951blur

Can some of you share some of your stories and opinions from rebuilding your motor vs dropping in a used one in? Pros vs Cons

Can someone tell me how to upload pictures to this forum, how do you get it in http: format? Why can't it be simple like facebook!

I am confused because for the cost of a engine rebuild I can go buy another 944 turbo with all the mods I have "AND IT RUNS"!

rlm328

What is your definition of rebuilding? What is wrong with the motor you have now.

951blur

Hey Bob,

I helped you change your radiator out at TWS one day. That is Sam's old shop in the background

My piston rings are cracked and motor is tired. I found a used engine on ebay for $3K and it only has 70K miles on it. But to rebuild mine will be more and depending on what else is wrong internally it could be thousands more.

Would a smaller stroker kit be worth it in my case?

I going to be autocrossing the car so I want quick spool up and not much lag. Right now there is a track turbo on there and it doesn't hit until 3500 rpm. Lindsey 340 kit with the 4 inch exhaust is my current setup now.

I just want the damn thing to reliable at the end of the day, don't care about power "driving makes up for that"

mahoney944

i would say if you are looking for bang for your buck, a solid used motor could be the way to go, while its out, its a goot time to hit up all those seals with some fresh new ones or commetics ones. a rebuild would put your mind at easy knowing everything is done, but can get expensive quick.

User 52121

There was a freshly rebuilt motor FS on here a few months ago for $2800 IIRC.

Shop around and call your local indy to see if they have something kicking around.

Ski

Can you do any labor yourself? Once you get bearings, gaskets, the short block built, a head re-done, clutch package..a few sensors, all of a sudden you have a long block ready to put in there. There is enough talent around Houston that if you hosted a late breakfast and beer/pizza lunch, if you had everything laid out you would have a long block in the afternoon. A couple of guys cleaning/prepping parts, the more experienced guys measuring and assembly, and the torque crew

There is a good shop in San Antonio that is very familiar with Alusil and the boring/finishing process; Duffin Engine Service ($500-$700 if you want o-ring block) they have done about 10 engines for us. Most expensive part of the build is the pistons.

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2.8L

rlm328

To rebuild your block with stock parts can be done for under the cost of the used motor if you do all the work yourself. To build a good stroker will increase your costs considerably. I would by the used motor and rebuild the one you take out as you can afford it. I am getting ready to build a new short block but have decided on whether to recoat the cylinders or to sleeve. I have all of the other bits and pieces.

Ski

Sounds like the question might be what kind of Pizza do you like Bob?

Gator_86_951

I have an engine with ski's help and it wasn't that bad. I did all the work other than the short block myself. I mean - all myself - inclining installing it from the bottom. Car is in storage and has never been fully finished, but that is MY fault. I just ran out of time. Car comes out of storage soon, and I have a guy in Gaithersburg that will get it running proper at a speciality pork shop for like ~100/hour, which is a bargain around here.

Ski, we used duffln for my motor with the 101mm mahle pistons, right?

Ski

yes

V2Rocket

A used (standard) 951 motor for $3k? Keep looking.

There's a 92k mile one, running, still in the car local to me for $1500 for the engine, all wiring, intercooler/radiator and piping etc.

Look around some more if you want to go used, $3k is low-mile S2 motor territory.

I'll be rebuilding a 944 turbo engine very soon and can document costs for future reference.

Gator_86_951

I am with Bret; with a crew of guys that know these cars, long block goes together and in the car in a weekend....probably. If you have the space, seems like a non-brainer.

Ski

Double and triple check the clearance required for the pistons before you send the block to the machine shop. You can get Mahle from LR or talk to Chris White for Woosner.

We have used .0012" - .0015" on the Mahle with great success, good luck.

rlm328

Meatsa Pizza with beer.

Trying to respond on an IPad is a pain.

But yes you are correct. I would drop the motor and tear into it to see what it needed. If it cylinder walls were not scored I would build it back up from there with new expendables. But these things seldom break internally without damaging the walls to some extent. An alusil coating is nice but it is a break even cost with liners when everything is said and done. If I was building a 2.5stock motor or a stroker I would very sriously consider going the alusil route as you don't have to worry about thermal expansion rates on different materials. If you take a 2.5 to a 3.0 then you have to sleeve, and that is where my dilemma is right now.

I like the power of the 3 over the 2.8 as there is a definite difference, but the added cost re-decking a couple of times from oversized liners (like Darton) can be a pain. I am sure Chris White has it figured out but I am still on the very steep part of the learning curve.

951blur

I could do a few things with a good manual or someone telling my how to do it. I stay very busy with work and the PCA keeps me busy on the weekends so not much time to be working on the car. I would rather pay someone so that it comes with a warranty and reassurance!

If my piston rings are cracked does that mean the bore is scored and needs to be expanded, involving bigger pistons?