964 kill switch done the right way
#1
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964 kill switch done the right way
This project has been going on long enough that there is about a 1mm thick layer of dust on the car in the garage! I went to get my tech inspection for my upcoming race in a couple weeks at California Speedway, it was noted that my kill switch was not mounted properly. The new rules for the POC mandate that the kill switch is to be placed behind the front shock towers. Yikes - in an early 911 this is no problem; but in a 964, it was truly difficult to find a place to squeeze in a kill switch.
This also gave me an opportunity to install the correct, 6-pole kill switch. I had been using an el cheapo $12 kill switch that is a 2-pole switch from my past race car. Well, I sprang for the $45 version for the sake of it working the way it should - kill the battery power, kill the DME (fuel and ignition) and save the alterrnator diodes by preventing a voltage surge upon cut-off. The 6-pole switch provides all of these excellent features with ease.
The hard part was:
1. Figuring out where to install the switch amidst all the A/C hardware in the trunk so it was behind the front shock towers.
2. Figuring out where to "interrupt" the DME the way the factory describes.
So, here's my adventure...
This also gave me an opportunity to install the correct, 6-pole kill switch. I had been using an el cheapo $12 kill switch that is a 2-pole switch from my past race car. Well, I sprang for the $45 version for the sake of it working the way it should - kill the battery power, kill the DME (fuel and ignition) and save the alterrnator diodes by preventing a voltage surge upon cut-off. The 6-pole switch provides all of these excellent features with ease.
The hard part was:
1. Figuring out where to install the switch amidst all the A/C hardware in the trunk so it was behind the front shock towers.
2. Figuring out where to "interrupt" the DME the way the factory describes.
So, here's my adventure...
#4
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Interrupting that terminal #1 is the part that is cut-off with the poles labeled #2 in this diagram. The wiring diagram calls it the igntion switch and coil - but bypassing terminal #1 of the DME takes care of this.
Below is the kill switch wiring diagram for the 6-poles. It's pretty straight forward.
Below is the kill switch wiring diagram for the 6-poles. It's pretty straight forward.
#5
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Now, for the messy part - the CENTRAL ELECTRIC PANEL!!!!
You can see from the pics, that it's a mess. Removing it is like arm wrestling your grandma as you twist the wiring harness. Once removed, it is plug E that contains the lucky wire that needs to be bypassed...
To remove a plug, there is a handy slider at the top of the central electric - sliding this will unlock all the plugs. This took me about 3 hours to figure out - after mangling the plug (well, almost) I noticed this little lever and once you slide it, the plugs come off with no problem...
You can see from the pics, that it's a mess. Removing it is like arm wrestling your grandma as you twist the wiring harness. Once removed, it is plug E that contains the lucky wire that needs to be bypassed...
To remove a plug, there is a handy slider at the top of the central electric - sliding this will unlock all the plugs. This took me about 3 hours to figure out - after mangling the plug (well, almost) I noticed this little lever and once you slide it, the plugs come off with no problem...
#6
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Once unlocked, plug E can be removed (it's the second to the last one on the bottom right of the panel).
Shown is the small wire loop which is a brown & black wire. This is the secret wire to bypass! This wire is what is interrupted to kill the DME relay. So, the wire is cut, and new wires soldered to it. The wires soldered are run to the kill switch, and they are attached to the poles labeled "2" on the kill switch diagram...
Shown is the small wire loop which is a brown & black wire. This is the secret wire to bypass! This wire is what is interrupted to kill the DME relay. So, the wire is cut, and new wires soldered to it. The wires soldered are run to the kill switch, and they are attached to the poles labeled "2" on the kill switch diagram...
#7
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Now for the secret location of the kill switch - this was very difficult to figure out, but I think this is the only location it can possibly go without cutting a hole in the body and mounting the switch outside of the trunk.
I made this bracket from aluminum sheet purchased from Home Depot.
I made this bracket from aluminum sheet purchased from Home Depot.
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#8
Originally Posted by garrett376
Once unlocked, plug E can be removed (it's the second to the last one on the bottom right of the panel).
Shown is the small wire loop which is a brown & black wire. This is the secret wire to bypass! This wire is what is interrupted to kill the DME relay. So, the wire is cut, and new wires soldered to it. The wires soldered are run to the kill switch, and they are attached to the poles labeled "2" on the kill switch diagram...
Shown is the small wire loop which is a brown & black wire. This is the secret wire to bypass! This wire is what is interrupted to kill the DME relay. So, the wire is cut, and new wires soldered to it. The wires soldered are run to the kill switch, and they are attached to the poles labeled "2" on the kill switch diagram...
Great Post, BTW!
#9
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I had to add a grommet to run the ignition cut-off wires - they go from the central electric, across all the A/C servos, through this grommet, to the poles on the bottom of the kill switch.
These pics show the grommet I added to the "firewall", and also the bottom side of the kill switch with all the plugs installed...
These pics show the grommet I added to the "firewall", and also the bottom side of the kill switch with all the plugs installed...
#10
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Now for the final product! I kept the pull string in the same location as I had it before (saved me from pulling off the original sticker!
The problem I ran into was that the hood supports are quite thick, and I had to cut down the red key to be able to clear the hood. It took all my creative juices to chop up the key to keep it working where it cleared everything.
These pics show the battery wire routing, the resistor installation for the alternator protection, etc...
The problem I ran into was that the hood supports are quite thick, and I had to cut down the red key to be able to clear the hood. It took all my creative juices to chop up the key to keep it working where it cleared everything.
These pics show the battery wire routing, the resistor installation for the alternator protection, etc...
#11
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Hope this helps those looking to install a kill switch the correct way on the 964. I had a tough time finding help for this - thanks to Bob Gagnon and Joey B for giving me the tips needed to get this thing wired right!! Success!! I fired up the car, and a turn of the switch kills it dead with no worries of frying the alternator! Love it when it works!
The following 2 users liked this post by garrett376:
lbpa18 (04-15-2021),
mark lintott (12-13-2021)