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The engine harness is rebuilt. I incorporated the m tune into the harness. I wanted a cleaner look. The m tune comes with a single red wire sticking out to plug into the old cycling valve connector which I thought would look slightly tacky. So I figured since I had the harness exposed I would run that wire through to the maf connector and put a spare pin in it.
The main reason I rebuilt it was to deal with a random no start, which after jiggling the speed and ref sensor harness a little would result in the car starting. I bought some oil/heat resistant shielded wire (the two white ones) and soldered them into the harness as close to the DME connector as possible.
I don't know how I missed this, but i think the new turbo I got doesn't have a water cooling jacket. Is this a cause for concern? What things will change? Not connecting a sensor to the turbo (is it a temp sensor?) Remove the turbo water pump and get the n/a block off plate at the water pump? Is the stock oiling system sufficient for cooling it? It is a turbonetics turbine housing
I don't know how I missed this, but i think the new turbo I got doesn't have a water cooling jacket. Is this a cause for concern? What things will change? Not connecting a sensor to the turbo (is it a temp sensor?) Remove the turbo water pump and get the n/a block off plate at the water pump? Is the stock oiling system sufficient for cooling it? It is a turbonetics turbine housing
You'll need to get a block off Plate at the water pump and cap off the port at the expansion tank. Less plumbing for a cleaner look in my opinion. Alot will say durability will be a factor but if you properly cool down before shutting off the car then I don't see an issue. Next time I send a turbo for rebuild I'll convert to oil only. Great build btw, if you ever think of making another harness, I'll be interested in buying one.
very close to finishing! Has anybody put an oil scavenge pump to cool the turbo or do most just use turbo timers? It would be neat to have a dedicated pump plumbed in and wired to the coolant pump harness to pump oil through the turbo for a min after shutdown.
Today came the task of cleaning the oil-covered bottom of my car, cross member and control arms. Removing all of this made me realize that I still have some work to do down there. Namely, bushings and ball joint (boot is ripped) need to be replaced. I bought a used steering rack locally with low miles on it and replaced the tie rod ends on my tie rods. Believe it or not, the cross member and control arms used to be completely black. It's amazing what 2800psi of water can do. I also flushed out my radiator to rid it of the milkshake that has been sitting in it for 2 years. Then I gave it a power wash.
I'd swear looking out your shop from the painted floor to the cracked up concrete with greenery in the cracks that I was looking out from my own home shop...
There was a bit of a learning curve with all the greenery growing in the cracks. It took me a couple cleaning cycles to learn that the pressure washer was slinging up mud onto my parts.
Is there any specific orientation of the pressure plate? It has been a couple of years, but i cannot see any alignment marks or anything on it. I just assumed that it is balanced itself and has no specific alignment.
Also, for anybody looking for alignment of the crankshaft at TDC here are pics of it. You can note the alignment of the dowel pin. I somehow installed the belts with the camshaft 180deg out of time. Embarrassing.
Here is the progress. Trying to figure out how to plumb the vacuum lines and fit the coolant hoses to make the dry turbo work. It's nice to have a new reservoir without having to pay for the turbo one.
The round connector in the top pic is the diagnostic port. It goes in a little bracket in the top right of the engine bay (when viewing from in front of car).
05-01-2016, 08:34 PM
