odonnell

I'm trying to decide on a clutch setup for my 951, which currently has a stock setup. I've decided I want to use a stock pressure plate, or one that is very close to stock, after seeing fork failures left and right.

I've read a lot of the clutch threads and feramic disk material seems promising. I'm also interested in a cup or 930 disk. What's the torque limit on all these combos? I'm not building a crazy drag car, but I would like the setup to hold 375 wtq, just so I won't need to upgrade it later down the line if I ever start getting really serious with adding power. Is this even possible with the stock PP, with any disk?

V2Rocket

save up and buy the LR mini disk...

odonnell

I've been eyeballing their push style clutch for months. Too much denaro. I'd rather start with a basic but effective setup, and do a big upgrade later on. This 951 owes me a few years of driving before I drop another grand on drivetrain parts.

mahoney944

I use a stock PP with the cup disk, having also used 930 disk on a stock PP. I'd use the cup clutch imo. The only difference is the lack of smoothing from the extra spring assembly on the stock disk. At high rpms all disks have a slight imbalance to them when released by the pressure plate. The stock disk has an extra spring assembly to smooth out the disk, where the cup and 930 does not. This is something you really wont notice though. I know for me going from my old clutch to all new parts my clutch was so much easier to press and much smoother and the clamping power was good. My guess is all the new bearings, springs, or anything that has movement wasn't weathered yet as the old stuff was and therefore moved much better

odonnell

What torque figures were you pushing on them? My main concern is clutch slip, from too low of a PP clamping force.

Tom M'Guinn

I've got plenty of miles on the KEP1/Cup combo and no fork issues. I did not have good luck trying other disks (no matter how smooth they claimed to be -- they weren't...). 375rwt is probably just beyond the comfortable range of the stock parts, but just by a bit. One option might be to use the Cup disk and have the stock pressure plate reworked to add additional clamping force -- maybe half of what the KEP1 adds. There are a number of places that can do that work, including South Bend Clutches if I recall...

mahoney944

Unless your tracking the car you'll be fine with the cup/ stock pp combo. I use to run 20 psi on it with no slip.

Tom M'Guinn

Mine started slipping after I dyno'd at 350ish... First time I noticed it was a cold night (new years eve if memory serves) where the actual engine output likely exceeded the corrected dyno numbers by a decent amount...

odonnell

Purely a street car, less chatter the better.

So, stock PP + cup disk... good enough to hold that torque? Stock organic disk is out of the running.

pole position

With a re surfaced flywheel,new Cup disc and a properly working pressure plate I don't see any problem with your TQ goal

FYI , a cup clutch held 380 Dynojet whp on my car almost two decades ago

odonnell

10-4, thanks.

I'm leaning toward having Southbend (or equivalent) rebuild the pressure plate slightly stiffer. I have no idea what it's history is anyway.

rlm328

KEP stage 1 is pretty good replacement for stock. I am running the KEP stage 2 with a 6 puck clutch. I have been running this set up for a number of years with no clutch fork problems. I am running around 505 ft lbs torque at the crank, this is a continuous load and not a shock load similar to what you would get with a power shift.