Notices
944 Turbo and Turbo-S Forum 1982-1991
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Clore Automotive

Torque tube removal; time to throw in the towel?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-28-2016, 09:18 PM
  #1  
darenchu
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
darenchu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 221
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Torque tube removal; time to throw in the towel?

Hello everyone, I haven't checked in in a while but now I'm back! ... and I need help.

Heres a quick rundown of what happened:

(I have a Porsche 944 turbo S)

I've been hearing whirring sounds coming from my torque tube for a while now (couple years.. I know I know. I'm horrible for not fixing it)

It wasn't bothering me but it's been getting a tiny bit louder lately.

I decided to fix it.

I contacted Constantine over at Black Sea R&D for a beautiful new drive shaft and rebuilt torque tube with super bearings and everything. It looks awesome.

I was then quoted by my usual shop to swap the torque tube in.

They told me it would be $3000 for labor. wtf.

whatever. I figured it wouldnt be too hard to do it myself after reading the tutorial and watching some videos. easy peasy.

So I started work on it.

The exhaust came off quite easily (everything behind the wastegate(?))

Except 3 of 4 bolts broke off on the wastegate. wtf. do I need a new one now? I cant imagine simply drilling them out. What type of bit do I use? Panic!

Then I ran into something I didn't see in the clarks garage manual.

Theres a whole jungle of stuff in the way of the 4-bolt flange on the front of the torque tube I'm assuming I have to remove to access the 4 bolts.

I started to remove the section of piping between the wastegate and headers(??) but the 3 bolts on one side seem to be different sizes.. on one 10mm bolt the nut is 9mm. The other 2 bolts are also 10mm, but my 9mm socket doesnt even bite onto the bolts. My 8mm doesnt even fit. What is going on?

then I realized I probably have to remove the wastegate to access the flange holding the torque tube up.

and then I probably have to remove the other section of exhaust that I think? goes to my turbo. Do i have to access this from the engine bay?

At this point I feel like I'm taking the entire car apart.

And I'm scared I might break some more bolts. Is there a way to prevent this from happening? I only used hand tools..

Is it time to throw in the towel?

Where can I source some new hardware for reinstallation?

Does anyone have any suggestions for a trustworthy shop in Chicago?

Thanks for all your help!


I've included some pictures for reference here:

http://imgur.com/a/YY1uw
Old 08-28-2016, 10:15 PM
  #2  
rlm328
Rennlist Member
 
rlm328's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 6,305
Received 309 Likes on 206 Posts
Default

Where are you located?

You should have disconnected the waste gate ate the support and it would have come out as a unit. The bolts that broke off soak them in PB Blaster for at least 24 hours, they should back right out with an easy out. I have not dropped my torque tube but have removed my engine numerous times. The more stuff you remove the easier it is to get at the hard to get at stuff. Take lots of pictures as you remove things.

Once everyone knows where you are then we can determine if anyone is near by to help out.
Old 08-28-2016, 10:16 PM
  #3  
darenchu
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
darenchu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 221
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Chicago
Old 08-28-2016, 10:59 PM
  #4  
944crazy
Pro
 
944crazy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 646
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

You shouldn't need to remove the dump pipe or down pipe from the turbo. You will have enough space to undo the four tt bolts after you take off the waste gate, starter and clutch slave cylinder.

With the three bolts on the wastegate to cross over pipe that won't fit your 9 or 10mm sockets, they might be imperial sizes for some reason.
Old 08-28-2016, 11:01 PM
  #5  
odonnell
Rennlist Member
 
odonnell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 4,769
Received 65 Likes on 47 Posts
Default

Tip for removing those 2 top bolts that hold the torque tube to the bellhousing. Go to harbor freight and get some long extensions, I don't remember the lengths off hand but in the neighborhood of 2-3 ft.

Then all you do is remove the shifter boots inside the cabin. Go under the car, install a U-joint swivel onto the socket, and stick that on the extension. Rest the extension om top of the torque tube temporarily - the other end of the extension should line up with the shifter hole in the chassis. Then just sit in the driver seat, attach breaker bar to extension, and remove those bolts in comfort.
Old 08-28-2016, 11:09 PM
  #6  
944crazy
Pro
 
944crazy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 646
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by odonnell
Tip for removing those 2 top bolts that hold the torque tube to the bellhousing. Go to harbor freight and get some long extensions, I don't remember the lengths off hand but in the neighborhood of 2-3 ft.

Then all you do is remove the shifter boots inside the cabin. Go under the car, install a U-joint swivel onto the socket, and stick that on the extension. Rest the extension om top of the torque tube temporarily - the other end of the extension should line up with the shifter hole in the chassis. Then just sit in the driver seat, attach breaker bar to extension, and remove those bolts in comfort.
Fuuarrk, I wish I had thought of that when I first undid mine. Luckily one of the top bolts was actually missing so it wasn't too difficult. I put it back together with four brand new bolts with 14mm af hex heads...that way I could fit my rachet spanner over them.
Old 08-29-2016, 12:55 AM
  #7  
darenchu
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
darenchu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 221
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks!! I'm gonna give it a shot with your suggestions tomorrow afternoon.

I would have never thought about the long extensions from the drivers seat!

Excited!
Old 08-29-2016, 01:14 AM
  #8  
odonnell
Rennlist Member
 
odonnell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 4,769
Received 65 Likes on 47 Posts
Default

Laziness inspires creativity

I've done this several times on my NA but not on the 951 yet. Hopefully there's enough room to pre-position everything.
Old 08-29-2016, 01:31 AM
  #9  
Techno Duck
Nordschleife Master
 
Techno Duck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 9,980
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Broken studs on the wastegate is common...this is a perfect opportunity to upgrade.. . Otherwise bring the wastegate to a machine shop and they will be able to get the broken studs out.

The top bolts for the bell housing to torque tube flange look daunting but aren't too difficult, if i remember right ive never had much trouble getting them out using a few long extensions and a flex joint with the socket. A long handle ratchet comes in handy hear.

Same with the top bolt on that wastegate bracket, just need the the right combo of extensions. If i remember right that bolt should be a 13mm.

Tho other hardware holding your wastegate on...you can just take a dremel and cut off the nuts. Might be easier if they are badly rusted.

You do not need to remove the crossover to get the torque tube out, so dont worry about the other rusty bolts until its time to do your clutch... .

Good luck.. i wont lie and say this is an easy job. In like 13 years of 944 ownership replacing the torque tube on my 951 was by far the worst job i ever did on it...and i did it on my friends lift!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...rque-tube.html
Old 08-29-2016, 10:34 AM
  #10  
Last Lemming
Burning Brakes
 
Last Lemming's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Lafayette Louisiana
Posts: 789
Received 11 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Just did this on mine. It is a major PIA.

Three words: wobble head extensions.

I can't tell you how much they can aid in working on 944 turbos. It seems every bolt is trick to get to on these cars.

Also once you have dropped the rear subframe you will need to remove an aluminum brace just beloe the torque tube. Be carful. This brace will support the Weight of the TT until it is removed. You will need a buddy to help you with the the removal. It's pretty awkward.

you also might have to disconnect the brake lines to drop the rear subframe down low enough to remove the TT.

I feel for ya brotha !!!

Last edited by Last Lemming; 08-29-2016 at 10:51 AM.
Old 08-29-2016, 07:42 PM
  #11  
jackkthemackk
Instructor
 
jackkthemackk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

where at in Chicago? I can help you out. I'm in Indiana, about 45 minutes from the loop downtown.
Old 08-29-2016, 09:00 PM
  #12  
darenchu
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
darenchu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 221
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hey Jack! Thanks for the offer, I really appreciate it! I'm located in the south loop just off I-55. Can you PM or email me so I can give you my contact info?
Old 08-30-2016, 10:30 PM
  #13  
darenchu
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
darenchu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 221
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Good news!! Because it didn't rain today, I unexpectedly had some time to work on this job.

  • Disconnected CV joints from transaxle
  • Broke 4/4 WG studs. I removed it with my trusty hammer.
  • I found out the heat shield between the starter and the wastegate had slots rather than holes for the bolts so I removed that with relative ease.
  • Starter removed
  • 4 bolts removed on front torque tube flange. I used the extension-in-seat method mentioned above. Worked like a charm! Thanks!

Upcoming:
  • unhook/remove transaxle + drive shaft shaft slip joint thing
  • drop subframe
  • refurbish wastegate at machine shop w new studs + threads
  • should I get a new wastegate? any suggestions on which is cheapest/best?
  • waiting on new exhaust hardware for the install

anything else I should do while I'm under there?
Old 08-30-2016, 10:44 PM
  #14  
refresh951
Rennlist Member
 
refresh951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Do not forget to undo the shifter
Old 08-30-2016, 11:00 PM
  #15  
944crazy
Pro
 
944crazy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 646
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Seeing as you need to drop the subframe anyway, it might be easier to just drop the trans with the subframe, wheels, brakes, torque tube etc attached all in one go. I haven't done this myself, but have read elsewhere that its possible. Might be an option for you to look into to make things a bit easier. Could save undoing CV joints and transaxle hanger and tranxle bell housing bolts.


Quick Reply: Torque tube removal; time to throw in the towel?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 02:58 AM.