Lorenzoh

That as you so subtly implied, everyone will benefit from 😉

I’ll be interested to see where this auction goes. I’m sure it’ll get good money...more than I was going to pay for it. But as I said from the beginning, I never took issue with the car, it was the seller I had a problem with. Apparently someone saw the car today at a cars and coffee and confirmed the oxidation on the roof that the seller yesterday said “looked good to him”. 🙄

I’d strongly advise any potential buyer to see the car in person before bidding.

stutt911

Once again you are lashing out at people on here

3 different people saw that car in the BAT auctionover the weekend and have posted that it’s no where near as bad as you described it, their comments are there to read up on, your attitude and demeanor here on the forums are a good indication that you were probably a very difficult person to deal with and had unrealistic expectations , Unless you say those people that saw the car over the weekend and commented on the auction are all liars.

cobalt

Irrespective of whether this is the car Lorenzoh is discussing or not. What do we know about the car currently for sale?

The dyno sheet is a joke nobody in their right mind could think that this engine puts out 900+ ft pounds of torque. If the engine building shop did the dyno pull it concerns me.
The paint appears to be very clean in some shots and not in others.
There are signs of tape lines around the engine compartment and door jamb so at a min we can assume the left rear quarter has been painted.
Rear bumper has been painted to accommodate the twin exhaust.
Owner states clear film on hood but it would need to have been there since day one to have so few rock chips. Most likely paintwork there as well. (needs further investigation)
The drivers footwell carpeting is missing
The seats appear to have been recovered at some point the piping seems far too wavy for it to be factory but would need to be looked into.
The air pump is missing its tabs and accessories
Missing the tool kit.
Presence of oil weeping by power steering pump (could be pump, engine or both) Doesn't look excessive.
Cup wheels are aftermarket
There is something going on with the wiring harness by the ABS unit.

Can anyone else see anything they can point out?

minthral

Epic thread.

My 2 cents is OP is being a little harsh. The only evidence of the OP's claims are a few pics, which honestly aren't showing anything that bad for a 30 year old car.

Problem is expectations vs reality. Maybe seller could have set expectations better, but I don't I think potential buyer is justified to trash this car.

UserA

I saw the car today in person, commented on BAT as to the condition and bid on it as well. It is a 100K mile black car so I did not expect it to be prefect, it did show quite well and looked better than I anticipated. I did not see an indication of a prior roll cage nor any major paint issues. The seller also seemed like a decent guy who isn't looking to rob anyone. You buy a the car and the seller to some degree and I was sold on both. Lorenzoh, I have been in your shoes before and understand the frustration so I am not going to condemn the thread you started because if I wasn't so lazy I would have a couple of these threads for car I flew in to buy (such as a 993C2S that was a C2).

I would ask that the thread stick to verified facts though as all forum threads should be. If it is speculation, call it such. Car is going to Autometrics for a PPI, that should put some things to rest as the guys there are top notch in my opinion.

P.S. In hindsight I should have trashed the car so I could get it cheaper.

Vegas993

Clearly it's had paintwork since Lorenzoh posted pics, so it obviously presents better. On that note, finding a 100k car with no paintwork is pretty unlikely at this point so if the paintwork was done well, not a dealbreaker IMO.

One thing that I see that would concern me is what appears to be fresh electrical tape on the ABS Control module?

Fixed, lol.

996AE

Many P car buyers have 100k car taste with 10k beer budgets.

Part of the managing expectations on forums.

If you dare to list your car for sale seller beware.

LAcarguy

Not sure what the obsession is with paintwork: I have my hood painted every 5 years or it looks like my car was shot with a BB gun. You guys with 100k mile cars: THEY ARE NOT COLLECTORS CARS.
If you are a buyer I would pay more attention to the mechanics. Paint meters? You must be joking: who cares? Try and find a car with original paint, there aren't any! New paint 12k at the best there is, 5k anywhere else and I hope you have cataracts not to see the difference. 100k mile cars have been painted, if you don't think so, I have a bridge for sale.

Buy a car with a crap motor and it is 25k. Anywhere for less else is lying to you and we will relish reading about it here. You will get 10k estimates and it will be 25k anyway, we will laugh at your misfortune and encourage you to "go all the way".

If you are buying for profit, don't buy a 964, this is the Amazon/Apple?Google of Porsches, take your paint meter and well, cram it. Upside is already in. Buy a 996.

Almost any 964 for sale, plan on spending money. If you don't want to drive 2500 miles a year at LEAST, start a separate thread for "Its a Porsche, and I know nothing". You guys can have a paint meter party.

Check for collision damage, no records, missing vins, and large oil puddles. Anything else is "Congratulations, you bought a Porsche".

PS Don't post without photos, no one gives a crap if there isn't a photo.

Lorenzoh

My car is an ‘89 with less than $50k miles and it has all original single stage paint that looks virtually brand new. I don’t think many on here care that much about a car being painted and as you said, most have been at some point (but not all). I think most people like me, worry that if it was painted it was done right and is indiscernible to the eye. That’s usually not the case. But you are right, mechanicals should be the top priority when buying any 911.
996??? Eh, regular C2 996 will never hit 964 levels. Maybe 996GT3s as those have been rising for a while now.

Marine Blue

The only reason to concern yourself with a respray is highlighted in your post. A car that has had a respray due to age/mileage is fine as long as the shop doing the work did the proper prep,used good quality paint and used the proper parts for reassembly. Problem is that many sellers spend far less on the respray to hide the defects and they don’t really care what the car will look like in 3 -4 years because it’s no longer their problem. So buyer gets a car that looks great initially and hidden underneath is shrinking bondo, accident that may be more serious and eventual paint failure. I’ve seen it umpteen times.

Bottom line, there’s no such thing as a bargain 964. Be prepared to sink money into it and or spend a larger sum up front.

LAcarguy

Bottom line, there’s no such thing as a bargain 964. Be prepared to sink money into it and or spend a larger sum up front.

If you can't do this: Buy a 996

996AE

My 1988 911 is mechanically perfect, better than new. But at 156k miles its had hood and front bumper shot and to match blended front fenders. Never been hit, but time and rock chips, etc.... after 30 years it was time. I know I know, its now not 100% original paint. Should have left the patina.

I figure this cuts its value by 50% on Pelican.

Heck, come to think about it I probably cant give it away.

UserA

I'll give you $8,500 for that hunk of junk!

996AE

Told ya!

25k in rebuilt bottom engine, refreshed suspension, interior etc.... and it's darn near worthless.

Dont tell the wifey.

cobalt

This has all been discussed multiple times on this thread. However nothing wrong with finding the best value/example you can. My experience tells me that if you can afford the better more expensive car that has few or no needs in the end you will be far happier unless you don't mind buying a cheap car and plan to strip it down and rework everything cosmetically and or mechanically before you begin to drive it. I can point out cars that had proper full respray and mechanical work performed and the value of the car was worth far more after than before the work was done. If you think a quality well documented respray will devalue your car by 50% you are mistaken. Although a no records no documentation paint job done by Joe's Garage will.

Just like in the 80's grey market as prices began to rise people started putting Earl Scheib "i'll paint any car for $69.95" quality paint jobs on damaged cars to fool perspective buyers. A paint meter can tell you more than just if the car was painted but, why. I can't tell you how many have tried to pass off a full respray due to cosmetic purposes only to cover up accident damage. Paint meter can't even get a reading the bondo was so thick and that is a nightmare you don't want to get involved with. I would rather buy the damaged car and have it fixed to my standards than have a second rate paint job over prior poor repairs. I have seen cars sold as simple resprays and when we took the paint down found 15 layers. Instead of fixing the issues they just had it resprayed over and over. As Afshin states if the prep work isn't done improperly it will continue to look like crap once the paint fully cures.

If you read and do your homework you will find unless you are paying the $180-200 per hour big name guys there is no reason for a $25k bill for a bottom end engine rebuild unless damage was done. In either case today mechanicals and paint can both set you back a huge amount if you want top quality. So educating yourself on every aspect of what can be a costly repair later on is the best approach. Relying on a PPI can only tell you so much and not all shops have the insight to judge paintwork and I can't tell you how many reputable shops I wouldn't trust with a Honda civic. Look at BaT there is a who's who of cars and what not to do to learn from mixed together with cars that were done properly.

PS: I can show you many all original paint cars with well over 100k miles. Some look good and some not so much.