V2Rocket

Doug,
Head gaskets are all identical NA/Turbo/2.5S.
Widefire doesn't really do anything.

pormgb

Yep, I turboed my old N/A motor with stock internals (old head gasket). The J&S Safeguard allowed me to run 10PSI safely, I remember seeing 14PSI but that was scary.

Dougs951S

I run a KnocksenseMS unit and let megasquirt retard timing progressively if it detects knock. What fuel were you running, I'm assuming pump fuel? I'll be running E85, I detected no knock on my 8:1 951 engine at 22 psi (it died a violent death because of a failed factory rod bolt on a stock, never opened 100k+ miles engine), I would think my 9.5:1 motor should be fine on 12-14 lbs. I dont think the difference in compression will make a whole lot more power than the 951 motor if we are comparing equal boost levels, so at 14 psi I should be well within the structural integrity limits of the rods and pistons.

Paulyy

I just want to point out. With idle set up correctly. ~800-900 rpm i never had a cold start issue.
running M-tune

Raceboy

Lol even weaker engines are turbocharged every day that run higher boost and more power, 944 is nothing special. For example stock S2 pistons can withstand 670hp, just a hint

pormgb

Yes, I ran 94 octane pump gas, the car did create allot of power especially on those cool spring mornings.

FRporscheman

I say do it. I wish I did it years ago when I first took the engine out of my 951. I'm almost done rebuilding the engine... but I could have been driving the car all of this time. Even if it's only 5 psi, or NA, it's better than paying for storage.

I'm rebuilding my '87 turbo engine using a donor '85 NA block. As far as the oil filter housing, I just put the one from the '87 turbo onto the '85 block and used the '85 OPRV (3-piece). I used the factory alignment tool for these early OPRVs when tightening the housing bolts.

I am using the 951 internal parts, but I have read many threads where a complete NA short block or long block is used in a turbo application (951). Look up a thread by DanD, he made it work years ago and loved the extra pep.

Side note, 968 rods are not the same as the cast 944/S/S2. They are sintered (forged) but narrower (and lighter) than 951 forged rods.

Dougs951S

Unfortunately guys this never came to pass, I'm still open to the idea if a really cheap N/A long block presents it's self to me. Does anyone want to donate cheaply an N/A engine for the cause

V2Rocket

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/5087393120.html

V2Rocket

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/pts/5096825123.html

Dougs951S

That's a good deal but I'm in central Texas


I have a good, complete 16v head w/ cams & valve cover ready to bolt on, just could use new tensioner pads. I'm trying to not part with it so I can use it later, but I also realize it might be better to sell/trade it in the short term in order to get my 951 running again, vs making it a super long drawn out process building my dream motor. I have 16v headers w/gaskets + spare crossover easily modified to fit 16v headers + fuel rail + belt rollers too and some stroker misc engine parts suited to stroker use like a block w/matching balance shafts and girdle + two cranks + a 951 head and a set of 4mm oversize intake valves cut for stock valve keepers.

V2Rocket

what's stopping you building the stroker as-is?

if you want to do a 16v motor you may just be better off keeping the parts and finding money otherwise.

i sold a complete 16v head recently, with cams, springs, lifters, and exhaust manifolds and only got $500 for it. not even a whisper of interest over that price, on 2 forums, facebook group, and ebay.

Dougs951S

mainly, the cost of sleeving. I can get a running motor for less than it'll cost me to sleeve a block properly.

V2Rocket

you could buy my already-sleeved block that needs an overbore.


https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ved-block.html

Dougs951S

Edit: Nevermind. hmm, Spencer I'll keep that in mind. I need to weigh my options.