Removing Original Head Studs
 

My machinist is trying to remove original head studs from an 87 block. I have had the block for years sitting out back of my house. It was covered but not sealed and so saw some corrosion. He has removed studs from many 944 blocks without issue but two of the studs are really stuck. He is afraid they are going to break.

My question is will heat help and how should it be applied? I have read and some say heat the stud then quench, some say heat the block around the stud. Looking for knowledgeable input. TIA.

I used a basic propane torch around the threaded portion of the block. It was the intake side that was the most stuck on my block. Factory used some sort of thread locker on them.

Try a mix of acetone and ATF used like WD-40 it is supposed to work to break loose stuck hardware.

next best option is this:

http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html

Alternative to heat method if it is corrosion.

Aluminum expands and contracts far more than steel. The purpose of heat is to cause dimensional upset. As the part cools is the time when it will loosen up. I imagine by the time you got the studs at a high enough temperature to cause this, the block would already be smoking hot. My vote is to heat the block around the stud, if not both.

Quenching is probably the last thing I would do if you're concerned about breaking the studs. I'm not sure if those studs are heat treatable, but if they are, there's a chance of hardening and thus making them more brittle if you quench.

All but one came straight out of a 2.7 block I've got, the last one wouldn't move so I used penetrating fluid and a heat gun on the outside of the block. I had to turn that stud backwards and forwards a quarter turn nearly all the way out otherwise I think it would have snapped.

Heated mine with a map gas torch bought from a local hardware store. Then used a large pipe wrench to turn them out. Didn't hurt a thing.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...418985db7a.jpg

A combination of heat, double nut, huge pipewrench "like pictured above" and a knipex cobra wrench was used on the last block i did this on . I wonder how easy it would have been with a stud extractor ?

PB Blaster and let it sit for at least 2 days.

do you have a barbeque at least block-sized...:)

use heat at the lowest point of the studs in the block; that is where the factory adhesive is. then use a stud remover kit or stud socket. Works everytime, but patience is critical.

Tig weld the nuts (1 per stud) to the stud an inch or two down.

You have a removal mechanism and the heat from the tig loosens the factory grip.

Sometimes I'll run the tig torch down the stud too an inch or two short of the block surface.

I fought this for years too.....until I tried the method I described.

I can have all head stud out in 10-15 minutes.

I'll make a video on a wager if anybody is doubtful enough to up some coin...:D

T

Here ya go - Propane just happened to be in a pic, Miller Diversion in the background is what I use.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...2c89758d7d.jpg


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...73a18a08b5.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...aacd076b11.jpg

T

+2 on TIG (or Mig) welding on some nuts. I usually do that and then use an impact gun to take them out. Its never fun!

Really appreciate all the input. We are going to try some heat. I will post the results :)