Will I have to align-hone if using raceware main bearing studs?
01-27-2015, 03:43 PM
#16
If a stud is not torqued to a value which will exceed the yield strength of the material, then the only variable in determining the difference in elongation is the modulus, which for any conventional (i.e. any steel) material is going to be basically the same. This assumes you have kept the same stud diameter, pitch, and tension (torque) values.
So unless the tension in the stud produces stresses in excess of yield, there will be no difference in the resulting lengths of two steel studs of identical geometry, torqued to the same value.
It would be easy enough to compare the torque procedures and thread/stud geometry between stock and Raceware offerings to calculate ballpark tension values...
So unless the tension in the stud produces stresses in excess of yield, there will be no difference in the resulting lengths of two steel studs of identical geometry, torqued to the same value.
It would be easy enough to compare the torque procedures and thread/stud geometry between stock and Raceware offerings to calculate ballpark tension values...
01-27-2015, 10:06 PM
#17
Ultimate tensile strength and elastic modulus are two separate things. Steels and low alloy materials generally used in bolting applications will have a modulus of 29,000 to 30,000 ksi at ambient temperature. Aluminum is about a third of that.
Certainly their hardware could have a 20-30% higher tensile strength than the stock stuff. For comparison:
8.8 - 120 ksi UTS (~Grade 5)
10.9 - 151 ksi UTS (~Grade 8)
12.9 - 177 ksi UTS
Certainly their hardware could have a 20-30% higher tensile strength than the stock stuff. For comparison:
8.8 - 120 ksi UTS (~Grade 5)
10.9 - 151 ksi UTS (~Grade 8)
12.9 - 177 ksi UTS
01-30-2015, 03:13 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
An align bore is a great addition to any engine rebuild. Dont skimp, it makes a difference.
Raceware studs have a higher resistance to stetching, I dont see why the crank girdle would distort if it was torqued to stock specs.
If you are using more torque, then I would understand.
Raceware studs have a higher resistance to stetching, I dont see why the crank girdle would distort if it was torqued to stock specs.
If you are using more torque, then I would understand.
01-30-2015, 06:04 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Agreed. This was a brand new block from Porsche, and still it had to be align-honed. It was actually quite bad. The reason I have to change the bolts is because the steam clean after the align-hone left them corroded.
01-30-2015, 08:40 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
How badly corroded? It's common for steel and cast iron to almost instantly rust as soon you clean them with aggressive degreasers and then leave them exposed to the open air... Can't you just scrub them down a bit? I mean, they'll be impregnated with oil as soon as you have the engine in use... Do you have any pics?
01-31-2015, 03:30 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I could probably get away with it but light sanding did leave them slightly pitted and since they have been torqued a few times I prefer changing them. I ordered a set of OEM bolts to replace them with. Hopefully I can get away with not having to hone the bore once more.
The challenge now is to remove the stubborn things.
The challenge now is to remove the stubborn things.