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Removing Original Head Studs

Old 04-28-2017, 06:57 PM
  #16  
951and944S
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Originally Posted by refresh951 View Post
Really appreciate all the input. We are going to try some heat. I will post the results
Don't even bother heating the block where you think the threads may be, not necessary. You probably aren't in a hurry but the tig put heat in the stud so fast, you'd never do it any other way forward. By the time you tig the nut, 25% of the stud is glowing.....run the torch a couple more inches down to speed the transfer.

By the time I get the last one out, the first one on the floor is still smoking or too hot to touch...

Not knocking anybody's method but pulling on a stud extractor or a pipe wrench complicates the problem and makes it harder to extract because just like your natural reaction to put your other hand on the stud to support the offset torque of the pipe wrench (as you should), you already know you are pulling at a less than optimum angle.

That's why Chris White's way works for him (impact on center) and the reason I use that slide pull bar you see in the pic. Either way, you are unscrewing the stud on center, not torqued off to the side.

Good luck,

T
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Old 04-28-2017, 10:15 PM
  #17  
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I may want to re-use my 2.7 studs, that's why I didn't weld onto them.
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Old 04-29-2017, 05:28 AM
  #18  
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Some blocks and studs fuse together and nothing can save the threads.
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Old 04-29-2017, 03:45 PM
  #19  
Tom M'Guinn
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+1 on MAP gas applied to the block sides where the threads are. In addition to thermal expansion, it helps break down the Red Loctite on the threads. I'm a huge fan of the collet style removers and a large t-bar for turning them, which avoids side-loading them like when you pull on one side with a wrench. If you get it to budge, you often have to work it back and forth a long time before you're out of the woods. I'd be worried an impact wrench would increase the chance of breaking them, but maybe I need to live on the edge a little more...
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Old 04-29-2017, 03:49 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 951and944S View Post
Don't even bother heating the block where you think the threads may be, not necessary. You probably aren't in a hurry but the tig put heat in the stud so fast, you'd never do it any other way forward. By the time you tig the nut, 25% of the stud is glowing.....run the torch a couple more inches down to speed the transfer.

By the time I get the last one out, the first one on the floor is still smoking or too hot to touch...

Not knocking anybody's method but pulling on a stud extractor or a pipe wrench complicates the problem and makes it harder to extract because just like your natural reaction to put your other hand on the stud to support the offset torque of the pipe wrench (as you should), you already know you are pulling at a less than optimum angle.

That's why Chris White's way works for him (impact on center) and the reason I use that slide pull bar you see in the pic. Either way, you are unscrewing the stud on center, not torqued off to the side.

Good luck,

T
Posts crossed, but don't disagree if you are willing to sacrifice the studs. Heat plus some way to not side-load the stud is the common theme...
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Old 04-29-2017, 05:17 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn View Post
Posts crossed, but don't disagree if you are willing to sacrifice the studs. Heat plus some way to not side-load the stud is the common theme...
Thought of saving them after removing never crossed my mind to be honest but I guess some people might want to do that.....

So, builder x is gonna remove stock studs, where there's probably no documented way to know what kind of PO work has been done and save them.....and for what reason...?

To deck the block...., good idea, going the extra yard....and saving the studs...?

To Nikasil the block...? Yup, cool option, gonna take a lot of expensive hardware to accompany the process.....and save the studs....?

A stock 944 stud is like $7 of $8 bucks from Porsche and 10 factory washers and nuts is $30 bucks.

That's around $100 bucks to replace them with factory new studs/nuts and washers.

Save 'em....?

LOL, a race tire is $225 dollars.

I hear ya though, and your post is understood.

T
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Old 04-29-2017, 05:32 PM
  #22  
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If the head studs used 574 I found this. Don't remember if it's 574 on head studs. Not sure if anyone has tried this in addition to the TIG method experienced people used. -55C to 150C is the temp range for 574.

http://www.loctite.co.uk/uke/content...rochure_lo.pdf

4 Disassembly
• Disassemble bolts with standard hand tools
• Use lifting-screws, cast bosses or recesses to lift fl anges apart
• For corroded or seized parts, use Loctite« 8040 Freeze & Release
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Old 04-29-2017, 05:41 PM
  #23  
Tom M'Guinn
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Originally Posted by 951and944S View Post
Thought of saving them after removing never crossed my mind to be honest but I guess some people might want to do that.....

So, builder x is gonna remove stock studs, where there's probably no documented way to know what kind of PO work has been done and save them.....and for what reason...?

To deck the block...., good idea, going the extra yard....and saving the studs...?

To Nikasil the block...? Yup, cool option, gonna take a lot of expensive hardware to accompany the process.....and save the studs....?

A stock 944 stud is like $7 of $8 bucks from Porsche and 10 factory washers and nuts is $30 bucks.

That's around $100 bucks to replace them with factory new studs/nuts and washers.

Save 'em....?

LOL, a race tire is $225 dollars.

I hear ya though, and your post is understood.

T
All true. I've never reused a set myself either, but I'm inexplicably compelled to preserve all old parts on this car so they can sit in my garage unused for the rest of time.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:23 PM
  #24  
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If the studs come out easily I don't see the point in spunking $100 on another set.
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Old 04-29-2017, 08:29 PM
  #25  
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The oem studs are fine to reuse and they are of high quality. I am not reusing these studs either but certainly not wrong to want to save them. I completely agree with Tom here. On the other hand, if welding a nut is necessary to remove I am fine with that also.

Great input from all. Thank You!
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:10 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by refresh951 View Post
The oem studs are fine to reuse and they are of high quality. I am not reusing these studs either but certainly not wrong to want to save them. I completely agree with Tom here. On the other hand, if welding a nut is necessary to remove I am fine with that also.

Great input from all. Thank You!
So did you get them out?
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Old 04-30-2017, 01:15 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn View Post
All true. I've never reused a set myself either, but I'm inexplicably compelled to preserve all old parts on this car so they can sit in my garage unused for the rest of time.
I'm just here for the levity....

I pop in for a couple days then disappear like the wind...

I'm really only hanging around for the final word on this from Voith...

T
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Old 04-30-2017, 01:20 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by blade7 View Post
If the studs come out easily I don't see the point in spunking $100 on another set.
Because you don't know whether a previous owner might have owned a torque wrench from the UK version of WalMart.....?

T
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Old 04-30-2017, 01:27 AM
  #29  
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Engine gasket kit - $500 - check
Block work - $600 - check
New pistons - $6-$1200 - check
Head reconditioned - $400 - check
Quality rings - $150 - check
Clutch set (while I'm in there) - $600 - check
30 hours labor

Now where'd I put my 150K mile, 5 previous owner head studs....., oh yeah, there they are on the floor under the pile of floor dry...., next to my torque wrench......

T
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Old 04-30-2017, 02:12 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 951and944S View Post
Engine gasket kit - $500 - check
Block work - $600 - check
New pistons - $6-$1200 - check
Head reconditioned - $400 - check
Quality rings - $150 - check
Clutch set (while I'm in there) - $600 - check
30 hours labor

Now where'd I put my 150K mile, 5 previous owner head studs....., oh yeah, there they are on the floor under the pile of floor dry...., next to my torque wrench......

T
May not want to use a "reconditioned" head or a "used" block at those prices. Probably best to buy new
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