944 CV Joint Gaskets?
#1
Racer
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944 CV Joint Gaskets?
I'm getting the occasional clunk going around corners. I'm going to do the quick axle reversal for now, and probably replace the axles in the spring.
Question: I don't see CV joint gaskets listed anywhere on parts sites or in the parts diagram (Pelican, 944Online, etc.). Do the 944 CV joints not use a paper gasket between the CV joint and the hub/flange? I've replaced CVs on 911s and 914s and they use the gasket, so I was expecting one here as well.
Thanks.
Roger
Question: I don't see CV joint gaskets listed anywhere on parts sites or in the parts diagram (Pelican, 944Online, etc.). Do the 944 CV joints not use a paper gasket between the CV joint and the hub/flange? I've replaced CVs on 911s and 914s and they use the gasket, so I was expecting one here as well.
Thanks.
Roger
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#4
I changed both my half shafts last year and I recall the replacements having a paper gasket.
I ended up exchanging mine at the local O'Reillys autoparts store. The shafts for the 944 and 951 are the same size as some Volkswagens. They kept one rebuilt unit in stock at the local warehouse. With a core exchange the entire rebuilt half shaft was fairly affordable. I'd have to dig into my records but I think it was in the $100-$150 range. Haven't had any problems with them so far, despite the shafts having VW part #s. The kit included new boots, grease, and gaskets. The only separate item I had to purchase was lock-tite to ensure the bolts didn't back out after re-assembly.
I ended up exchanging mine at the local O'Reillys autoparts store. The shafts for the 944 and 951 are the same size as some Volkswagens. They kept one rebuilt unit in stock at the local warehouse. With a core exchange the entire rebuilt half shaft was fairly affordable. I'd have to dig into my records but I think it was in the $100-$150 range. Haven't had any problems with them so far, despite the shafts having VW part #s. The kit included new boots, grease, and gaskets. The only separate item I had to purchase was lock-tite to ensure the bolts didn't back out after re-assembly.
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I know they aren't that expensive. I found the Cardone rebuilt axles at Rockauto for only $70 ea, no core. I realize I should just order them and be done with it. But I have a few grand in maintenance/repairs between several other vehicles in the fleet, so I'm pushing it off until next spring. I can swap the axles around in 20 min.
Roger
Roger
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#8
Drifting
No, take the inside cv joint and flip it on the same end. Then swap outer housings and don't flip them. Keep the axle in the same spot. im pretty sure that's how I did mine.
#9
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My understanding is that you want to essentially reverse the rotation of the axle/cv joint assembly. This allows the loading when travelling forward to now be applied to the surfaces that previously saw load only in reverse. To achieve this, it would seem the simplest approach would be to either flip the axles, and keep them on their original side (moving inner to outer). Or to swap the axles without flipping them (keeping inner to inner on the new side). In either case, the axle/cv will be rotating in reverse from its previous direction. You would not have to remove the cv joints from the axle assembly.
What am I missing here?
Thanks.
Roger
#10
Drifting
You'll see when you go to do it. If you flip the inside ones where they are they won't see any previous wear locations. Clean them up an sit and play with them for a few minutes and you'll find the right combo that has the ball bearings on new surfaces in forwards and reverse.
#11
Three Wheelin'
I think I'm confusing myself here.
My understanding is that you want to essentially reverse the rotation of the axle/cv joint assembly. This allows the loading when travelling forward to now be applied to the surfaces that previously saw load only in reverse. To achieve this, it would seem the simplest approach would be to either flip the axles, and keep them on their original side (moving inner to outer). Or to swap the axles without flipping them (keeping inner to inner on the new side). In either case, the axle/cv will be rotating in reverse from its previous direction. You would not have to remove the cv joints from the axle assembly.
What am I missing here?
Thanks.
Roger
My understanding is that you want to essentially reverse the rotation of the axle/cv joint assembly. This allows the loading when travelling forward to now be applied to the surfaces that previously saw load only in reverse. To achieve this, it would seem the simplest approach would be to either flip the axles, and keep them on their original side (moving inner to outer). Or to swap the axles without flipping them (keeping inner to inner on the new side). In either case, the axle/cv will be rotating in reverse from its previous direction. You would not have to remove the cv joints from the axle assembly.
What am I missing here?
Thanks.
Roger
Think of this analogy: a right-hand thread is still a right-hand thread, even when you flip it end-for-end.
The torque on the lefthand axle is righty-tighty, the torque on the righthand axle is lefty-loosey.
Cheers,
Mike
#12
Three Wheelin'
You'll see when you go to do it. If you flip the inside ones where they are they won't see any previous wear locations. Clean them up an sit and play with them for a few minutes and you'll find the right combo that has the ball bearings on new surfaces in forwards and reverse.
This also works. Like I said earlier, you either flip the CV's or swap the whole axle from side to side.
Cheers,
Mike
#13
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I flipped them without removing the CV joints, i.e., reversing the rotation of the axles. In my mind this would seem to represent an an improvement, by having the torque pushing on the opposite side of the bearing channels. It's only been a couple days, but so far it seems as though the clunking has stopped. I will probably just replace the axles in the spring.
Roger
Roger
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thanks for all the suggestions. I flipped them without removing the CV joints, i.e., reversing the rotation of the axles. In my mind this would seem to represent an an improvement, by having the torque pushing on the opposite side of the bearing channels. It's only been a couple days, but so far it seems as though the clunking has stopped. I will probably just replace the axles in the spring.
Roger
Roger
The torque is NOT pushing on the opposite side of the bearing channels. You haven't achieved what you set out to achieve.
Cheers,
Mike
#15
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So far, so good.
Thanks.
Roger