k27/8 7200 series
10-21-2003, 04:03 PM
#16
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Sorry for the delay on this.... no net at my new home yet.
My K27/8 was built by Carvelli at Technodyne for Paul Bloomberg's 1st motor. I bought it off him with 3000 miles on it when he decided to break 400rwhp. It has a fresh 26 center, 27 hot and cold sides with clipped wheels. The indicator plate has .54a/r ground into it, so it should be 7200 compressor with a stock 964 compressor wheel.
Comparing my Huntley K26/8 Cheater and the K27/8, lag is about the same. (although I did not have hard pipes with the K26) The kick in the *** at 3500 is night and day diffrent, as well as power.
K26/8 Boost:
1500 - 3.5psi
2200 - 5.5psi
2600 - 7.5psi
2900 - 11.0psi
3100 - 15.0psi
6000 - 14.5psi
K27/8 Boost
1500 - 1.0psi
2200 - 3.5psi
2600 - 7.0psi
2900 - 9.0psi
3100 - 13.0psi
3300 - 15.0psi
6000 - 15.0psi
Here are my charts.. tuned as good as I can get it without a dyno.
K26/8, 15psi, APE Stage 2 Chips, Exhaust, Stock Fuel
K26/8, 18psi, APE Stage 2 Chips, Exhaust, Huntley Stage 3 MAF, AFR@35psi, 32lb injectors
K27/8, 9psi, Technodyne Chips, Exhaust, Hard Pipes, Huntley Stage 3 MAF, AFR@29psi, 55lb injectors,
K27/8, 15psi, Technodyne Chips, Exhaust, Hard Pipes, Huntley Stage 3 MAF, AFR@31psi, 55lb injectors,
Boomberg hit 330rwhp at 18psi, I did it at 15psi. I think the most you will get out of a K27/8 is going to be about 350 at 20-22psi.
For daily driving, it's a perfect match for my style. It's got enough lag to help me keep my foot out of it, and enough thrust to put most anything to shame if needed. On a short AX course, 2nd gear was still matched very well with it. Anything below 2500 and it's a slug, but you should rev these motors anyway.
Hope that helps!!
My K27/8 was built by Carvelli at Technodyne for Paul Bloomberg's 1st motor. I bought it off him with 3000 miles on it when he decided to break 400rwhp. It has a fresh 26 center, 27 hot and cold sides with clipped wheels. The indicator plate has .54a/r ground into it, so it should be 7200 compressor with a stock 964 compressor wheel.
Comparing my Huntley K26/8 Cheater and the K27/8, lag is about the same. (although I did not have hard pipes with the K26) The kick in the *** at 3500 is night and day diffrent, as well as power.
K26/8 Boost:
1500 - 3.5psi
2200 - 5.5psi
2600 - 7.5psi
2900 - 11.0psi
3100 - 15.0psi
6000 - 14.5psi
K27/8 Boost
1500 - 1.0psi
2200 - 3.5psi
2600 - 7.0psi
2900 - 9.0psi
3100 - 13.0psi
3300 - 15.0psi
6000 - 15.0psi
Here are my charts.. tuned as good as I can get it without a dyno.
K26/8, 15psi, APE Stage 2 Chips, Exhaust, Stock Fuel
K26/8, 18psi, APE Stage 2 Chips, Exhaust, Huntley Stage 3 MAF, AFR@35psi, 32lb injectors
K27/8, 9psi, Technodyne Chips, Exhaust, Hard Pipes, Huntley Stage 3 MAF, AFR@29psi, 55lb injectors,
K27/8, 15psi, Technodyne Chips, Exhaust, Hard Pipes, Huntley Stage 3 MAF, AFR@31psi, 55lb injectors,
Boomberg hit 330rwhp at 18psi, I did it at 15psi. I think the most you will get out of a K27/8 is going to be about 350 at 20-22psi.
For daily driving, it's a perfect match for my style. It's got enough lag to help me keep my foot out of it, and enough thrust to put most anything to shame if needed. On a short AX course, 2nd gear was still matched very well with it. Anything below 2500 and it's a slug, but you should rev these motors anyway.
Hope that helps!!
10-22-2003, 02:13 PM
#21
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All dyno runs were with a hollow cat or test pipe.
Blitz, I think my additional power is a combination of my fresh motor and tuning. With the road dyno, you take a baseline run (while you are on a real dyno to compare) and you have a starting point. My charts should be within a few HP/TQ of a Dynojet. Even if it was off 30hp, you'll still have a starting point.
Here is my 1st run with the car set pretty rich. (to be safe)
290hp 320tq
Once you have a starting point, you start leaning it out little by little, recording your run and A/F. Run 2:
324HP 328TQ
Leaned this one a little much:
323HP 324TQ
Finally hit my target:
329HP 331 TQ
Proper tuning can really add some power. I'd still like to get it back on a dyno and plot my AF over the chart. With the setup I have now, it's not worth trying to fine tune it. Hopefully TT and Fast951 will have the Motronics Live Tune Module done soon.... then I'll see what this baby can do.
Blitz, I think my additional power is a combination of my fresh motor and tuning. With the road dyno, you take a baseline run (while you are on a real dyno to compare) and you have a starting point. My charts should be within a few HP/TQ of a Dynojet. Even if it was off 30hp, you'll still have a starting point.
Here is my 1st run with the car set pretty rich. (to be safe)
290hp 320tq
Once you have a starting point, you start leaning it out little by little, recording your run and A/F. Run 2:
324HP 328TQ
Leaned this one a little much:
323HP 324TQ
Finally hit my target:
329HP 331 TQ
Proper tuning can really add some power. I'd still like to get it back on a dyno and plot my AF over the chart. With the setup I have now, it's not worth trying to fine tune it. Hopefully TT and Fast951 will have the Motronics Live Tune Module done soon.... then I'll see what this baby can do.
10-22-2003, 03:38 PM
#23
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Yup.. stock cam, stock head. I have a 5 angle grind that is good for a few HP, but nothing special up there.
I built this car to be a fun driver, do some races, win some shows, not to shread the tires at every light. The power goal I set over 3 years ago was 330hp at no more than 20psi, so I was quite happy when I did it.
It's a good street turbo, and if you are happy with that kind of power, it will suit you well. Trust me, 329hp and 331tq hitting the ground is enough to cause some serious trouble. I don't know how some of you are running damn near 400hp on your daily drivers.
I built this car to be a fun driver, do some races, win some shows, not to shread the tires at every light. The power goal I set over 3 years ago was 330hp at no more than 20psi, so I was quite happy when I did it.
It's a good street turbo, and if you are happy with that kind of power, it will suit you well. Trust me, 329hp and 331tq hitting the ground is enough to cause some serious trouble. I don't know how some of you are running damn near 400hp on your daily drivers.
10-22-2003, 04:40 PM
#25
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I use a product called the Road Dyno. You can read about it here:
http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm
It's a simple accelerometer that uses ignition pulses as it's data source. Inputting weight, drag, gear ratios, tire sizes, temp, barometer, etc. into the program allows it to figure out how far and fast you are moving. There are several people who have run the data capture while on a Dynojet and have had results within a few HP of what the dyno showed.
I use it as a tool rather than a hard core power output. As long as you have a base line sample, you continue to tune until power begins to fall off, then richen it a touch to bring it back to your target. Of course you need to monitor A/F and boost to get the proper tune, but as long as you have all the tools, you don't need a dyno. (other than data capture and graph overlays)
http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm
It's a simple accelerometer that uses ignition pulses as it's data source. Inputting weight, drag, gear ratios, tire sizes, temp, barometer, etc. into the program allows it to figure out how far and fast you are moving. There are several people who have run the data capture while on a Dynojet and have had results within a few HP of what the dyno showed.
I use it as a tool rather than a hard core power output. As long as you have a base line sample, you continue to tune until power begins to fall off, then richen it a touch to bring it back to your target. Of course you need to monitor A/F and boost to get the proper tune, but as long as you have all the tools, you don't need a dyno. (other than data capture and graph overlays)
