.

I just ordered a flexible borescope. I think I can get a good look inside via the slave cylinder access port. If I can see splines, then I'm going to try and get some Optimoly onto them and work the clutch in a out a bit, just to see if I can work some of the grease between the input shaft and clutch splines.

This issue just started a month or two ago, so I'm thinking that a little bit of lube getting in there will hold me over until the winter when I planned to drop the engine anyway.

I'll check back with hopefully good results later this week.

johnsopa

OK, I used the borescope tonight and, probably as you guys expected, the splines are not exposed.

So, I'm going to try sliding the transmission forward about an inch to get some grease on the splines -- ideally without removing anything (other than half-shafts, of course).

Question regarding the fork shaft... If I do NOT remove the fork shaft, will I be able to slide the transmission forward a bit?

If I have to remove the fork shaft to slide the trans forward a bit, will I simply be able to insert the fork shaft back in or will the fork have dropped such that I'll have to completely drop the trans to re-position it and re-insert the fork shaft?

Thanks!

Spyerx

AOW162435

johnsopa

Hi Andreas. Yes, I have your thread bookmarked.

Do you think I can pull the transmission forward an inch or so without removing the fork shaft?

Or will the fork be stuck behind the throw out bearing?