How to inspect a 3.0L crank
#1
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I just bought a 3.0L crank as I am planning to piece together a hybrid build (with Sid's help) like Shawn did (thanks Shawn for leading the charge!)
I want to try and make sure the crank will work without bugging Sid for the help. What should I be looking for? I can post pics later today too... no scoring on the rod journals? Anything else that I should check for, to ensure the crank is in good shape?
Thanks!
I want to try and make sure the crank will work without bugging Sid for the help. What should I be looking for? I can post pics later today too... no scoring on the rod journals? Anything else that I should check for, to ensure the crank is in good shape?
Thanks!
#4
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I assume the main bearing remain stock -- so you can mic/polish those anyway. And look for defects on the nose and rear main that might cause oil leaks. I'd also have it magnaflux'd to check for cracks. It's cheap...
#5
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Do the crank work all at once:
-Start with Mag for cracks per Tom's suggestion
-Check main journals for size and check the thrust surfaces for wear
-Offset grind
-Straighten, clean oil passages and polish
-Start with Mag for cracks per Tom's suggestion
-Check main journals for size and check the thrust surfaces for wear
-Offset grind
-Straighten, clean oil passages and polish
#7
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Am potentially looking for 3ltr crank in very good condition if anyone has one or a lead?
Also, if one is to offset grind, is the condition of the crank much less important? What are the costs of doing this and timelines ?
Also, if one is to offset grind, is the condition of the crank much less important? What are the costs of doing this and timelines ?
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#8
Race Car
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Patrick, Shawn's guy seems to be the fastest and has done a pretty good job from what I've heard from him. Armondo is really the best, but time is really a problem.
It usually runs around 800-1000 depending on who you use and what all processes you get done.
You can use a crank with some rod journal damage as long as it hasn't been bent too much.
Are you thinking 3.3?
It usually runs around 800-1000 depending on who you use and what all processes you get done.
You can use a crank with some rod journal damage as long as it hasn't been bent too much.
Are you thinking 3.3?
#9
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I would go as far to say Armando is not even an option anymore. I accidentally over paid him $500 and the check has been in the mail for 8 months now. He will not answer the phone or return an messages. This was also the case when he had my crank for one year! The work was spectacular, but not worth the hassle.
#10
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Just looking at options but definitely on the hunt for a suitable crank. Either good condition or possibly a contender for offset.
#11
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#12
Rainman
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Just stopped in to my local machine shop to ask about offset grinding...brought a 2.5 crank that had all 4 rod bearings spun (!)
Looking at the crank I brought, he said he'd do +0.25" max = 6.35 mm = 85.25mm potential stroke.
Nitriding is standard and he always does it.
Offset grinding 0.25", polishing, nitriding and finish polishing is $750 "or less" depending on how long it takes to really do (the shop is super busy lately)...and 3-4 weeks might be needed.
No mention about straightening though.
Looking at the crank I brought, he said he'd do +0.25" max = 6.35 mm = 85.25mm potential stroke.
Nitriding is standard and he always does it.
Offset grinding 0.25", polishing, nitriding and finish polishing is $750 "or less" depending on how long it takes to really do (the shop is super busy lately)...and 3-4 weeks might be needed.
No mention about straightening though.
#13
Race Car