User 52121

Are you sure the idle is set correctly to begin with?

Really with the base, unmolested tune as downloaded from Rogue's site, the car should run just fine (unless your car as a lot of different/wacky hardware?) I'd look for problems with the car before I messed with the tune to try to band-aid some other problem.

V2Rocket

Without the logger installed, is there any way to check MAF voltage while running/driving?

Rogue_Ant

...There are plenty of 'ways' to do things, but only a few are correct.

Use the logger.

dizzyj

well, damn near everything is removed that can be. i.e. I dont have the air bypass thinggy (forgot what it was called) under the intake

Rogue_Ant

dizzyj, before adjusting any warm-up, cold-start, or other auxiliary maps, have you adjusted global fuel (with the car warmed-up and closed-loop off)?

Dave W.

Do you mean the Idle Control Valve? Or the cycling valve?

dizzyj

both

dizzyj

no, I havent messed with anything yet. Car is still on blocks. but it starts and idles, once warm, which is fine. its a race car. but would be nice while I'm tinkering in the garage not to have to manually keep the car ideling till its warm.

Rogue_Ant

Cold-start really needs the ISV (which you've removed) to keep a stable idle (when cold).

The only real option is to raise your idle-speed via the idle-screw, or hold the throttle slightly until the car warms up...

V2Rocket

noticed some more things today, about 85-90 degrees outside...
when cruising, at the lightest of throttle positions (just cracked to keep the car at 75-80 on flat ground) the AFR currently is in the 11s, a hair more and it goes towards 12, a hair more and into 13, and only when getting to what i'd call 1/8 throttle does it get to the 14 afr range, and this is enough throttle to either maintain speed but waste gas or accelerate a little bit on flat/slight downhill ground.

also, when flooring it in 4th or 5th gear on the highway from say 2000rpm on, the afr goes to high/mid 13s from 2000-2800, hits 13 about 3000 and into the 12s (12.5-12.9) above 3000...target WOT AFR is 12.8 across the board regardless of rpm. it holds that until high 5000s where it pulls back into the low 13s...

so at very low airflow it seems to be giving too much fuel but at WOT it is inconsistent at the pinging RPM ranges. so i guess i need to try messing with the compensation table at the low end for cruising and maybe the WOT table in the ping-ranges...?

Rogue_Ant

No - not yet.

The first thing to do, is to adjust the MAF compensation table until the reported AFRs line up well with the target AFR.

Once that is done, then you can adjust the target AFRs to your liking, and the system should automatically hit them (without needing to re-adjust the MAF comp table).

V2Rocket

positive/negative numbers input to MAF compensation table eqals +/- percentage fuel adjustment based on airflow/voltage?

Rogue_Ant

Yes.

User 52121

Yeah that explains it - I didn't know the ISV was missing.

I guess you could hack something by putting a valve or something on the port at the intake that you can crack open while the car is cold to help it idle? Sorta like an old school manual choke?

V2Rocket

ive seen on racers they use an early 944 heater control valve (cable operated) as a choke...


Will try some adjustments and report back