Mike Lindsey

You may want to call SPEC directly and get a price on relining your disc.
Their number is 800-828-4379. They are still there today if you call now.

The Stage II Kevlar is the fussiest of their discs on break in. Need a fresh flywheel surface, new PP, no contamination, and go through their complete break in process. In particular if you are near or at the power limit of the kit. If you glaze it, they say pull it and have it relined or replaced because it won't come back. You're not running a stage II, but you are half of one.

Bladed-vaults

Did some shopping and found this I'm sure the cup disc is more than up to handling his car.. my worry is the center. They say this doesn't include the. O.E. 6 spring center. Does the 4 spring still match up?
http://www.paragon-products.com/Pors...116.011.07.htm

pole position

Relining that Spec is $ 350 plus......

lart951

that kit was in my lartmobile #4 which was the car with the engine built by Neil Harvey at Performance Developments in Costa mesa, which ended up dropping the oil pressure due to a fail freeze plug that came off loose, if failed after having the car dynoed only the 2nd time at 359rwhp@18psi what I fail to understand is how that clutch from a car that I personally drove and it has less than 2k miles is now through pictures of the internet not good anymore? 1st and 2nd gear were useless in my car with 275's in the rear it would break the tires loose and after that it grabbed like hell, it's impossible that now after it was removed is suddenly useless?, I thought spec products were supposed to be good if after 2k miles that clutch is bad what can I say?


This car, this was the 1st dyno

3rd gear pull

low oil pressure failure

failed freeze plug and damage to piston

mel_t_vin

That cup disc will work fine.

The 6 smaller springs on the OE disc are for removing driveline lash/vibration, similar in function to the rubber center of the 944 disc. Without those 6 springs, there will be some additional [noticeable but not excessive] lash/vibration in the driveline.

If your friend is interested, I have an OE disc w/6 springs, ~12k miles, separated from an engine for rebuild, in my spare parts bin. Should have a spare OE flywheel, or two, as well.

Humboldtgrin

I'll trade you a slightly used stock disc for that burnt spec disc. If Luis said its good then it's good! That's what I've noticed about him. Very stand up seller! He'll by it back if you think you'll have a problem. Just don't abuse his return policy. He will remember because it cost him not you. I've returned a pair of rear Koni shocks back to him that I thought were bad but we're in perfect working condition. That cost me, one new adjustible Koni was twice what he wanted for two used Koni's in great working order.
Side question, does his chain of command think he's dealing regarding him driving a Porsche 951? I was given all kinds of crap by my whole chain of command. They thought I was the king pin guy because I'm from NorCal. In reality I sold my soul to my grandma in order to barrow the $7k for my first 86 951. I'm still paying for it 16 years later!

Bladed-vaults

He is an e6 and they figure he has his big boy pants on he knows what he's doing. And before the divorce I had assumed he could handle the costs of a 951 as well. Though he has made some less than savory choices obviously with maintaining.
I had my 951 prior to enlisting and I catch hell everywhere on go "I bet you pay 30% interest, your an idiot for buying that" ect.


I sent him all the info I could and put the options on the table. I guess we will see what he chooses. Honestly from what I have seen of Lart and how much trust this forum has in him I won't argue if he chooses to just keep the used clutch. Pulled from a running car with less than 2k from a seller with 100% feedback... if he does decide to go with the cup I'll keep this 3+ as a backup for myself.

Bladed-vaults

so update. after a huge field op we finally got a 4 day weekend.. so work began today.
put in about 8 hours. trans is out starter, wastegate removed. I have never had to remove the crossover pipe on this clutch job before i notice alot of people do?

we called it a day at removing the torque tube from the bell housing because we ran into a problem I've never had before. and i wish i had taken pictures while i was still under the car.
The torque tube itself will slide back, but the shaft itself remains stuck in the bellhousing... wont slide back out of the clutch assembly.. I am no superman but i am by no means weak handed and no matter what i do to try and pull the shaft out it wont budge.

anyone have any advice, did a search and all i really get is huge walkthroughs that tell me what i already know.

Bladed-vaults

So another update. Torque tube needs rebuilding. Lucky I have everything for that already, will begin tomorrow.
Got the old clutch out and now it gets interesting.

For anyone following this I had said this guy had his clutch done at a shop a year or so ago. My buddy ordered a standard clutch kit nothing fancy..... when we got in here it had a special 2 or some such... the clutch that was in it from the get go.. which explains why a year after a "clutch job" it's gone.. old boy at no name shop never even did the job, just charged my buddy.
The shop has been closed for about 8 months now (go figure).

That all being said here's what I just pulled out of this poor car





So at this point everyone who was worried about the used clutch having a short life.... it's still leaps and bounds above this... the flywheel side is completely gone.. and the flywheel was trashed (lucky we got a nice lightened flywheel huh

This is it going back in