BUYER BEWARE- BLACK 1990 C2 COUPE
#106
Irrespective of whether this is the car Lorenzoh is discussing or not. What do we know about the car currently for sale?
The dyno sheet is a joke nobody in their right mind could think that this engine puts out 900+ ft pounds of torque. If the engine building shop did the dyno pull it concerns me.
The dyno sheet is a joke nobody in their right mind could think that this engine puts out 900+ ft pounds of torque. If the engine building shop did the dyno pull it concerns me.
The paint appears to be very clean in some shots and not in others.
There are signs of tape lines around the engine compartment and door jamb so at a min we can assume the left rear quarter has been painted.
Rear bumper has been painted to accommodate the twin exhaust.
Owner states clear film on hood but it would need to have been there since day one to have so few rock chips. Most likely paintwork there as well. (needs further investigation)
There are signs of tape lines around the engine compartment and door jamb so at a min we can assume the left rear quarter has been painted.
Rear bumper has been painted to accommodate the twin exhaust.
Owner states clear film on hood but it would need to have been there since day one to have so few rock chips. Most likely paintwork there as well. (needs further investigation)
After driving the car I can tell you the clutch pedal took an enormous amount of effort to engage. Definitely not an easy car to maneuver at low speeds at least IMO.
#107
Rennlist Member
^^^
Clearly anyone bidding has read both BaT and here and will make their own conclusions. I guess we see where this ends up but no doubt someone will buy this car.
I have been in-between far too many cases like this and most of the time neither party is in the right. Mostly emotion takes over and people get irrational on one end the other or both. Clearly the point was made and he has done some things like post paint thickness readings without submitting pictures. A huge mistake and makes me question his motivation however is the car a bad car?
Clearly anyone bidding has read both BaT and here and will make their own conclusions. I guess we see where this ends up but no doubt someone will buy this car.
I have been in-between far too many cases like this and most of the time neither party is in the right. Mostly emotion takes over and people get irrational on one end the other or both. Clearly the point was made and he has done some things like post paint thickness readings without submitting pictures. A huge mistake and makes me question his motivation however is the car a bad car?
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BLACK3.2 (03-09-2020)
#108
^^^
Clearly anyone bidding has read both BaT and here and will make their own conclusions. I guess we see where this ends up but no doubt someone will buy this car.
I have been in-between far too many cases like this and most of the time neither party is in the right. Mostly emotion takes over and people get irrational on one end the other or both. Clearly the point was made and he has done some things like post paint thickness readings without submitting pictures. A huge mistake and makes me question his motivation however is the car a bad car?
Clearly anyone bidding has read both BaT and here and will make their own conclusions. I guess we see where this ends up but no doubt someone will buy this car.
I have been in-between far too many cases like this and most of the time neither party is in the right. Mostly emotion takes over and people get irrational on one end the other or both. Clearly the point was made and he has done some things like post paint thickness readings without submitting pictures. A huge mistake and makes me question his motivation however is the car a bad car?
#109
Rennlist Member
I agree however there have been some cars sold on BaT where the sellers were downright liars and the cars were bad cars in need of 10's of thousands in repairs. So if it isn't a bad car we all have had to deal with bad sellers at one point. I had closed deal on a 928GTS years ago and as I waited three days for wire transfer info after sending a deposit, I got a response telling me the car had sold and here is your money back. WTF!! But Life goes on.
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9SIX4-C4 (06-29-2019)
#110
Knowing that you can never truly beat a dead horse too much.... It’s back...
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...11-carrera-34/
And so are the beatings.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...11-carrera-34/
And so are the beatings.
#111
Knowing that you can never truly beat a dead horse too much.... It’s back...
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...11-carrera-34/
And so are the beatings.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...11-carrera-34/
And so are the beatings.
I’ll reiterate what I’ve said before. I have/had no issue with the car. Especially since it would seem that he’s fixed the rust that was previously undisclosed. Not sure why when repainting the cowl he wouldn’t also do the very oxidized roof...seems he took the cheap fix rather than a more comprehensive one. The motor was really strong, felt like a 300hp car and pulled REALLY hard. If you can get your head around the cosmetics, especially the poor interior redo/fitment...then this would be a great daily....although the clutch is VERY heavy and is more like an on/off switch, engagement is immediate.
I’ll limit any further comment about the seller personally given my previous remarks. Take whatever he says with a huge grain of salt.
for the right buyer this will be an excellent car, but get it checked out, and DONT get it checked out at autometrics. Find someone else in or around Charlestown.
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Tarek307 (03-05-2020)
#112
Saw it this morning and thought about reviving this thread but figured someone else would and save me the heat.
I’ll reiterate what I’ve said before. I have/had no issue with the car. Especially since it would seem that he’s fixed the rust that was previously undisclosed. Not sure why when repainting the cowl he wouldn’t also do the very oxidized roof...seems he took the cheap fix rather than a more comprehensive one. The motor was really strong, felt like a 300hp car and pulled REALLY hard. If you can get your head around the cosmetics, especially the poor interior redo/fitment...then this would be a great daily....although the clutch is VERY heavy and is more like an on/off switch, engagement is immediate.
I’ll limit any further comment about the seller personally given my previous remarks. Take whatever he says with a huge grain of salt.
for the right buyer this will be an excellent car, but get it checked out, and DONT get it checked out at autometrics. Find someone else in or around Charlestown.
I’ll reiterate what I’ve said before. I have/had no issue with the car. Especially since it would seem that he’s fixed the rust that was previously undisclosed. Not sure why when repainting the cowl he wouldn’t also do the very oxidized roof...seems he took the cheap fix rather than a more comprehensive one. The motor was really strong, felt like a 300hp car and pulled REALLY hard. If you can get your head around the cosmetics, especially the poor interior redo/fitment...then this would be a great daily....although the clutch is VERY heavy and is more like an on/off switch, engagement is immediate.
I’ll limit any further comment about the seller personally given my previous remarks. Take whatever he says with a huge grain of salt.
for the right buyer this will be an excellent car, but get it checked out, and DONT get it checked out at autometrics. Find someone else in or around Charlestown.
#113
Banned
Current high bidder here -- I appreciate the thread. I'm looking for a psuedo-project and would be happy to pick this one up for the right price. It's not quite kosher to talk reserve on the BAT comments, so I'll say it here: I suspect that for BAT to allow him to re-list after RNM, the reserve is likely no more than the high bid on the previous auction: ~49k. That seems like a fair upper-limit given the condition.
#115
Oh you misunderstand -- I'm looking to buy a car not a human.
I agree, $49k+BAT is on the high side. I'd be totally happy paying my current bid of $42k+BAT, but we'll see.
I wouldn't be interested in a clean, stock C2 for any more than about $45k. That probably sounds insane so let me explain:
1. I intend reupholster the entire interior, add a half cage, and do a full repaint with a wide-body conversion. Clean paint, body panels, and major interior bits are worthless to me.
2. A recent top-end rebuild is worth around $10k to me. This car had one done in the mid 2000's around 50k miles, so I value that around $5k since it's probably another 50k/10years until needing another.
3. The fabspeed headers/exhaust, RS flywheel, and race cams are all mods I would do myself, which I value at around $5k.
4. I don't like any of the stock 964 Carrera wheels -- the refinished imitation RSA wheels are worth $1-$2k to me.
5. The recent clutch, head gaskets, ignition service, starter, and other misc bits from 2012-2016 have immediate value to me as well -- I'll value this somewhere between $4-$8k depending on the quality of the work.
So I'll come out way ahead of either 1) buying a mechanically rough 964 and fixing it up or 2) paying a ~$10k premium for a clean, stock 964 only to destroy it with mods and track time.
Joe
I agree, $49k+BAT is on the high side. I'd be totally happy paying my current bid of $42k+BAT, but we'll see.
1. I intend reupholster the entire interior, add a half cage, and do a full repaint with a wide-body conversion. Clean paint, body panels, and major interior bits are worthless to me.
2. A recent top-end rebuild is worth around $10k to me. This car had one done in the mid 2000's around 50k miles, so I value that around $5k since it's probably another 50k/10years until needing another.
3. The fabspeed headers/exhaust, RS flywheel, and race cams are all mods I would do myself, which I value at around $5k.
4. I don't like any of the stock 964 Carrera wheels -- the refinished imitation RSA wheels are worth $1-$2k to me.
5. The recent clutch, head gaskets, ignition service, starter, and other misc bits from 2012-2016 have immediate value to me as well -- I'll value this somewhere between $4-$8k depending on the quality of the work.
So I'll come out way ahead of either 1) buying a mechanically rough 964 and fixing it up or 2) paying a ~$10k premium for a clean, stock 964 only to destroy it with mods and track time.
Joe
#117
#118
Rennlist Member
Oh you misunderstand -- I'm looking to buy a car not a human.
I agree, $49k+BAT is on the high side. I'd be totally happy paying my current bid of $42k+BAT, but we'll see.
I wouldn't be interested in a clean, stock C2 for any more than about $45k. That probably sounds insane so let me explain:
1. I intend reupholster the entire interior, add a half cage, and do a full repaint with a wide-body conversion. Clean paint, body panels, and major interior bits are worthless to me.
2. A recent top-end rebuild is worth around $10k to me. This car had one done in the mid 2000's around 50k miles, so I value that around $5k since it's probably another 50k/10years until needing another.
3. The fabspeed headers/exhaust, RS flywheel, and race cams are all mods I would do myself, which I value at around $5k.
4. I don't like any of the stock 964 Carrera wheels -- the refinished imitation RSA wheels are worth $1-$2k to me.
5. The recent clutch, head gaskets, ignition service, starter, and other misc bits from 2012-2016 have immediate value to me as well -- I'll value this somewhere between $4-$8k depending on the quality of the work.
So I'll come out way ahead of either 1) buying a mechanically rough 964 and fixing it up or 2) paying a ~$10k premium for a clean, stock 964 only to destroy it with mods and track time.
Joe
I agree, $49k+BAT is on the high side. I'd be totally happy paying my current bid of $42k+BAT, but we'll see.
I wouldn't be interested in a clean, stock C2 for any more than about $45k. That probably sounds insane so let me explain:
1. I intend reupholster the entire interior, add a half cage, and do a full repaint with a wide-body conversion. Clean paint, body panels, and major interior bits are worthless to me.
2. A recent top-end rebuild is worth around $10k to me. This car had one done in the mid 2000's around 50k miles, so I value that around $5k since it's probably another 50k/10years until needing another.
3. The fabspeed headers/exhaust, RS flywheel, and race cams are all mods I would do myself, which I value at around $5k.
4. I don't like any of the stock 964 Carrera wheels -- the refinished imitation RSA wheels are worth $1-$2k to me.
5. The recent clutch, head gaskets, ignition service, starter, and other misc bits from 2012-2016 have immediate value to me as well -- I'll value this somewhere between $4-$8k depending on the quality of the work.
So I'll come out way ahead of either 1) buying a mechanically rough 964 and fixing it up or 2) paying a ~$10k premium for a clean, stock 964 only to destroy it with mods and track time.
Joe
#120
Rennlist Member
Not sure what the obsession is with paintwork: I have my hood painted every 5 years or it looks like my car was shot with a BB gun. You guys with 100k mile cars: THEY ARE NOT COLLECTORS CARS.
If you are a buyer I would pay more attention to the mechanics. Paint meters? You must be joking: who cares? Try and find a car with original paint, there aren't any! New paint 12k at the best there is, 5k anywhere else and I hope you have cataracts not to see the difference. 100k mile cars have been painted, if you don't think so, I have a bridge for sale.
Buy a car with a crap motor and it is 25k. Anywhere for less else is lying to you and we will relish reading about it here. You will get 10k estimates and it will be 25k anyway, we will laugh at your misfortune and encourage you to "go all the way".
If you are buying for profit, don't buy a 964, this is the Amazon/Apple?Google of Porsches, take your paint meter and well, cram it. Upside is already in. Buy a 996.
Almost any 964 for sale, plan on spending money. If you don't want to drive 2500 miles a year at LEAST, start a separate thread for "Its a Porsche, and I know nothing". You guys can have a paint meter party.
Check for collision damage, no records, missing vins, and large oil puddles. Anything else is "Congratulations, you bought a Porsche".
PS Don't post without photos, no one gives a crap if there isn't a photo.
If you are a buyer I would pay more attention to the mechanics. Paint meters? You must be joking: who cares? Try and find a car with original paint, there aren't any! New paint 12k at the best there is, 5k anywhere else and I hope you have cataracts not to see the difference. 100k mile cars have been painted, if you don't think so, I have a bridge for sale.
Buy a car with a crap motor and it is 25k. Anywhere for less else is lying to you and we will relish reading about it here. You will get 10k estimates and it will be 25k anyway, we will laugh at your misfortune and encourage you to "go all the way".
If you are buying for profit, don't buy a 964, this is the Amazon/Apple?Google of Porsches, take your paint meter and well, cram it. Upside is already in. Buy a 996.
Almost any 964 for sale, plan on spending money. If you don't want to drive 2500 miles a year at LEAST, start a separate thread for "Its a Porsche, and I know nothing". You guys can have a paint meter party.
Check for collision damage, no records, missing vins, and large oil puddles. Anything else is "Congratulations, you bought a Porsche".
PS Don't post without photos, no one gives a crap if there isn't a photo.
Just a word of caution from someone who looks and has dealt with many sellers and buyers of these cars. I also deal extensively with paint, full mechanicals, custom tuning and much much more. There are some very deceptive practices and some unscrupulous sellers when it comes to these cars. If you want this car go look at it and drive it. Although if you are looking for a project car I wish you well at this price. The pictures tell me something isn't right but I judge each car as a 300 point perfect concours winner and deduct value from there. I have seen and sold some 100k+ mile cars with all original paint they actually do exist and the cars sold for reasonable money. Just because it is original doesn't mean it is in excellent condition. I think you miss the point. The purpose of the paint meter isn't to check for original paint but more so to determine if the paint work is hiding undisclosed accident damage or bad bodywork. I find more times than not it is. I can usually tell with my eyes if paintwork was done as it has been on this car and the meter can tell me if there is 40 mils of hidden bondo. I have had cars that looked great that buyers bought and the meter couldn't get a reading the bondo was that thick. I don't care if it was painted but if it was how, by whom? What paint was used? Was it done correctly? In solid colors is half the car single stage the other base clear? etc.
I find many mechanics out there know less about these cars than some of the guys here. The seller states in one part of the ad 996 cams and another web cams with larger throttle body. If anything was done and records exist as a buyer you need to know what was done. Posting pics of some heads doesn't mean anything and many shops are clueless when they come across modified cars and I think the seller is full of BS with some of his claims. I recently opened an engine rebuilt by a supposed reputable shop and the second oil ring was installed upside down. You take a big risk with some of these claims that can cost much more than you can imagine even if you do the work yourself. I loved the 900 wheel torque on the dynapac charts of the original thread that speaks volumes at least he was smart enough to remove it from this ad.
This guys has added a few new shots to start but shows the odo photo from a year ago without 1 mile added. In the description he states 1000 miles added so why not add actual photos and updates for how the car currently is? A lot can happen in 1000 miles. You know how many of these have had the speedo replaced, tampered with or disconnected while driven? I can point out numerous cars for you and some sold on BaT. The wheels are clean in one shots and scuffed in another. He has changed his ad to state RSA style wheels so you need to read closely. He also states heavy duty shocks and weltmeister sway bars. Why not just say Bilstein HD's and H&R reds which are pictured in the car and weltmeister didn't make sway bars for this car which are actually original equipment not upgraded. Weltmeister did make a strut bar which sells for around $65 used. Clearly this car has the weltmeister strut bar and in some pictures it is installed and others not so I would question when some of the photos were taken.
If the clutch is stiff it has nothing to do with the light weight flywheel. If you believe that than you have some bad info.
I was just at Amelia Werks and Concours spoke to many reputable sellers, buyers and collectors. Sorry I missed a second opportunity to chat with Nathan in the past few weeks. Not one person felt that there is a downside to buying a clean 964 and many feel that they still have some room for growth although you buy these because you like them as with most any car.
I wish you luck with this and hope it is what you are looking for but I would expect more is going on than meets the eye and unless you know what you are doing this car I suspect will cost you more than the average clean 964 will.
FYI you state you are looking for a 964 with a 6 speed. I think you might want to correct that unless you want a 993 trans which is not worth the upgrade unless you go with short gears.
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