numbskull

Oh, so you are planning to remove the cam sprocket to replace the seal? If I remember correctly use the cheesehead tool for the cam bolt, and there is a large nut on the sprocket you put a big wrench on to use for leverage. I do not think moving it a few mm during that struggle will really destroy anything. If the cam tower is coming off anyway for seal you can remove the cam on the bench but leverage might be more difficult. Make sure to replace the cam bolt , anything cheesehead replace without question.

dykaar

Yes, one of the FCP kits includes a cheesehead bolt.

Did you pull the rad to get more room to work?

I still think its safer to loosen the cam gear wile the belts are on. That way there's no risk of hitting valves if I slip. I know I will slip if the penalty for slipping is bending a valve. That's Murpjy's Law 101.

Regards,

doug

86 951 (http://pcaucr.org/media/image-galler...ll&gallery=224)
01 E320 (W210) 4matic Wagon (http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...body-do-2.html)
00 540i-6 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...hp?albumid=976)
94 855 turbo Wagon (sold in 09)
85 535i-5 (sold in 07)
76 300D (sold in 92)
83 944 (sold in 86)
I apparently only buy cars designated by numbers

numbskull

Sure, if you are that worried about it loosen the cam bolt with cam belt on. I've replaced the cam seal a few times and no real worries with big wrenches in hand. My worry is always the cam belt bolt that screws into the block snapping or stripped water pump threads. Last time I hit the wp bolts up with a torch a bit to remove, and cleaned the block threads with a tiny wire brush to get old silicone out.