Notices
944 Turbo and Turbo-S Forum 1982-1991
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Clore Automotive

Head Stud Lengths

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-02-2016, 08:13 PM
  #16  
refresh951
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
refresh951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

211 mm worked perfectly
Old 05-02-2016, 08:31 PM
  #17  
Bill
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: A suburb of Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by refresh951
What was the torque value that caused the studs to pull? I have had good success with 87 ftib torque value on 8V heads. I have heard up to 100 ftlbs without inserts but cannot confirm that.
The Lindsey website recommends 75 ft lbs for low boost and 85 ft lbs for high boost. Mine is torqued to 85 ft lbs, running 22 psi for years now.
Old 05-06-2016, 01:36 AM
  #18  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 45,547
Received 647 Likes on 501 Posts
Default

Can anyone check their torqued down head, and tell me how many threads are exposed above the top of the nut?

My 16v head on an 86 block, not torqued yet, the stud is about even/level with the nut.

Last edited by V2Rocket; 05-06-2016 at 10:05 AM.
Old 05-06-2016, 11:54 AM
  #19  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 534 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by V2Rocket
Can anyone check their torqued down head, and tell me how many threads are exposed above the top of the nut?

My 16v head on an 86 block, not torqued yet, the stud is about even/level with the nut.
From memory, it's pretty close on a factory car, with the top of the stud clearly crowning above the nut with maybe one thread exposed. Where did you set the stud height? Keep in mind the head will settle down on the locating pins a bit, and a standard style gasket will crush a bit. My guess is you'll pick up enough when you torque it if its even now -- but my guessing won't buy you a new gasket if I'm wrong As long as the nut is fully engaged on fully formed threads, you should be good.
Old 05-06-2016, 12:15 PM
  #20  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 45,547
Received 647 Likes on 501 Posts
Default

studs are original to the block - haven't touched them.

would there be any concern using a thinner head washer, say 0.5mm thinner, to get more thread through?
Old 05-06-2016, 01:15 PM
  #21  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 534 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by V2Rocket
studs are original to the block - haven't touched them.

would there be any concern using a thinner head washer, say 0.5mm thinner, to get more thread through?
Have you measured the head to see if the distance from the deck to the washer landing is the same on this head as on an 8 valve head? If so, unless you are using a thicker than normal head gasket, you should be fine. The factory washers fit into their landings with some precision, so not sure if the thinner washers you might find would fit like that, and just don't know if that would impact overall stability. If the studs are long enough, and if really needed, you might be better off getting a collet stud remover (snap-on) and backing each stud out one thread or so to make them a little taller.
Old 05-17-2016, 04:03 PM
  #22  
67King
Race Car
 
67King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 3,641
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Anyone have a part number for the 211mm studs? Apparently from a 944S (thanks, Shawn!). But the PET does not differentiate, it specs a 944101194700, which is for the 2Vs, and only gives 2 threads of engagement.
Old 05-18-2016, 12:15 AM
  #23  
michaelmount123
Rennlist Member
 
michaelmount123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 1,075
Received 219 Likes on 138 Posts
Default

I can't help with the part no., Harry, but I have one or two sets of the 211mm studs if needed.
Old 05-18-2016, 11:22 AM
  #24  
67King
Race Car
 
67King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 3,641
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Alright, so I keep finding out all these weird pieces of info. Turns out I don't need the 211mm studs, I only needed the regular 2.5L 2V/Turbo studs. Which is good. I have those. And they are easier to find, anyway.

Here is what goes on. The 3.0L 16V heads (S2 and 968) have a head bolt column* thickness of approximately 74mm. The 8V (turbo) and 2.5L 16V (S) heads have a thickness of approximately 55mm. So I was told a couple of pieces of wrong info by a pretty darn knowledgeable guy who I inherently trust (not MM - and I am not disparaging the guy, more making excuses for my own failings, here).

* - Column.....not sure of the nomenclature, but that is the distance from the deck face of the head to the machined pad for the fastener (washer/nut with studs, or washer bolt head w/ bolts) on the head.

Now, the blocks, too, are different. The 100mm bore blocks have MUCH deeper head stud provisions. You can see it in the castings, see attached.

So it turns out that the head stud requirements are not driven by the heads (as I'd been led to believe), but moreso by the blocks, with the S' head following the 8V head requirements, rather than the 16V head requirements.

All of this also explains why Shawn needed longer head studs. Long block + tall column. Now where those 211mm head studs came from? I have no clue. I'm just glad that I don't need 'em.

FWIW, my block is an 86 (and I did drill and tap it to accept the tensionser for the 16V belt), though the PET calls otu the same part numbers for all of the 100mm bore blocks. So I don't think it changed anywhere with the new block in 87.

It is kind of easy to see how this happened. I deal with a lot of SP3 cars. I am only familiar with one other 944S that has run SP3. All others are turbo (100mm/8V) or S2/968 (104mm/16V). So I've never run across an S head before. But at the end of the day, measure twice, cut once. And the PET is pretty darn reliable, even if the service manual may lack a piece of info (as the case with the 16V supplement). And even if you think you know everything, you probably don't.
Attached Images   
Old 05-18-2016, 12:55 PM
  #25  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 534 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Here are my old measurements for factory stud lengths, which are all +/- a few mm probably (i.e., MM's measurements might be more accurate above).

944 turbo studs: 190mm
968 studs: 165mm
89 2.7 n/a studs: 150mm

Porsche listed an installed height of 94mm for the 968 heads. To corroborate King's findings, he says the 16v heads are about 20mm +/- taller from deck to landing than the 8v heads. No surprise then that the 968 stud height is about 20mm+/- higher than the installed height for a 944 turbo.

That also supports King when he says the 100mm blocks have deeper holes. If a 968 stud is 165 end to end, and stands 94mm above the deck, then that means it sits 71mm below the deck. If a 951 stud is 190mm end to end and stands 72mm above the deck, then that means it sits 118mm below the deck, which is nearly 2 inches deeper.

Not sure where the 211mm studs fit in, but presume Porsche made some blocks with even deeper holes.

Those numbers also explain why you can't use 968 studs when putting an 8v head on an a 104mm block (like for example in an '89 2.7L motor). If the hole is 71mm deep, and the head is 55mm tall as King says, then that's only 127mm (if you add a mm for the gasket). That's why Porsche made the special 150mm studs for the 89 2.7 motor. And it explains why, if you try using a 165mm long 968 studs in a 104mm block with an 8v head, it will look like this.
Attached Images  
Old 05-18-2016, 02:04 PM
  #26  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 45,547
Received 647 Likes on 501 Posts
Default

that's gonna need a lot of washers.
Old 05-18-2016, 02:45 PM
  #27  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 534 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by V2Rocket
that's gonna need a lot of washers.
Very thick head gasket took care of it no problem.
Old 05-18-2016, 05:54 PM
  #28  
refresh951
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
refresh951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 67King
The 8V (turbo) and 2.5L 16V (S) heads have a thickness of approximately 55mm.
This is different than what I thought. I thought the 2.5L 16V (S) head was also 74 mm. Thus they used the 211 mm stud (long block + long head). Just an assumption however because I do not have 16V (S) stuff to measure. Sorry for the bad info Harry

If you are correct, the question remains, what were the 211 mm head studs used on?
Old 05-18-2016, 07:08 PM
  #29  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 45,547
Received 647 Likes on 501 Posts
Default

Just a thought...remember how there were early 944S heads that had cracking problems on the stud holes, and how Porsche revised the casting (without changing the PN) to fix it?

Maybe the thickness difference is in there.



Quick Reply: Head Stud Lengths



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 04:31 PM.