OZ951

Now that I have adjusted my AFR on the dyno for boost conditions and boost transition zones I have put up a new zone worksheet on my web page.

ZONE WORKSHEET - Post dyno tuning

The worksheet may be of use as a guide to other link MAP users but please note that the worksheet values contained within it are based on my own engine configuration which has different fuel pressure, injectors, turbo etc.

I still havent figured out why row 200 needs such a large difference in fuel to every other row but at the end of the day it still works. I have version8 chips in my 951.

One thing I have noticed is that initially you might have a cell that has a good AFR but sometimes you modify the values in adjacent cells and you end up having to re-adjust the cell that was originally good. This is due to interpolation between the cells. So when you think you have the MAP pretty close, go for a drive and try and get the car to sit in each cell for a moment and verify that the mixture in that cell is good.

Sami951

Nice, thanks for sharing! Did you get the cruise / low load cells adjusted properly with just narrow band O2 (as per the procedure you describe on your site), or did you do them while at the dyno?

I've been playing with my MAP for a while now, and it's getting closer every day. One thing I haven't figured out so far is that in some low load zones, my narrow band meter will read lean, and if I add just a bit more throttle, it'll go rich ... still within the same zone. Could this be caused by the interpolation, ie. nearby zones are slightly rich or lean?

turbo951fan

This is an amazing web page. Nice that your girlfriend supports you in your hobby. Tuning with the link is very hard (but probably rewarding too), especially when changes in one zone effects other zones.

superjet.1

I can help with tuning just call me Travis 1-661-294-0072. I have alot of hours tuning with link products and have some nifty tuning tricks that make it much easyer. OW and im the guy who developed the link afm for the 951

OZ951

Something weird is happening with the server at my ISP, it seems to be pointing at an old version of the web page and an old zone worksheet. The correct version has two dyno charts side by side and the zone work sheet besides them.

The low load / cruise and boost transition cells I adjusted on the highway with the narrow band O2. I previously did the same thing with Dwayne Williams and his wide band band O2 and the end result is the same - when you get it right the car feels smooth as you put your foot down and move into or out of boost. I also talked to the dyno guy about tuning the cruise/street part of the fuel MAP and he agreed that it is often best to do it on the street where the load on the car is more realistic than it is on the dyno.

Sami, the change between the rich and lean indication may be caused by the fact that you are not on the throttle to any great extent before you put your put down further. It may also be a consequence of the fact that the controller/display seems to have a little lag in it and I suspect that on occasion it may not show you that you are in a particular zone if you pass through that zone very quickly. The AFR gauge on the other hand has a pretty fast response and will show the AFR of every zone you pass through. I would look at your zones and just make sure that there are not huge jumps from one zone to the next (horizontally and vertically) - row 200 is the exception - it is way different to every other row for me.

Jason_86_951

Travis,
Glad to hear that you will be supporting the Link products.
On that note, has Link figured out what the actual cause of the off-idle stumble is? And what remedies are available to the countless individuals that have experienced this problem? I think many of us have been able to tune 60-70% of the stumble out, but if there is a way to rid ourselves of this it would be a blessing.

Thanks,
Jason

superjet.1

Jason there is no way to get all the stumble out because our cars are low vacuum motors and the link unit is very sensitive so the transition is to great from off idle to open throttle. Your on the right trake though. you need transitional fuel to carry over. Id suggest adding fuel to the cells around your idle zones and remember all cells are interpolated. then add 10% to your accell enrichment if you get confused call me im here for ya. and thank you. OZ 951 Great work man! You seem to know your stuff. Do you mind if i use some of your data for future use?

OZ951

Ok since my ISP is playing up here is the zone worksheet and the dyno sheet with AFR

Travis, glad to hear that you are around to provide some support. Sorry to hear about the situation with Danno and your car, very un-cool.

superjet.1

this is very informative and real quality work. You must have put some hours into this.

superjet.1

What gear was this pull in?

Dwayne Williams

Maybe I've adjusted my driving style quite a bit (this was my first manual transmission), but I don't really see too much of a stumbling problem off of idle. I typically try to do a smoother, slower start so maybe that's masking the issue since I never really stab the throttle coming off idle. I did recently have all the hoses and belts replaced and occassionally the car will run poorly until it's warmed up but once it's warm it's pretty smooth.

For those of you not lucky enough to live near OZ951, I can tell you he's a really good guy with a lot of practical knowledge on these cars. He helped me tune in my car after a chip, injector, intake, and turbo upgrade and the difference was dramatic. I'm only running 15 PSI and since the chips were set for 17 PSI we had to make some significant changes. Now that he's "shown me the way" I can fine tune it, but don't think my car would be running as well as it is without his help. After that tuning experience I would strongly recommend anyone trying to tune a Link kit get the handheld controller and a wideband or spend some time on the dyno to get it all sorted out for your car. The results are worth it. And I can tell you OZ's tuning process works.

OZ951

Travis, the pulls were in fourth gear from around 2700rpm and were momentarily lean as I put my foot down. The on road tuning after the dyno runs helped me to fine tune & eliminate that problem.

Dwayne, I'm glad to have helped. I also dont consider that my car has a stumble problem but like you I also dont ever stab the throttle. I do heel & toe and that requires a fairly rapid throttle input. The MAP kit handles that just fine. If I couldn't do that then I think I would consider it a problem.

OZ951

Here is the updated tuning guide I put together for the Link MAP. I amended it to include the steps I took whilst tuning on the dyno and afterwards on the street.

LINK TUNING GUIDE

B951S

Thats an excellent piece of work!

OZ951

Thanks, I'm just paying my dues for all the good stuff I have picked up from Rennlist.