Lindsey vacuum hose kit?
03-20-2004, 11:50 AM
#33
Rennlist Member
Hmmm... not to belabor this, but what steps in the fuel rail removal process on Clark's Garage can be skipped? Do you really not have to remove the rail? Has anyone who's done this using the 10 minute approach written up an article / post?
03-20-2004, 04:27 PM
#34
Instructor
Well I don't know about an article, but I'll try to describe my "10 minute" approach - I'd say more like 15 minutes - from memory:
- Disconnect the fuel lines from the regulator and dampner. Have something to catch the few oz. of fuel that will spill out.
- Remove the small vacuum hoses from the regulator and dampner. There's also a hose that runs to the blow-off valve and one that runs to a small nipple under the throttle body.
- Loosen the hose clamps on both ends of the intercooler pipes and remove the pipes. You can leave the hose attached to the banjo bolt. On the intake side, there's a couple of other hose clamps you'll need to loosen. They'll be obvious.
- Remove the throttle cable from the pulley.
- Remove the 2 10mm hex head bolts holding the fuel rail supports to the cam cover. (Leave the 2 on the intake manifold side in place).
- Loosen the bolt on the electrical connector bracket at the back of the intake manifold. Don't remove it, just loosen enough to slip the brack off with connectors intact.
- Remove the 2 Allen head screws towards the back of the i.m. near the oil filler cap.
- Look under the i.m. a few inches to the left of the throttle body and you'll see a 13mm hex head nut. (My car doesn't have the stock air box so its easy to see - not sure when the box is in place). Loosen this bolt, but don't remove it. A 1/4" drive socket on a wobble extension works great.
- Remove the plug wires from between the runners and fuel rail supports.
- Disconnect the vacuum lines connected to the i.m. between the runners. Two are hose clamped, one is a banjo bolt (don't loose the washers).
- Remove the 8 allen head bolts holding runners to the cylinder head. The rear-most one also holds down a cable clamp - leave the bolt in the clamp.
Unless I missed something, manifold should now lift up. Dipstick tube will come up with it. Remove the bolt holding the dipstick tube. You should now be able to flip the whole manifold/fuel rail over and towards the windshield out of the way.
Assembly is the reverse - just make sure you get all the hoses back in the right places. You'll need to replace the 4 individual intake manifold gaskets. Torque the allen bolts to 15 ft-lb.
Helpful hint- the dipstick mounting bolt is a PITA to get in once the manifold is in place. I slotted the bottom of its mounting bracket so it can slip over the bolt. Next time you won't have to remove the bolt to get the tube off, just loosen it.
Pay attention as you disassemble, take notes or pictures, and you should have no problem getting it back together properly.
Good luck,
Jon.
- Disconnect the fuel lines from the regulator and dampner. Have something to catch the few oz. of fuel that will spill out.
- Remove the small vacuum hoses from the regulator and dampner. There's also a hose that runs to the blow-off valve and one that runs to a small nipple under the throttle body.
- Loosen the hose clamps on both ends of the intercooler pipes and remove the pipes. You can leave the hose attached to the banjo bolt. On the intake side, there's a couple of other hose clamps you'll need to loosen. They'll be obvious.
- Remove the throttle cable from the pulley.
- Remove the 2 10mm hex head bolts holding the fuel rail supports to the cam cover. (Leave the 2 on the intake manifold side in place).
- Loosen the bolt on the electrical connector bracket at the back of the intake manifold. Don't remove it, just loosen enough to slip the brack off with connectors intact.
- Remove the 2 Allen head screws towards the back of the i.m. near the oil filler cap.
- Look under the i.m. a few inches to the left of the throttle body and you'll see a 13mm hex head nut. (My car doesn't have the stock air box so its easy to see - not sure when the box is in place). Loosen this bolt, but don't remove it. A 1/4" drive socket on a wobble extension works great.
- Remove the plug wires from between the runners and fuel rail supports.
- Disconnect the vacuum lines connected to the i.m. between the runners. Two are hose clamped, one is a banjo bolt (don't loose the washers).
- Remove the 8 allen head bolts holding runners to the cylinder head. The rear-most one also holds down a cable clamp - leave the bolt in the clamp.
Unless I missed something, manifold should now lift up. Dipstick tube will come up with it. Remove the bolt holding the dipstick tube. You should now be able to flip the whole manifold/fuel rail over and towards the windshield out of the way.
Assembly is the reverse - just make sure you get all the hoses back in the right places. You'll need to replace the 4 individual intake manifold gaskets. Torque the allen bolts to 15 ft-lb.
Helpful hint- the dipstick mounting bolt is a PITA to get in once the manifold is in place. I slotted the bottom of its mounting bracket so it can slip over the bolt. Next time you won't have to remove the bolt to get the tube off, just loosen it.
Pay attention as you disassemble, take notes or pictures, and you should have no problem getting it back together properly.
Good luck,
Jon.
03-20-2004, 05:11 PM
#35
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
That nicely covers it, I actually wouldn't disconnect the fuel lines, and I unhooked the plug wires from the distributor and just let them hang, I didn't unplug them from the spark plugs or remove them. And if you have cruise control there is the one cruise control cable bracket in center top of manifold, also easy. With the fuel lines still hooked up I kinda "flip" the manifold over to the passenger side and lay it there upside down with the plug wires still strung through the runners. Someone posted a nice pic of that exact removal setup but I can't seem to find it.
For the manifold bolts, a 6mm allen socket (1/4" drive) works really well and I'd highly recommend you get one - my Craftsman set from Sears wasn't that expensive, you could just buy the individual socket for a few bucks.
And if you have an air compressor, blow the whole area out really well before you start so you don't risk any crap falling into the ports when you loosen stuff.
Sam
For the manifold bolts, a 6mm allen socket (1/4" drive) works really well and I'd highly recommend you get one - my Craftsman set from Sears wasn't that expensive, you could just buy the individual socket for a few bucks.
And if you have an air compressor, blow the whole area out really well before you start so you don't risk any crap falling into the ports when you loosen stuff.
Sam
03-20-2004, 05:19 PM
#36
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2004
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If you don't have a compressor a Shop-Vac makes an ok alternative to blowing all the crap out. Use an old toothbrush or something similar before pulling the intake to loosen any dust/dirt that's accumulated and then vacuum it or blow it off to really minimize the amount of gritty bad stuff in the general area.
Blowing it out is definitely the better choice of the two though if you have the option. Also, any powerful vacuum with a small probe tip is good for sucking stuff out of the ports if anything should still happen to get in there despite taking precautions.
Blowing it out is definitely the better choice of the two though if you have the option. Also, any powerful vacuum with a small probe tip is good for sucking stuff out of the ports if anything should still happen to get in there despite taking precautions.
03-31-2004, 02:14 AM
#37
hum...i got my lindsey vacuum line kit yesterday...the hose feels kinda squishy...is this stuff stiff enough to use for vacuum lines? it feels a *lot* softer than i imagined it would. though maybe i'm expecting it to feel all plasticky 'cos i'm used to the dried out stock lines
03-31-2004, 02:21 AM
#38
Race Director
I know what you mean! I was surprised at first. I had no worries for ages, then one split on me! I took my intake off like 3 times thinking it was an idle hose or the manfold seating... sooooo angry!
03-31-2004, 12:24 PM
#40
Burning Brakes
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Jon-
Thanks for the tip for slotting the Bolt hole for the dipstick mounting bolt. I'm pretty sure I spent about as much time on that bolt as on the rest of the procedure! BTW- is it possible/easy to replace the o-ring at the bottom of the dipstick tube w/o removing much stuff? Thanks.
Thanks for the tip for slotting the Bolt hole for the dipstick mounting bolt. I'm pretty sure I spent about as much time on that bolt as on the rest of the procedure! BTW- is it possible/easy to replace the o-ring at the bottom of the dipstick tube w/o removing much stuff? Thanks.
03-31-2004, 01:03 PM
#41
Instructor
BenZ,
Doesn't that o-ring just slip onto the bottom of the dip stick tube? If yours is missing, it may be stuck in dip stick hole in the block, so look there.
When properly seated, the o-ring should reside inside the dipstick bore in the block, not above it. That is, the metal flange above the bottom of the dipstick tube should touch the top of the dipstick bore, forcing the o-ring inside.
BTW, those ratcheting box-wrenches are great for bolts in tight places.
Jon.
Doesn't that o-ring just slip onto the bottom of the dip stick tube? If yours is missing, it may be stuck in dip stick hole in the block, so look there.
When properly seated, the o-ring should reside inside the dipstick bore in the block, not above it. That is, the metal flange above the bottom of the dipstick tube should touch the top of the dipstick bore, forcing the o-ring inside.
BTW, those ratcheting box-wrenches are great for bolts in tight places.
Jon.
03-31-2004, 04:11 PM
#42
Race Director
Ahhhh! My dipstick came out the other day when I was trying to bolt it up, I mean the hole assy came out. Now I have an oil leak low in the engine. I though I had put it in back right, nice solid clunk. So I guess the o-ring is not in right? Or there at all... anyone got the part number handy?
I would describe the Lindsey hose failure as usual for me. As it has happened. But I imagine unusual for most people. I think the SFR kit has better quality hose walls... IIRC. Tim, can you advise?
I would describe the Lindsey hose failure as usual for me. As it has happened. But I imagine unusual for most people. I think the SFR kit has better quality hose walls... IIRC. Tim, can you advise?
04-01-2004, 02:31 AM
#45
Three Wheelin'
My lindsey vac lines are holding up just fine. Was the split on an end that was maybe cut with a jagged edge, or was the split in the middle of the hose somewhere? If in the middle, I'd have to say it was a defective hose.