When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Enter the new century. These cars respond very well to the 134 upgrade. I did it probably 8 years ago with a Kuehl compressor and haven't touched it since.
I'd replace the factory condenser with: https://griffiths.com/ newer style condenser if doing the 134 upgrade. Replace the dryer while you're in there. I lived in New Orleans for 4 years during college, and it's HOT!!! Drove this there without AC, but still got dates
I have several working condition factory a/c compressors $ 139.99 shipped for rennlist members 3 days delivery time
Buy one from Lart, and spend the "real" money on a new Griffiths condenser and new dryer. The difference in cooling, especially with my FMIC thickness is worth every cent. I'm still using the original compressor with a conversion kit.
An OE used compressor for under $150 with Lart's warranty can't be beat.
Buy one from Lart, and spend the "real" money on a new Griffiths condenser and new dryer. The difference in cooling, especially with my FMIC thickness is worth every cent. I'm still using the original compressor with a conversion kit.
An OE used compressor for under $150 with Lart's warranty can't be beat.
G
Still waiting to hear whether those came from R12 or R134a service (if he knows).
Any compressor can work with r12 or 134a refrigerant. They can work on cola cola for a few minutes before locking up too if you can fill the system with it. If you open up the A/c system and convert it over its wise to pull a vacuum on it for at least a half an hour at 28 in lbs/vac. That insures there is not water moisture in the system. The dryer will collect moister and loose efficacy. Also I hear the rotor style compressors take less HP to use, but that's something to look into, and you would need to buy and install hose fittings to the old lines for the new compressor (not hard). If you get a used unit check the bearing in the front. It may need to be replaced (bearings are cheap). If it's not smooth it's bad.
Yeah, it doesnt matter what refrigerant was used with the compressor and he wouldnt be able to tell you anyway.
And you definitely want to vacuum the system for at LEAST 30 minutes, if i am converting a car that lost its charge i will hold it in a vacuum over the weekend if possible, any mositure you leave in the system will lower its efficiency and can lead to other problems down the road.
Buy the compressor locally from an AC wholesaler/retailer so if any problems it can be easily exchanged. Use new green o-rings where required. Before compressor install, drain all oil out by inverting over a drip pan overnight. I would also install a new ribbed belt, Dayco or Gates, again sourced locally from Advance, Auto Zone, etc. Convert low and high side shader valves to r134a, with conversion parts again sourced locally. Also replace the dryer if not recently replaced and replace again every two times system is opened in the future. The dryers are relatively cheap. Do not turn system on! Then take it to a competent local service shop with a modern AC evac and recharge machine and ask that they vacuum for 30 min and perform leak check, which should hold a vacuum of 29 inches of mercury for at least one minute. If not, have shop identify the leak(s). If system passes leak test, The shop will then refill the system with the specified amount of 134a and the correct type and amount of oil. I always try to turn the A/C on once a week to exercise the system and generally do a full evac and recharge every two years. Good luck, Mike
YOU HIT IT DEAD ON ... SOME SHOP'S A SCARED TO TOUCH A PORSCHE
BUT THE A/C IS DIFFERENT, LOCAL SHOP CAN VACUUM THE SYSTEM AND
ADD FRION TO ANY CAR.. THANKS FOR THE WRITE UP .. I'M COOL AGAIN
08-09-2015, 06:01 PM
