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Simply spray them down with PB blaster or similar penetrating oil and let it sit over night and use a big pipe wrench to turn them all loose. I used no heat or special order tools. Lowes 24in pipe wrench, $20.
The double nut trick works as well but I found some of the studs were just too stuck and the nut trick would just strip the threads off the stud.
I removed all but one stud out of a 2.7 block fairly easily with double nuts and penetrating fluid, just went back and forward to start. The last one needed a heat gun on the block to soften the thread lock. Not sure I'd risk the threads in the block using brute force...
Simply spray them down with PB blaster or similar penetrating oil and let it sit over night and use a big pipe wrench to turn them all loose. I used no heat or special order tools. Lowes 24in pipe wrench, $20.
The double nut trick works as well but I found some of the studs were just too stuck and the nut trick would just strip the threads off the stud.
That's how I did em...turned the block so the studs were parallel to the floor and cranked em out.
I had 4 of the studs come out with the double nut trick but they where pretty soaked in oil to start with from rotating the motor. Seems like there's always more oil coming from some where lol. Anywho, when I tried the double nut trick on the remaining ones it was just spinning both nuts. Of course I figured I need to snug them down more which ended up ripping the thread off. So I had a old pipe wrench, small with rounded teeth, and was able to get it out. So I went to Lowe's and got a new one that was fairly big and it made it cake turning the rest out. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. My tips would be to soak the studs overnight and slowly crack them loose the next day. That studs all came out and didn't damage the block. After some cleaning the threads on both the studs and block were good.
I'll be installing new studs so I wasn't too worried about damaging the old ones.
Well I'm a machinist so I have access to special taps but you can do it with a normal tap with a socket and extension on a rachet. Just find a socket that fits over the tap as tight as possible and fits the ID of the hole.
You can glue the tap to the socket so you can start the thread by hand then rachet it in carefully.
It's best to use a bottoming tap but if you don't have one you can cut/ grind the lead off of a regular tap. Also I like to use brake parts cleaner to remove as much as possible before tapping with oil or cutting coolant. The less work the tap has to do the less chance of an issue, or risk of a tap breaking.
I have been told by many people to use Extreme Pressure Lube. Seriously. I went out and bought red threadlocker thinking that was what needed to be used, but word is that a few reputable engine builders use EP Lube instead.
Simply spray them down with PB blaster or similar penetrating oil and let it sit over night and use a big pipe wrench to turn them all loose. I used no heat or special order tools. Lowes 24in pipe wrench, $20.
The double nut trick works as well but I found some of the studs were just too stuck and the nut trick would just strip the threads off the stud.
Gotta love those! I did the same thing to get a very stuck O2 sensor off my 89S. No regular wrench was strong enough to get it to budge, even with hear so I went and bought the biggest pipe wrench I could find at Home Depot and off it came!
How many of the stud holes have a channel leading elsewhere in the block? I've noticed the front left hole leads to a hole for the oil pump which seems odd?.
07-16-2016, 02:50 PM
The secret to head stud removal...
