Removing Original Head Studs
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Removing Original Head Studs
My machinist is trying to remove original head studs from an 87 block. I have had the block for years sitting out back of my house. It was covered but not sealed and so saw some corrosion. He has removed studs from many 944 blocks without issue but two of the studs are really stuck. He is afraid they are going to break.
My question is will heat help and how should it be applied? I have read and some say heat the stud then quench, some say heat the block around the stud. Looking for knowledgeable input. TIA.
My question is will heat help and how should it be applied? I have read and some say heat the stud then quench, some say heat the block around the stud. Looking for knowledgeable input. TIA.
#2
Rennlist Member
I used a basic propane torch around the threaded portion of the block. It was the intake side that was the most stuck on my block. Factory used some sort of thread locker on them.
#3
Try a mix of acetone and ATF used like WD-40 it is supposed to work to break loose stuck hardware.
next best option is this:
http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html
Alternative to heat method if it is corrosion.
next best option is this:
http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html
Alternative to heat method if it is corrosion.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Aluminum expands and contracts far more than steel. The purpose of heat is to cause dimensional upset. As the part cools is the time when it will loosen up. I imagine by the time you got the studs at a high enough temperature to cause this, the block would already be smoking hot. My vote is to heat the block around the stud, if not both.
Quenching is probably the last thing I would do if you're concerned about breaking the studs. I'm not sure if those studs are heat treatable, but if they are, there's a chance of hardening and thus making them more brittle if you quench.
Quenching is probably the last thing I would do if you're concerned about breaking the studs. I'm not sure if those studs are heat treatable, but if they are, there's a chance of hardening and thus making them more brittle if you quench.
#5
Drifting
All but one came straight out of a 2.7 block I've got, the last one wouldn't move so I used penetrating fluid and a heat gun on the outside of the block. I had to turn that stud backwards and forwards a quarter turn nearly all the way out otherwise I think it would have snapped.
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#8
Rennlist Member
A combination of heat, double nut, huge pipewrench "like pictured above" and a knipex cobra wrench was used on the last block i did this on . I wonder how easy it would have been with a stud extractor ?
#11
Burning Brakes
use heat at the lowest point of the studs in the block; that is where the factory adhesive is. then use a stud remover kit or stud socket. Works everytime, but patience is critical.
#12
Race Car
Tig weld the nuts (1 per stud) to the stud an inch or two down.
You have a removal mechanism and the heat from the tig loosens the factory grip.
Sometimes I'll run the tig torch down the stud too an inch or two short of the block surface.
I fought this for years too.....until I tried the method I described.
I can have all head stud out in 10-15 minutes.
I'll make a video on a wager if anybody is doubtful enough to up some coin...
T
You have a removal mechanism and the heat from the tig loosens the factory grip.
Sometimes I'll run the tig torch down the stud too an inch or two short of the block surface.
I fought this for years too.....until I tried the method I described.
I can have all head stud out in 10-15 minutes.
I'll make a video on a wager if anybody is doubtful enough to up some coin...
T
#13
Race Car
Here ya go - Propane just happened to be in a pic, Miller Diversion in the background is what I use.
T
T
Last edited by 951and944S; 04-28-2017 at 04:03 PM.
#14
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+2 on TIG (or Mig) welding on some nuts. I usually do that and then use an impact gun to take them out. Its never fun!