Wheel stud removal
#1
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Racer
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From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada, eh
Wheel stud removal
I want to try more spacers on the front wheels, and I find that while the rear studs are plenty long, the fronts, not so much. The stockers were all swapped out in 1991, and a few recently got reused on the winter car (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...hmentid=445291).
The question is, is there a simple way to pull and reinsert the wheel studs wile the hubs are still on the car? I'm think lug nuts and pullers (I have a few).
I've had the suspension pulled to bits so many times, I'd rather not do it again so soon...
Regards,
doug
86 951 (http://pcaucr.org/media/image-galler...ll&gallery=224)
01 E320 (W210) 4matic Wagon (http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...body-do-2.html)
00 540i-6 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...hp?albumid=976)
94 855 turbo Wagon (sold in 09)
85 535i-5 (sold in 07)
76 300D (sold in 92)
83 944 (sold in 86)
I apparently only buy cars designated by numbers
The question is, is there a simple way to pull and reinsert the wheel studs wile the hubs are still on the car? I'm think lug nuts and pullers (I have a few).
I've had the suspension pulled to bits so many times, I'd rather not do it again so soon...
Regards,
doug
86 951 (http://pcaucr.org/media/image-galler...ll&gallery=224)
01 E320 (W210) 4matic Wagon (http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...body-do-2.html)
00 540i-6 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...hp?albumid=976)
94 855 turbo Wagon (sold in 09)
85 535i-5 (sold in 07)
76 300D (sold in 92)
83 944 (sold in 86)
I apparently only buy cars designated by numbers
#2
It depends how long are the studs.
I just installed 100mm studs on the front and I had to remove the hubs to install them. It takes few seconds to remove the hub btw. It is also an opportunity to repack the bearings with grease and adjust them properly when you re-install the hubs.
Actually, if you do not have the proper tool (stud remover), it is a lot easier to remove the studs on a bench. Just put the hub vertically, the right socket size under the stud head and push the stud with a hammer.
Do not try that with the hub on the car, you will break the bearings...
I just installed 100mm studs on the front and I had to remove the hubs to install them. It takes few seconds to remove the hub btw. It is also an opportunity to repack the bearings with grease and adjust them properly when you re-install the hubs.
Actually, if you do not have the proper tool (stud remover), it is a lot easier to remove the studs on a bench. Just put the hub vertically, the right socket size under the stud head and push the stud with a hammer.
Do not try that with the hub on the car, you will break the bearings...
#3
Just a detail...
When you re-install the studs, do it with the hub on a bench vise or if the hub is still on the car, use a ball joint puller like this. You can also use a spacer and a bolt.
You can still pull the studs with the wheel but I am not sure that aluminium wheels will like it. I do not recommend it anyway.
It is just my opinion and I am sure you will find different opinions on this subject! ;-)
When you re-install the studs, do it with the hub on a bench vise or if the hub is still on the car, use a ball joint puller like this. You can also use a spacer and a bolt.
You can still pull the studs with the wheel but I am not sure that aluminium wheels will like it. I do not recommend it anyway.
It is just my opinion and I am sure you will find different opinions on this subject! ;-)
#4
You can bang them out while they are on the car as long as you no longer have the dust covers. when you put them back on just use a impact with a spacer and a lug. Make sure you get all the way down... You want the back of the stud snug against the back of the hub.
#6
Rennlist Member
Hitting your suspension with a sledge hammer is just a bad idea, period. Take the hubs off, press the studs out with a hydraulic press, easy enough. Heat helps especially when installing the studs.
As Cyril suggests, in addition to repacking the bearings, have the hubs checked for cracks by a shop that specializes in this kind of work, eg, Zyglo process. Especially important if you are stressing the part with big, sticky tires, spacers, use at the track, etc. These cars are old, life-timing parts is part of what we all need to be doing to stay safe.
Kevin
Catellus Engineering
As Cyril suggests, in addition to repacking the bearings, have the hubs checked for cracks by a shop that specializes in this kind of work, eg, Zyglo process. Especially important if you are stressing the part with big, sticky tires, spacers, use at the track, etc. These cars are old, life-timing parts is part of what we all need to be doing to stay safe.
Kevin
Catellus Engineering