Opinions/options on Wastegates upgrades
06-08-2014, 02:57 AM
#32
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I'm rebuilding the stock turbo because (1) I have a spare core to send in (2) the one in the car needs to be rebuilt/replaced and (3) I'm not ready to upgrade to anything more than stock. G Pop Shop is doing the rebuild. They were the least expensive and closest rebuilder (for shipping time) I could find.
06-08-2014, 09:04 AM
#33
Boost - not ready to upgrade? Does not compute....
And what does the build involve - just seals, or does your core have shaft play? How is that play fixed? I am in the same boat - I have an extra k26/6 with obvious shaft play lying around and am trying to decide what to do with it.
So far, it has been an educational tool. I read posts, the pick it up and pretend I'm the exhaust manifold, or the intercooler pipe, etc. Be the turbo, be the turbo...
And what does the build involve - just seals, or does your core have shaft play? How is that play fixed? I am in the same boat - I have an extra k26/6 with obvious shaft play lying around and am trying to decide what to do with it.
So far, it has been an educational tool. I read posts, the pick it up and pretend I'm the exhaust manifold, or the intercooler pipe, etc. Be the turbo, be the turbo...
06-08-2014, 06:31 PM
#34
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There is significant shaft play. I'd love to build the engine but current budget doesn't allow for that. As the WG is also in need of replacement, I'll do both new WG and rebuilt turbo at the same time. Then I'll have another K26/6 core to do with what I want (later).
The rebuild, as I understand it, is a full replacement or all seals, washers, etc, cleaning up of the housing and rebalancing/checking the impeller and turbo. this is not a replacement of the impeller or turbo wheels. (that would be addition $$)
FWIW G Pop Shop has said they can modify the K26/6 to be just about anything you want it to be. lightweight billet internals, machine out either side to a 27/8 for example (but still maintaining the factory bolt-on compatibility. That said I can't personally speak to any of this as it's my first time using this vendor. Another vendor is Evergreen Turbo in FL. Charlie has many fans here on RL but he was going to be more $$ and the shipping time would increase a bit for me.
Or just continue being the turbo, being the turbo... ;-)
The rebuild, as I understand it, is a full replacement or all seals, washers, etc, cleaning up of the housing and rebalancing/checking the impeller and turbo. this is not a replacement of the impeller or turbo wheels. (that would be addition $$)
FWIW G Pop Shop has said they can modify the K26/6 to be just about anything you want it to be. lightweight billet internals, machine out either side to a 27/8 for example (but still maintaining the factory bolt-on compatibility. That said I can't personally speak to any of this as it's my first time using this vendor. Another vendor is Evergreen Turbo in FL. Charlie has many fans here on RL but he was going to be more $$ and the shipping time would increase a bit for me.
Or just continue being the turbo, being the turbo... ;-)
10-14-2014, 05:55 PM
#35
Boost, you ever get around to completing this install?
I've got a rebuilt turbo and a tial w/ fejj adapters on the shelf ready to go in. Was searching for threads on the install effort and came across this.
Any wisdom to share?
I've got a rebuilt turbo and a tial w/ fejj adapters on the shelf ready to go in. Was searching for threads on the install effort and came across this.
Any wisdom to share?
10-15-2014, 08:32 PM
#37
Kem,
I am no expert, but I will walk you through my decision process.
Stock unit on my car appears to be original and is therefore 28 years old. Based on the pinching the vacuum line method, I have determined that it is opening early and bleeding boost. Options were as follows:
1) new/rebuilt stock unit,
2) a new/rebuilt unit converted to dual port
3) Tial
4) other aftermarket wastegate
Based on price, the Tial plus adapter plates is about the same cost as the LR dual port. The adapter plates should make installation just as easy as the LR - but I have not done either install and have no experience with this.
What made the difference for me was the way the Tial valve opens - it opens against the exhaust flow, where the stock unit opens with flow. That's why when the stock spring gets weak, it can start to leak boost early. I believe that converting to dual port reduces the negatives associated with the potential weak spring, but I will others with more knowledge speak to that.
I have also heard good things about the reliability of the Tial, and it's ability to hold high boost levels. Plus, I got a deal on a used Tial from a fellow 'lister.
If ease of install is your main concern, I don't see how you can go wrong with LR dual port conversion.
I am no expert, but I will walk you through my decision process.
Stock unit on my car appears to be original and is therefore 28 years old. Based on the pinching the vacuum line method, I have determined that it is opening early and bleeding boost. Options were as follows:
1) new/rebuilt stock unit,
2) a new/rebuilt unit converted to dual port
3) Tial
4) other aftermarket wastegate
Based on price, the Tial plus adapter plates is about the same cost as the LR dual port. The adapter plates should make installation just as easy as the LR - but I have not done either install and have no experience with this.
What made the difference for me was the way the Tial valve opens - it opens against the exhaust flow, where the stock unit opens with flow. That's why when the stock spring gets weak, it can start to leak boost early. I believe that converting to dual port reduces the negatives associated with the potential weak spring, but I will others with more knowledge speak to that.
I have also heard good things about the reliability of the Tial, and it's ability to hold high boost levels. Plus, I got a deal on a used Tial from a fellow 'lister.
If ease of install is your main concern, I don't see how you can go wrong with LR dual port conversion.
10-16-2014, 08:57 AM
#38
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Looks like this just sold me on 38mm with the adaptor plates.. my Lindsey took a crap just over boost and can't regulate it even with my ebc . I also tie the two vacume lines from the wg together so I would get spring pressure and it still skyrockets lol .. tial it is
10-16-2014, 04:29 PM
#39
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@bumflick I did rebuild the K26/6 and I had purchased the Tial 38 with plates from someone here. However I could never get the car to pass CA emissions and finally gave up. I am parting the car and both the K26/6 and the Tial have already been sold. Sorry I couldn't help with your questions more...
BTW the turbo was rebuilt by G Pop Shop in Arkansas. They did a full rebuild and balance with quicker turn around and for less $$ than Charlie @ Evergreen. I have never used Evergreen and this should not be taken as me "dissing" Evergreen in any way. I understand Charlie does a fine job of rebuilding these turbo. That said and while I did a stock rebuild, the guys at G Pop offered MANY more options for rebuilding, such as machining out the /6 hot side to that of an /8 (which would make the ultimate "cheater" 951 for club racing!) and/or using billet inserts to reduce weight/decrease spoolup time. There was a LOT they could do and maintain the stock bolt-in. I was rather impressed by these guys.
BTW the turbo was rebuilt by G Pop Shop in Arkansas. They did a full rebuild and balance with quicker turn around and for less $$ than Charlie @ Evergreen. I have never used Evergreen and this should not be taken as me "dissing" Evergreen in any way. I understand Charlie does a fine job of rebuilding these turbo. That said and while I did a stock rebuild, the guys at G Pop offered MANY more options for rebuilding, such as machining out the /6 hot side to that of an /8 (which would make the ultimate "cheater" 951 for club racing!) and/or using billet inserts to reduce weight/decrease spoolup time. There was a LOT they could do and maintain the stock bolt-in. I was rather impressed by these guys.
10-17-2014, 10:09 AM
#41
Correct. If you hook up the line to both ports with no MBC, then you will send the same pressure to both sides of the diaphragm which negates each other making the spring have no force against it to open, this means the wastegate stays shut and allows as much boost as you car will make, aka a overboost situation.
Last edited by mahoney944; 10-17-2014 at 12:09 PM.
10-17-2014, 03:37 PM
#42
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I contacted Lindsey they said have the top line directly to the charge pipe, lower line disconnected and I should get 9psi... The boost goes over 18psi lol
10-17-2014, 04:18 PM
#43
Should be a solid line from charge pipe to top of wastegate, just disconnection the side port is not enough because you then making a huge leak from the disconnected hose which will cause high boost. If it still overboosts after confirming above then your diaphram broke. If your using the lr dual port ask Lindsey if they will sell you a new diaphram seal, they are super easy to swap out, 10 minute job tops. Probably save you on money too.