I just picked up the following clutch on ebay for $175:

"SPEC stage 3 Hybrid Clutch removed from '86 Porsche 944 Turbo when engine was repaired due to an oil leak at the rear of the engine. Purchased new from Lindsey Racing in 2007 for over $900, Clutch has 3500 miles of street-only usage - mature driver.This clutch and matching pressure plate are very heavy duty Racing grade components."

Is this a poor choice with a street driven car that is being built to put out around 340 RWHP or should I go with "KEP2 PP with 930 disc" or something else? What are people using with satisfaction for street use and limited chatter?

My car has some chatter with what I assume is a stock clutch (48,000 original miles on my 951), but I don't have to replace it right now, this deal just looked pretty good, but I imagine I could sell or trade this one to a racer, no big deal one way or another, but the chatter in my current clutch is a bit annoying and with all the work I will be doing shortly I might come down to a point where I just have the clutch done so that everything has been gone through and like I asked above will I run into issues with a stock clutch and 340ish RWHP?

Thanks in advance, I have read up on the topic but hear conflicting information on the subject.

 

If you search on here people recommend not using the 930 disk but use the cup disk with the KEP PP. Not sure if you were aware of the postings.

 

I believe I have read that to. Information overload! Lol I try to research these things and try not to ask too many questions.

Thank you

 

That does not sound like a good match for your car honestly. The disk is probably a 6-puck style with something like carbon ceramic friction material (and may be oil contaminated anyway). Using a disk like that will just add needless engagement challenges for a 340rwhp car. You are on the brink of being able to use the stock clutch, but I'd probably increase the pressure plate pressure a little and use a stock (cup) disk. I'm a huge fan of the KEP/cup combo, but you don't really need even the KEP1 level of pressure, so no need to add the extra strain to the firewall, fork, and left leg if not necessary. South Bend Clutches and others can change the fulcrum point on a stock (sachs) pressure plate, putting it somewhere between the KEP1 and a stock PP. That and a stock (cup) disk and you'd be all set. You might also ask Lindsey or Spec if that PP you bought has a higher clamp force than stock and, if so, if it can be used with a stock (cup) disk. Just about any additional PP pressure should be enough for you, since you are on the edge of getting away with a stock clutch/pp anyway... As long as you use a cup disk, it should engage smoothly, absent any weirdness about the PP and flywheel.

 

Awesome, thanks, that is the kind of opinion and information I was looking for.

Thank you!

 

If you go with KEP go with the stage 1 pp it is more than you will ever use. It will hold to 530 ftlbs torque with a stock 951 clutch.

When you talk about clutches you need to look at torque not HP.

 

I just did mine using a KEP stage light and a cup disc. The stage light is in between stage 1 and stock, it is supposed to be good for 480 ft lbs. I am very happy with this setup, it engages just like stock, no chatter and I dont feel any difference in pedal effort.

 

Ya don't go with a 6 puck racing clutch. Not fun on the street.

 

As stated you do not want a 4 or 6 puck clutch, these clutches are either on or off with very little in between.

 

Thanks guys, looks like I will have a clutch for sale or stored for when I find something with more miles for full out modification.

Why I love this site, what a great resource.