ibkevin

Damn that sucks..

Tom M'Guinn

Uh, sorry about that.

odurandina

sorry to hear.

Black51

Man, it's been a rough week for you Paulyy! Hopefully it will be even better than before when you get it all fixed.

Crazy Eddie

Hey Paulyy
That really sucks
Very sorry bud .... I hope it all works out, and there is not too much damage
Regards
Ed

Paulyy

Alek: The result of the tensioner not being tight after starting the car after tightening the crank bolt

Eric: yep CEP Head. dave's looking at some valves for me.

Lart: Yep i do all my work. I didn't do the head though. CEP. still young, still learning.

Sid: haha! I'm not game enough to start porting the head. it's been ported by dave @ CEP. the head and cam have been matched to eachother.

Cheers guys for the love. I'll probably take my time with this one. just because of work. car is rarely driven these days. just weekend. average 200miles a week if i'm lucky.

I'll keep this thread updated.

ATM i'll probably need a gasket kit. valves and guides.

Tsmith84

So the crank bolt was in fact loose?

refresh951

What a bummer Paul

Was indeed the crank bolt loose? Why did you have to loosen the tensioner to tighten the crank bolt?

When ever I do something on my car I have this procedure before I start it where I stand in front of the car and look at everything I have done thinking of any potential things left undone. I am amazed how many times this has saved me from disaster. Hope you get it fixed soon mate.

Paulyy

Correct. that was the start of the issue.

I had to loosen all the belts to get the crank shaft pulley on properly or would just not sit 100% flat.
I'll have to take note of your procedure. I do the same though. But sometimes you miss something.

I'll be giving this a few months and take my sweet time with this. it's winter and i've got work, so it'll be an after work thing.

Because the car is in my garage and not at my shop, it makes things a little harder.

During the week i'll get the head off. tomorrow i'll get the cam tower off.

Do you believe i can remove the head with out unbolting the exhaust manifold from the head, just the crossover? or is it possible to recuse gaskets?

I'll keep this as my primary thread. if i do updates on my car, it'll go to the build thread.

Paulyy

This gives me a chance to clean things up again. I've had coolant leaking from the rubber hose that connects to the top of the head and coolant has collected between the head and block. I've had some coolant leak under pressure from another hose that i can now clean up.

t3rra

Sorry to hear this. but sounds like u got it under control. At what point is an upgraded head needed? Who's the best for this lr have some flow numbers on there's can't find much less. What's the deal with use n/a head or valves? Under stand there larger but you lose the ceramic exhaust ports

pole position

Take the head off with the manifold attached, just unbolt at the merge collector, need new gaskets/ seal rings

pole position

The power in a Otto cycle engine is made in the head.

Larger valves will move the curve to the left aka loss of tq . The ceramic coating will keep heat / velocity = less lag.

Pro head porting is a art plus you need a upgraded valve train / cam to take advantage of it. Done right = expensive

reno808

gotta triple check when it comes to stuff like that.
Why was your crank pulley loose in the 1st place?
I would toss that auto tensioner and convert to manual. That is what i did.

Paulyy

We just don't know why it was loose. When it was put together, it was torqued to spec.

with the auto tensioner, I'll just put pressure on it before tensioning it next time. I really don't want to be fiddling around with that.