Let's talk CV joint preservation...
#1
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As suspected, I confirmed this morning that my tranny-side CV cage broke on the driver side. You can see where the ball bearings hammered the cage hard. Fortunately, everything else seems fine. Obligatory picture below...
I'm inclined to pop new axles in for now, but am interested in options for longer-term reliability on higher-HP cars.
Would be interested to here experiences, pros/cons, good sources for:
--urethane reinforced tranny mount
--solid tranny mount
--other mount options?
--reinforcement bar/plate on tranny to chassis
--stronger axles (and which ones?)
--other options?
I'm inclined to pop new axles in for now, but am interested in options for longer-term reliability on higher-HP cars.
Would be interested to here experiences, pros/cons, good sources for:
--urethane reinforced tranny mount
--solid tranny mount
--other mount options?
--reinforcement bar/plate on tranny to chassis
--stronger axles (and which ones?)
--other options?
#2
Rennlist Member
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I would think you do as much as you can from that list Tom. You may not know what saves you in the future by doing more than one mod at a time but what does it matter? Except for the expensive LR options ($1200+) everything there is cheap insurance. We went with the LR ones and V1.0 were no good. They since upgraded them and so far so good. No hard launches by us though. Not sure what cages XSChop offers? Price is a lot cheaper. Maybe contact him and/or The Driveshaft shop directly. I tried T.D.S. and had a poor experience but that was via email.
#3
Rainman
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The urethane mount trick makes a huge huge difference in how firmly mounted the trans is. Stock mount, you can grab the trans by hand and wiggle an inch or more to each side.
Urethane mount, no play.
There is no appreciable change in vibration or noise to the cabin.
You can find my walk through with pictures in an old thread if you search... Takes about 30 minutes of work and $35 of material.
Urethane mount, no play.
There is no appreciable change in vibration or noise to the cabin.
You can find my walk through with pictures in an old thread if you search... Takes about 30 minutes of work and $35 of material.
As suspected, I confirmed this morning that my tranny-side CV cage broke on the driver side. You can see where the ball bearings hammered the cage hard. Fortunately, everything else seems fine. Obligatory picture below...
I'm inclined to pop new axles in for now, but am interested in options for longer-term reliability on higher-HP cars.
Would be interested to here experiences, pros/cons, good sources for:
--urethane reinforced tranny mount
--solid tranny mount
--other mount options?
--reinforcement bar/plate on tranny to chassis
--stronger axles (and which ones?)
--other options?
I'm inclined to pop new axles in for now, but am interested in options for longer-term reliability on higher-HP cars.
Would be interested to here experiences, pros/cons, good sources for:
--urethane reinforced tranny mount
--solid tranny mount
--other mount options?
--reinforcement bar/plate on tranny to chassis
--stronger axles (and which ones?)
--other options?
#4
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I put a LR ultra mount on mine because of clutch chatter (six puck). Made a huge difference. Just another option. not a bad compromise if you don't want solid mount cabin noise.
#5
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I run similar power and I took the following approach based on Sid's drag experience. I have had great success and it is low cost:
1) Kelly Mount
2) EMPI Cages (EMPI 90-6805) with OEM shafts.
1) Kelly Mount
2) EMPI Cages (EMPI 90-6805) with OEM shafts.
#6
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Do you believe the EMPI cages to be stronger or better built, or was is primarily the price that pushed you in that direction?
#7
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It was a lesser quality cage, boot and possibly axle. Can't quite remember all the details. They had a few sets out there and as far as I'm aware, most were changed over when failures started to occur.
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#8
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#9
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Re the Kelly Mount, I see that some guys remove the mount, wrap it in tape, and pour the urethane into the mount. Whereas other guys leave the mount in the cross-member, create dams on the sides, and fill the whole cross-member. The latter seems stronger, but curious if there are known pros and cons of doing it one way vs. the other?
Anyone here try these Pelican super mounts (with rubber isolators)?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg3.htm#item10
Anyone here try these Pelican super mounts (with rubber isolators)?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg3.htm#item10
#10
Rainman
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Re the Kelly Mount, I see that some guys remove the mount, wrap it in tape, and pour the urethane into the mount. Whereas other guys leave the mount in the cross-member, create dams on the sides, and fill the whole cross-member. The latter seems stronger, but curious if there are known pros and cons of doing it one way vs. the other?
Anyone here try these Pelican super mounts (with rubber isolators)?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg3.htm#item10
Anyone here try these Pelican super mounts (with rubber isolators)?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg3.htm#item10
In the event you don't like it, you may have to replace your whole cross-bar or spend a lot of time digging out the urethane, if you do it in place.
#11
Three Wheelin'
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I run the lindsey ultra transmission mount. Definitely some more noise but nothing crazy. I'm not running near the power you guys are, but lots of track time. Tom what is the rest of your rear setup with? I've always wondered if having a stiffer transmission mount and removing any other rubber back there keeps the relationship between the shafts, the transmission and the trailing arms more "constant" and happy? The rear on my car is all elephant racing and racers edge bronze/spherical/solid.
#12
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I run semisolid engine and trans mounts. Still managed to break a cage recently on a cardone remanufactured axle. The cardone lasted several years at 300+ hp with the semisolids. I recently replaced the joints with EMPI 98-5084. These have chromoly cages. I don't expect to have any more issues.
--
Rory Crane
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Rory Crane
#13
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I run the lindsey ultra transmission mount. Definitely some more noise but nothing crazy. I'm not running near the power you guys are, but lots of track time. Tom what is the rest of your rear setup with? I've always wondered if having a stiffer transmission mount and removing any other rubber back there keeps the relationship between the shafts, the transmission and the trailing arms more "constant" and happy? The rear on my car is all elephant racing and racers edge bronze/spherical/solid.
#14
Three Wheelin'
#15
Nordschleife Master
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Also running the Lindsey Ultra Mount, increased noise isnt too bad. Didnt even notice it with my 3", no cat 2.5L.
No issues now with V8 powerband either, just need to remember always roll on the throttle. Tires are 275 width Falken RT615's or Conti summer tires. Something more sticky may pose problems down the road.
No issues now with V8 powerband either, just need to remember always roll on the throttle. Tires are 275 width Falken RT615's or Conti summer tires. Something more sticky may pose problems down the road.
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