Individual Ignition Coils
#1
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From: Louisville
Individual Ignition Coils
I am putting a stand alone ecu (Haltech Elite) in and will be utilizing individual coils for each of the spark plugs. It's a 2v 2.5 but later will be moving to a 4v 3.3l engine so would like to put something on that will be moveable to the next head/engine combination. What I don't understand is do you need a separate ignitor to go with the coil packs or are they internal to the individual coil? I don't need a coil on plug, a coil near plug will work just fine and might be the best option when moving from a 2v head to a 4v head. It is for a racing application and not street. Haltech sells an ignitor but if the ignitor is internal to the individual coil I could save a little bit by going with a combined ignitor coil.
What's out there that would fit this setup?
Thanks in advance, Keith
What's out there that would fit this setup?
Thanks in advance, Keith
#3
On my 3 liter 8v engine I used Bosch P-35 coils with built-in ignitors with my Link G4. I used Toyota Tundra COPs with built in ignitors on my twin-plugged 3.3l short stroke 911 motors with a MoTeC M600. Both have worked well for me. I couldn't see the point in coils and separate ignitors. Don't know if the length of the Tundra COPs would work with the 16v head.
#5
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What about LS2 car coils, what is the opinion on those?
LS2 truck coils with heatsinks are self discharging on dwell set over 5ms if I remember correctly, so IMO these are a big NO-NO.
Do LS2 car coils do this too?
I have 4 LS2 coils for my engine and don't know wether I should use them or buy IGN-1A or any other coil set that rather than protecting itself, protects my engine..
LS2 truck coils with heatsinks are self discharging on dwell set over 5ms if I remember correctly, so IMO these are a big NO-NO.
Do LS2 car coils do this too?
I have 4 LS2 coils for my engine and don't know wether I should use them or buy IGN-1A or any other coil set that rather than protecting itself, protects my engine..
#7
I have never used any coil that needs dwell setting of over 5ms. VEMS has boost scaling for setting dwell time so I just usually go for the lowest setting that runs engine without misfire (crankshaft acceleration for each cylinder can be seen on individual power gauge, misfire and even light knock is instantly visible and it is logged also) and then adjust multiplier so that on light load/cruise it is less than that of needed boost (about 1/3 less usually).
Some Bosch wasted spark coils need 4ms, never needed to use more.
Here you can see log graph and explanation how easy it is to diagnose:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...tion-with-VEMS
Some Bosch wasted spark coils need 4ms, never needed to use more.
Here you can see log graph and explanation how easy it is to diagnose:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...tion-with-VEMS
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#8
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Thanks, I got ls2 coils with my haltech ps1000 setup and i noticed they have very bad reputation on the web, but everybody is talking about truck ls2 coils with heatsinks.
My coils are car coils without heatsink and I wonder if they have the same flaw.
http://efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7894
My coils are car coils without heatsink and I wonder if they have the same flaw.
http://efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7894
#9
It is clear that these coils are not designed to work at 5+ms of dwell. I did not see a single post about trying to find out what dwell the "problematic" LS2 coils have when ran on the original ECU in its original application.
Why would they even want to run such high dwell if the coil clearly likes less charge time? I would unrestand that if they have issues with spark being blowed out and they need to experiment, but no such thing also. Running more than necessary dwell just wears coils more and produces more heat. You will not get more power just by running more dwell if lower dwell does not cause misfire. And it is easy to detect with right tools.
*EFI101 forum member from 2006.
Why would they even want to run such high dwell if the coil clearly likes less charge time? I would unrestand that if they have issues with spark being blowed out and they need to experiment, but no such thing also. Running more than necessary dwell just wears coils more and produces more heat. You will not get more power just by running more dwell if lower dwell does not cause misfire. And it is easy to detect with right tools.
*EFI101 forum member from 2006.
#10
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The D585 coil's issue isn't with dwell time, per se. The issue is current.
I went over this coil here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...l#post10237916
But since very few ECUs can measure current in real-time, we use dwell time as the main tuning parameter.
Regardless, I would never run an autofiring coil - many better options out there (ones that will do a proper current-limiting-hold).
I went over this coil here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...l#post10237916
But since very few ECUs can measure current in real-time, we use dwell time as the main tuning parameter.
Regardless, I would never run an autofiring coil - many better options out there (ones that will do a proper current-limiting-hold).
#12
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The D585 coil's issue isn't with dwell time, per se. The issue is current.
I went over this coil here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...l#post10237916
But since very few ECUs can measure current in real-time, we use dwell time as the main tuning parameter.
Regardless, I would never run an autofiring coil - many better options out there (ones that will do a proper current-limiting-hold).
I went over this coil here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...l#post10237916
But since very few ECUs can measure current in real-time, we use dwell time as the main tuning parameter.
Regardless, I would never run an autofiring coil - many better options out there (ones that will do a proper current-limiting-hold).
So LS2 coils all feature this current protection that is a risk or this is D585 problem only?
I think I have C1512 coils and am not sure if I want to use these if they have built in risk of killing the engine.
#13
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I believe the C1512 coils are also known as "D514a".
These coils do a proper current-hold. That is to say, they do not auto-fire.
I have the IGN1A coil around here somewhere... I'll see if I can find it and get some time to bench test it.
These coils do a proper current-hold. That is to say, they do not auto-fire.
I have the IGN1A coil around here somewhere... I'll see if I can find it and get some time to bench test it.
#14
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Found the answer to my own question.
Looks like C1512 are the good ones and don't self discharge.
http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.p...=2423&start=30
Looks like C1512 are the good ones and don't self discharge.
http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.p...=2423&start=30
The Coils to get are:
C1512
D514A
OEM part 12573190
These are all part numbers for the same denso coil. Lots of testing has been done on all the variants and this one does not false fire (effectively uncontrolled added advance) at higher dwell levels like the others. There are plenty of documented engine losses due to this artificial advance (sometimes upto 20 degrees)
They retail at $280 for 8 so you will have 4 or 2 left over either way. We have made over 1000rwhp with them and they are ultra reliable.
We just finished a GTR with nistune and had no issues at around 500rwkw with these coils and modified nistune dwell settings.
C1512
D514A
OEM part 12573190
These are all part numbers for the same denso coil. Lots of testing has been done on all the variants and this one does not false fire (effectively uncontrolled added advance) at higher dwell levels like the others. There are plenty of documented engine losses due to this artificial advance (sometimes upto 20 degrees)
They retail at $280 for 8 so you will have 4 or 2 left over either way. We have made over 1000rwhp with them and they are ultra reliable.
We just finished a GTR with nistune and had no issues at around 500rwkw with these coils and modified nistune dwell settings.
#15
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Looking forward to IGN1A results, those look like a real performance coils.