Will I have to align-hone if using raceware main bearing studs?
#1
Will I have to align-hone if using raceware main bearing studs?
Those of you who have used these. Did they affect the main bore at all?
Sorry for repeating myself. I figure this question merited a separate thread from my original post.
Sorry for repeating myself. I figure this question merited a separate thread from my original post.
#4
It's not the studs. It's the clamping force.
If your clamping force is different with the Raceware studs, then yes... you will have to check it and possibly correct for distortion.
TonyG
If your clamping force is different with the Raceware studs, then yes... you will have to check it and possibly correct for distortion.
TonyG
#5
The whole point of the Raceware products are to get the correct clamping force without creating distortions.
Check out this link: http://raceware-fasteners.com/german...er-not-better/
Check out this link: http://raceware-fasteners.com/german...er-not-better/
#6
The whole point of the Raceware products are to get the correct clamping force without creating distortions.
Check out this link: http://raceware-fasteners.com/german...er-not-better/
Check out this link: http://raceware-fasteners.com/german...er-not-better/
The bottom line is that you should have the block checked no matter. It's cheap to check it and correct it if necessary.
TonyG
#7
First of all it is not cheap to send the engine block of to a machine shop where he lives, it is very expensive, it would probably run close to 400usd or even more. The better safe than sorry approach doesn't answer his questions. He is probably better of asking Raceware than on this forum.
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#8
First of all it is not cheap to send the engine block of to a machine shop where he lives, it is very expensive, it would probably run close to 400usd or even more. The better safe than sorry approach doesn't answer his questions. He is probably better of asking Raceware than on this forum.
If you change how **** is torqued, which includes changing the type of fasteners, you need to check it to verify the distortion under load.
If it's too much much of a hassle or expense to check the crank mains for straightness.... then you have no business ****ing with the fasteners. Put the stock parts back in and follow the directions and be done with it.
TonyG
#9
There's no first of all...
If you change how **** is torqued, which includes changing the type of fasteners, you need to check it to verify the distortion under load.
If it's too much much of a hassle or expense to check the crank mains for straightness.... then you have no business ****ing with the fasteners. Put the stock parts back in and follow the directions and be done with it.
TonyG
If you change how **** is torqued, which includes changing the type of fasteners, you need to check it to verify the distortion under load.
If it's too much much of a hassle or expense to check the crank mains for straightness.... then you have no business ****ing with the fasteners. Put the stock parts back in and follow the directions and be done with it.
TonyG
Last edited by KSira; 01-27-2015 at 04:44 AM.
#10
Change the fasteners, and you need to put a load on it and remeasure.
And yes... I have used a lot of aftermarket fasteners... including Raceware.
TonyG
#12
This is the basic formula for axial load. As you can see from this formula with bolt diameter and torque being the same the only variable is the c, which may vary slightly. Still the clamping force won't change much.
Equation T = c D F
T = Torque required (inch pounds)
F = Bolt tension desired (Axial Load) (pounds).
D = Nominal bolt diameter. (major dia.)
c = Coefficient of friction constant
Steel and/or zinc plated threads = .2
Cadmium threads = .16
Lubricated threads = .16 to .17
Equation T = c D F
T = Torque required (inch pounds)
F = Bolt tension desired (Axial Load) (pounds).
D = Nominal bolt diameter. (major dia.)
c = Coefficient of friction constant
Steel and/or zinc plated threads = .2
Cadmium threads = .16
Lubricated threads = .16 to .17
#13
Thanks mate.
Can anyone confirm the torqueing procedure for the RaceWare studs?
By the way, isn't part of the point of high spec fasteners the ability to use higher, thus more secure, clamping forces and still be safely below the yield point?
Can anyone confirm the torqueing procedure for the RaceWare studs?
By the way, isn't part of the point of high spec fasteners the ability to use higher, thus more secure, clamping forces and still be safely below the yield point?
#14
EDIT: Tensile stress area is affected by number of threads pr/inch, and can also be changed do decrease change in bolt length
dl = F L / E A
where
dl = change in length of bolt (inches, mm)
F = applied tensile load (lb, kN)
L = effective length of bolt where tensile strength is applied (inches, mm)
E = Young's Modulus of Elasticity (psi, N/mm2)
A = tensile stress area of bolt (square inches, mm2)
#15
So unless the tension in the stud produces stresses in excess of yield, there will be no difference in the resulting lengths of two steel studs of identical geometry, torqued to the same value.
It would be easy enough to compare the torque procedures and thread/stud geometry between stock and Raceware offerings to calculate ballpark tension values...