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So I've decided to pull my engine out and now I'm ready to secure it to a stand for working on. Currently my engine still has the flywheel, clutch assembly and bell housing on it. I figured I'd have to remove everything besides possibly the flywheel to get it on the stand. Does anyone have any recommendations before attaching it to the stand? Ideally I'd like to attach it to the stand once, rebuild everything and remove it once. Any tips? What to do about the Crankbolt?
Loosen the crank bolt while it's still in the car... BTDT with it on the stand. Currently have a motor on the stand as well, I removed the flywheel though. Off hand, I can't remember if I had to though, but it certainly makes it less of a mass to handle and roll around.
Loosen the crank bolt while it's still in the car... BTDT with it on the stand. Currently have a motor on the stand as well, I removed the flywheel though. Off hand, I can't remember if I had to though, but it certainly makes it less of a mass to handle and roll around.
Thanks for the reply, Yeah I already have it out unfortunately, I'll probably still be able to attach the flywheel lock while it's on the floor and bust it loose. I may just have to secure it to something like a pallet with a rachet strap.... Besides the crank bolt is the anything else I should do before mounting it to the stand?
Depends on your stand, mine attaches where the bell housing goes. On my stand the fly wheel and all needs to come off before mounting it on the stand due to clearance. If you have a friend available have them hold back up on the fly wheel bolts and grab your impact wrench for the front bolt.
My stand like rlm328's also mounts where the bellhouse goes so no flywheel..etc. I believe mine is the same design as the 1000lb Harbor Freight Pittsburg stand. Some people like to remove the arms, spindle from the stand and attach all that stuff to the engine while its on the ground. Then instead of fiddling with the bolts and arms while the engine is floating in the air you can just focus on just getting the large spindle into the stand.
Big impact gun "should" work on the crank bolt, since you have access. Only tip I'd offer is to start sourcing the oddball M12 1.5 pitch bolts now. You are not likely to find them at a hardware store and the factory bolts are too long for many stands. Also make sure the stand allows you enough access to set the crank in place. The rear is obstructed, it can be tough to manage a 65 pound crank if you can't get a good grip on both ends. You can always do that first on the floor, then put it up on the stand if needed.
I used the front subframe bolts to mount the block to the stand, but I had the cheapo stand and the flywheel had to come off. I honestly wouldn't trust putting any more weight onto that thing than necessary. Having the engine all mounted up with everything, I said to myself "This [stand] will fail at any moment."
Big impact gun "should" work on the crank bolt, since you have access. Only tip I'd offer is to start sourcing the oddball M12 1.5 pitch bolts now. You are not likely to find them at a hardware store and the factory bolts are too long for many stands. Also make sure the stand allows you enough access to set the crank in place. The rear is obstructed, it can be tough to manage a 65 pound crank if you can't get a good grip on both ends. You can always do that first on the floor, then put it up on the stand if needed.
I couldn't get mine to budge with a 1/2" impact on a 100 psi / 5 CFM supply, I guess a PO torqued the snot out of it at one point.
WRT the mounting hardware, I found some at Lowes that worked. I had to use 2 or 3 thick washers (from the head maybe?) one 1 or 2, and 1 or 2 only have 80% thread engagement or so, but plenty to bear the weight. I remember I used some M12 bolts I had sitting around, and measured how much extra length I would need before going to Lowes.
I just wanted to post an update with some helpful pictures. I removed the engine without loosing the crank bolt...To remedy this situation I installed the flywheel lock and set the engine against the stand leg and loosened the crank bolt with a cheater bar (floor jack handle)
Next to get the flywheel removed I used vise grips lightly crimped on the side of the flywheel resting against the block casing.
Then it was time to mount the stand bracket to the block, note the center of the stand offset from the crank center
07-02-2016, 12:50 PM
944 turbo engine on a stand
