The 951 hardware, engine, bell housing, torque tube, transaxle, linkage, etc..should go right in. Be careful with your wiring harness, and as previously stated, you may have to do something with the intercooler mount(custom pipes at least I would think). Not sure about the instrumentation swap. You may want to keep the 6 spd..

I think the going price for nice clean 3.0L has been $3k to $3.5k.

 

Ok, that sounds good. Ive seen pictures of 968 turbos with the intercooler stuck in there somehow. Im sure its not that much of a problem. Im not going to keep the 6 speed tranny even though its "crisp" as hell compaired to my 951 tranny. Ive heard 968 trannys were more prone to damage, also this one seems to have some sort of whine coming from it, im going to check the fluid level tomorrow. If its fine, i guess their are no known issues mating a 951 engine with a 968 tranny? Also, does anyone know if i can use a 944 N/A short block, and possibly crank or rods to rebuild my 951 engine? How hard is it to pull off such a "rebuild" on my own over say a month or two, or three?

Heh, anyone around SC intrested in a very nice 3.0 ltr 16 valve Complete 968 engine(computer and all), in return for a somewhat "built" 951 engine setup (W/O engine management)?

 

Sili, I have my intercooler mounted at the same location as the factory turbo S cars, so if you need help, let me know. Ideally, one should use the 968 bottom end and then turbo the car but it requires a few hard to find parts like a 2.7 Na head. Most o your 944 turbo plumbing will work but by you just swapping to a stock 944 turbo, you are not really getting any advantage unless you start modding it. The best part about of a 3.0 liter turbo is that there is zero lag. The car will drive around town like a standard 968 and when you get on gas, it will be wicked fast with gobs of torque.
I woudl keep the 6 speed but from the sound of it, you might have the dreaded pinion bearing problem.
Raj

 

silicondigital

I'm the one with the 2.85 liter short block for sale. This short block will easily cost you double to build yourself as this engine has ALL the expensive components installed as well as the waterpump, oil pump, timing gear/covers/belts, motor mounts, and a lot more... included and assembled. Furthermore, rebuilding your engine can easily run the cost of what I'm selling this short block for... and won't be 1/2 the engine with respect to performance and strength, and quality.

Also... it's very possible to use a 2.5 liter head on a 2.7/S2/968 block with a a water passage rework.

If you're interested, I've got a complete 2.7 liter head, assembled, with cam, lifters, and cam tower for sale as well. $1000 for the complete top end.

Also... with respect to the 2.85 liter short block... I've also got the head for that engine, which has larger valves, race valve springs, light retainers, Web Cam, extensive intake porting, custom cut down/reshaped valve guides, and a fresh T04E (T04E compressor with a KKK center section, and a Turbonetics KKK replica #6 hot side/turbine... just rebuilt and never installed).

I have a TON more stuff than I advertised... if you need anything.

 

I am going to build that 951 engine up a good bit before i put it in. All i really need extra are some injectors and a big turbo, im not up for spending 5 thousand dollars to reduce the compression on this 968 engine, unless that 2.7 head you have does this? if so what does it change the compression to? also does that 2.7 head bolt up to a 951 manifold? And do you know if a 944 N/A block, crank, and rods can be used for a 951? im pretty sure about the block, but is the crank and/or rods strong enough? Tony, how much do you want for that 2.85 951 block? What all has been done to it to make it 2.85 ltr? it come with a crank or rods, pistons? If not what kind will it need?

 

Also 968turboS, what is the "dreaded pinion bearing problem" i have a directly speed related whine coming from the rear end. Im going to check the fluid level and change it tomorrow and hope its just low or something.

 

Sili, that is exactly what it is. It is speed based and sounds like a jet engine before take-off. The factory screwed up on pretensioning the pinion bearing. Supposedly the robot was out of sync and it pretensioned it too much. Typical cost of a fix is close to $1500 or more depending on your shop of choice.
BTW, the 951 intake/exhaust manifolds will bolt on directly to a 2.7 head but the intake ports on a 2.7 head are oval and the intake manifold on a 951 has round ports. You will need to port match your intake manifold to the same oval design. I would suggest that if you can, buy a 2.85 shortblock. The beauty is that all the parts can be 951, you no longer need the 2.7 head and 951 heads are all over teh place. You might even be able to use yours. Everything else will be 951, you will have lower compression from the begining and trust me, it will be much cheaper and the displacement difference is not much between a 2.85 and 3.0.
You need to give this a long thought before you decide which direction to go or you will end up wasting money. With 2.85, no oil lines to tap on balance shaft or oil pan either.
Let me know if I can help further.
Raj

 

As luck has it, i think i just broke a balance shaft belt on my 968 today, so this project might happen a little quicker now. If the high frequency vibrations im getting right about 4k rpm arent either because of a slipped tooth or broken balance shaft belt, then the 968 engine is coming out a lot sooner. Im still planing to go the 951 engine rouit. What consists of a 2.85 shortblock? Also, again, does anyone have a 951 shortblock, or know if i can use a 944 N/A shortblock to build a 951 motor on?

 

Sili, sounds more like 1 tooth off on the timing belt. 968s use a hydraulic timing belt tenshioer and they can fail. Make sure you verify everything before you drive. Let me know if you need help. I am pretty familiar with them. You can post 968 specific questions on the 968 forum. I am usually there and its much easier to find a thread there.
Regards

 

968TS, do you mean the balance shaft belt? why would the timing belt cause it to vibrate real bad? I havent had time to mess with it much, tomorrow im going to take off the balance shaft belt and see what the shake does then, and mess with it from there. Anyone know how to tune in the balance shaft from "scratch"?

 

Yeah, I mean the timing belt. Ask me how I know. Our cars can run with 1 tooth off the timing belt but they don't like to rev past 4k and vibrate like crazy.
Use clarksgarage for the entire procedure from scratch. That is really the only way to know that you got it right and it was right in the first place. I had a similar problem with one of my prior cars where the balance shaft belt looked okay, but the pulley was off.

 

Ok, i still dont think its the timing belt. It seems to have no real loss of power, it will still rev right to redline even in gears. It just has a real bad vibration right at 4100rpm, today im going to screw with the balance shaft belt. I have no idea how to time the balance shaft belt or timing belt from scratch. I dont really understand what your talking about with that either 968turbo.

 

I did a little search and found www.clarks-garage.com, i know what your talking about now. Ive been away from the list for a while and hadent come across this site yet. Looks great so far.

 

Sorry for not pasting the link. Let me know if you need any further assistance.
Regards.

 

Fixed it today. Everything was in perfect time, but one of the motor mounts was so loose it looked like it was about to fall off, i tightened everything up and took it for a test drive, and the vibration was gone.