is this repaireable
#3
I saw a block chipped off like that in the same spot fixed with JB Weld as mentioned...
Obviously welding is ideal there but don't know how easy to weld the porous, dirty block of an unusual alloy.
Not a concern of gasket integity, just keeping the coolant in...
Obviously welding is ideal there but don't know how easy to weld the porous, dirty block of an unusual alloy.
Not a concern of gasket integity, just keeping the coolant in...
#4
Thank everyone,
I tried JB Weld in the hole in which this is broken and it just stripped when i applied torque on the bolt. I cleaned it up and filled it with aluminum and re-tapped the hole and it seemed to hold. when i put everything together, filled it with fluids and started it, it sprung a leak between the block and head so i tightened it up a bit more and thats when it broke.
So welding it is a possibility but finding a good welder may be close to impossible.
Not to mention when i took the head off,#4 piston ring appeared to be broken and gouged the cylinder wall which seized the engine...
I tried JB Weld in the hole in which this is broken and it just stripped when i applied torque on the bolt. I cleaned it up and filled it with aluminum and re-tapped the hole and it seemed to hold. when i put everything together, filled it with fluids and started it, it sprung a leak between the block and head so i tightened it up a bit more and thats when it broke.
So welding it is a possibility but finding a good welder may be close to impossible.
Not to mention when i took the head off,#4 piston ring appeared to be broken and gouged the cylinder wall which seized the engine...
#5
That is the wrong bolt to start. It appears to be too long which is why someone put the washer under it. My guess is it is still too long and was bottoming out in the hole which then led to the casting breaking off.
You can't weld it while it is together....or at least should not. If I were going to repair this on the cheap I'd get a proper length stud, JB weld it in the hole with the piece attached and secure it with a washer and nut. Proper torque is only something like 20Nm IIRC.
Good luck.
You can't weld it while it is together....or at least should not. If I were going to repair this on the cheap I'd get a proper length stud, JB weld it in the hole with the piece attached and secure it with a washer and nut. Proper torque is only something like 20Nm IIRC.
Good luck.
#6
You can fix that with TIG welding assuming its aluminum, keep the broken piece. You can also fix it with Alumalloy or other aluminum brazing rod (harborfreight sells it too)...
If its magnesium, can't weld it...
Problem is, you need to take the block apart to do it. No point in that, if its doesn't leak...
If its magnesium, can't weld it...
Problem is, you need to take the block apart to do it. No point in that, if its doesn't leak...
#7
Any machine shop that is decent can weld this, that is not a big deal. The bigger issue is that ring and scored block. Set of pistons, Bore, Alu-sil hone, plus the welding, might look around for a good used block, or a donor car.
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#9
With the head off, a good TIG welder should be able to fix no problem. If you want to one-up JB Weld with a DIY solution, I've used the stuff in this video and can vouch for it working as good as they say. If you watch to the end, you'll see examples quite similar to your issue...
#12
Well that HTS 2000 material and video is very impressive.
That would be the way to go for this location.
Per their website, you will need to heat the location up to 730°F or above. You'll have to thoroughly drain the coolant from the block in order to have a chance.
That would be the way to go for this location.
Per their website, you will need to heat the location up to 730°F or above. You'll have to thoroughly drain the coolant from the block in order to have a chance.