ewainwright

OZ thanks for your insights. I agree that tuning in the MAP is an ongoing project. I do have some questions. The J pipe. The part that you received did it look like what was on the site? Where you made aware at the time of purchase that the system had an inherent stumble issue? I spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic. The stumble is a problem as it leads to a stall condition unless starting off at high RPM. what are you thoughts?

cpt_koolbeenz

OZ thanks soo much!! Hopefully it won't be too different than what my car will be with my TEC turbo. Are you running a restrictor for it? What fuel pressure are you running with those 75# injectors?

Thanks

Karbokane

I am getting a new map kit in a few days with handheld. Hopefully I can put this in and drive it before the buffalo snow packs my car into a snow bank till spring. Well it seems that I have a lot to learn about this kit as I dont know much at all. Ill let you guys know how it goes and try to get some pics. Any install advice for the newbie.....

Thanks

OZ951

The install directions are straight forward but the harnesses to the DME and KLR do have some wire colours that are used more than once so verify that you are tapping the correct wires with a multimeter on the correct pin#. Also when you tap into the wiring harnesses make 100% sure that you have a good and sturdy electrical connection, if in doubt re-do it, if still in doubt re-do it again (I have a pet hate about dodgy wiring and the troubles it causes!!).

But like I said, its a simple installation if you follow the directions and make good connections.

Good luck & I hope you get some decent weather to do your road testing.

OZ951

When the black steel J pipe arrived with my kit I sent it straight back and received a refund from Danno. I didn't like that J pipe one bit. I was not aware of the stumble issue when I purchased the kit but I did get in on it early and thats the price you pay I guess.

I dont have to use a particularly high RPM to pull away from the lights in normal traffic. I also have a lightened crank, PP & FW and I wouldnt say the car has much if any more than normal sensitivity to stalling. I dont use any additional throttle enrichment at this point in time.

cpt_koolbeenz - I am running my 75lbs/hr injectors at 2.5 Bar with the fqs set at the 65lbs/hr setting as per Danno's suggestion. I do not have any restrictor in the turbo oil feed but am still considering going down that route if I do find the turbo becomes smokey. I'm running Mobil 1 15W-50, not sure if that has been a contributor to the low smoke lately. Good luck with your dyno tuning, I'll look forwards to seeing the results.

ewainwright

With the Guru chips I am running my fuel pressure at 43.5 (at idle with the vacuum line disconnected). I have found that by running slightly rich at idle the stumble is not as pronouned as when I am at 14.7. Interestly, at 14.7, according to the hand held controller, I am solidly in cell 305 yet the idle goes up and down along with the computer's fuel adjustment (closed loop). At one point during the summer I put back the stock injectors, lower my fuel pressure, replaced the afm, and authority chips (left in the turbo) she idled, came off idle, and ran great until the onset of boost when understandably she started to run lean.

With the MAP once underway and under WOT she is running well. My transition from off boost to on boost is very smooth.

My issue surrounds idle and just off idle. I spend a lot time in stop and go traffic in my morning commute

Jake951

OZ: Your tuning guide is great. Being a Link MAP user, I can relate to everything you've said.

A few questions:

You put the DME into open loop, effectively disabling the O2 sensor, I believe. What happens when you go back into closed loop? Or do you always run open loop? I'm wondering because once the car is in closed loop, changing the fuel maps doesn't seem to do much of anything. Apparently the loop takes control until you go WOT and then the DME shifts to the pre-programmed fuel maps. Is that correct?

Sami951

Ewain - how's your A/F when the engine stalls? Both mine and Tommy's car seemed to go very rich when the revs dropped real low (like when taking off and not giving any throttle), and then stalled completely... the zones are probably something like 405, 400, 505, 500, try -10% or so first and see if it helps any.

'86 944 turbo

Does anyone have a Dyno with a stage 2 MAP kit.

Jason_86_951

To dial out my stumble (80% anyways) I increased fuel as followed:
zone 8=+15
zone 9=+20
zone 10=+3
zone 11=+3
zone 205=+8
zone 305=+8
now here's the wierd part
large zone 0= -10
large zone 1= -10

This has gotten rid of 80% of my off idle stumble, you almost have to try and make it stumble. THe strange part is as Ewainwright said above about the idle hunting a little even though it apears to be in zone 305, I can't make it stumble on the high side of that ossilation, only the low side.
It's like there is 2 parts of each zone.......

OZ951

Going open loop doesn't disable the o2 sensor - it just makes the DME ignore it. After getting the map sorted out I put the car back in closed loop because that will maintain a close to stoich mixture at part throttle, it should keep it economical for long distance drives. Even in closed loop I do believe that it is still worthwhile to have the underlying fuel map close to where it should be for your car. My logic on that is that if the fuel map/chip combination is close to the mark then the DME is going to have to make fewer and smaller corrections in response to the O2 feedback. If the map was way off then the O2 readings would be off all the time and the DME would be constantly trying to command large changes to the fuel which I dont believe helps smoothness and throttle response.

Ewainright - you may not be as solidly in zone 305 as you think. If you are hearing your RPM vary and you are in open loop with IAS disabled then something is causing the variation and I dont belive its a variation within the cell. The hand controller does not seem to respond instantly to changes in cells and my experience was that it was switching between two cells but not showing the switch (or very occasionally showing it). When I evened up the mixture between the two cells the hunting RPM was eliminated. The excel graph on my web page shows that condition, its on the far RHS portion of the graph. The datalogs do seem to be better at showing the momentary switches into other cells.

OZ951

My dyno results are witha stage II MAP kit but also with other mods as well.

ewainwright

Jason, Sam, and OZ thanks. Dialing in the MAP seems to be more than I bargined for.I'll let you both know my results after this weekend (maybe tonight on my drive home). Regarding the J pipe OZ that was extremely smart. I got burned. Thanks ed

Edman951

What i really don't like about the Links Map is the dataloging.
It is a big pain in the ... to convert to Excel. I don't understand why they don't improve it.
I spend more time converting the comlink # to the proper zone. Then actually tuning it. Converting the zone take forever.
Links and performance delvelpment really have to look into upgrading the software. The comlink really make the map hard to use.
I'm sure i could tune out the bugs faster and better with a good software.

Also i think the comlink doesn't react fast enough to catch all the weird zone that need to be tuned.
Is their a way to make it log faster?

What do you guys think about the software?

OZ951

Without a doubt there is room for a better application there. I havent found it to be a major problem though but I am used to manipulating and thinning bulk data from tests/trials. It usually takes me about 10 minutes to go from importing a data file to having the graph. I have still been to lazy to make a macro to do it which I should have done by now. Perhaps I should get on that so that other people who are less familiar with excel could use it. You shouldnt have to spend a lot of time just manipulating data.