Side exit race exhaust
10-17-2003, 07:04 PM
#16
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just get a lindsey kit,the first one i think,straight pipe all the way and open wastegate!ill be getting the test pipe w/o wg tie in,this will be interesting!
10-18-2003, 12:33 PM
#18
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Originally posted by shortyboy
just get a lindsey kit,the first one i think,straight pipe all the way and open wastegate!ill be getting the test pipe w/o wg tie in,this will be interesting!
just get a lindsey kit,the first one i think,straight pipe all the way and open wastegate!ill be getting the test pipe w/o wg tie in,this will be interesting!
Sure you will save some money now but what will you do in six months when your mild steel pipe rusts and falls apart from the salt water?
10-18-2003, 03:58 PM
#19
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Norm,
I'll be at VIR in November, instructing.
Tim,
The Lindsey aluminized carbon system will go at least 2 years in the salt belt as a daily driver. Keep it out of the salt and it might go as long as 5 years. A friend has had a set of aluminized carbon steel headers on his 911 for 3 years.
If you are worrying about sag resistance then 304L/321 is the way to go hands down.
Alan C.
I'll be at VIR in November, instructing.
Tim,
The Lindsey aluminized carbon system will go at least 2 years in the salt belt as a daily driver. Keep it out of the salt and it might go as long as 5 years. A friend has had a set of aluminized carbon steel headers on his 911 for 3 years.
If you are worrying about sag resistance then 304L/321 is the way to go hands down.
Alan C.
10-19-2003, 02:38 PM
#20
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Alan,
You could be right about the life of the carbon system but......a turbocharger system is subjected to alot more heat then headers on an N/A. It looks as though there are many untreated welds on the mild steel testpipe which will be the first to rust and possibly crack.This is my concern.I think the mild steel cat-back will have a much longer life then the testpipe because it doesnt have any welds except near the hangers.Take care.
You could be right about the life of the carbon system but......a turbocharger system is subjected to alot more heat then headers on an N/A. It looks as though there are many untreated welds on the mild steel testpipe which will be the first to rust and possibly crack.This is my concern.I think the mild steel cat-back will have a much longer life then the testpipe because it doesnt have any welds except near the hangers.Take care.
10-19-2003, 09:07 PM
#21
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Tim,
The cat back portion may be the worst case. That section is more likely to be subjected to condensate corrosion. If a muffler is attached at the end it will make a great catch can for condensate on short drives.
Unprotected welds is an issue. The better tubers will flame spray the high frequency weld on the mill. However, as you noted the hangers can be an issue. A good quality aluminum bearing high temp paint will help.
Have you ever thought of building a cat back mandrel bent system out of aluminized 409 stainless? It would be a 7 year minimum system. The straight tube should be a lot cheaper than 304L or 321. You can MIG the sections with no problems. 409Ni makes a good hanger bracket material for aluminized 409.
Alan C.
The cat back portion may be the worst case. That section is more likely to be subjected to condensate corrosion. If a muffler is attached at the end it will make a great catch can for condensate on short drives.
Unprotected welds is an issue. The better tubers will flame spray the high frequency weld on the mill. However, as you noted the hangers can be an issue. A good quality aluminum bearing high temp paint will help.
Have you ever thought of building a cat back mandrel bent system out of aluminized 409 stainless? It would be a 7 year minimum system. The straight tube should be a lot cheaper than 304L or 321. You can MIG the sections with no problems. 409Ni makes a good hanger bracket material for aluminized 409.
Alan C.
10-19-2003, 10:12 PM
#22
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Hey - I just did this last week on a track 951. From the downpipe flange, I used Burns Stainless for a 2&3/4 to 3" adaptor, then to oval. Mitred the oval to get the bend at the bottom to run parallel to the floorpan, welded in a 45 degree bend, and oval to just in front of the drivers side rear wheel. All told, it probably ran close to $400 in stainless parts (that 16 gague oval is something like $28 / ft.), and it took a couple days screwing around to get it right.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to hearing it.. The look is cool. And $499 doesn't sound that bad given the material costs.
Bob
Anyway, I'm looking forward to hearing it.. The look is cool. And $499 doesn't sound that bad given the material costs.
Bob
09-07-2004, 08:03 AM
#24
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maybe I am rice but, a side exited exhaust would be cool I think. I guess I would have to hear it first but, shooting flame's out the side would be kinda of neat and different.
Keep up updated on it. I am with Todd on this one.
Keep up updated on it. I am with Todd on this one.
09-07-2004, 11:03 AM
#26
Dont buy that cheap POS that doest seal properly. Buy a quality product.
http://www.dmhperformance.com/ecutout.htm
As for the side exhaust, the only way i'd do one is if I bought those rockers from GT Racing I've wanted and did it up like the DTM Racecars (or Dado from DTMpower.net) has their side exhaust.
http://www.dmhperformance.com/ecutout.htm
As for the side exhaust, the only way i'd do one is if I bought those rockers from GT Racing I've wanted and did it up like the DTM Racecars (or Dado from DTMpower.net) has their side exhaust.
