Hey guys, on some other forums I am on, they try to do a Topic of the Month (TOTM). Any interest in starting this trend? This could make the March TOTM. Makes it easy for some major topics to be condensed, and easier to be searched later. If anyone seems to like it, we can continue. If not whatever.

Anyways...

Would like to get some conversation going on standalone systems. I have been doing A LOT of research the last few months, trying to wrap my head around it all. I have been looking at MegaSquirt systems and reading the Megamanual over and over. The MegaSquirt system is just where I am getting my feet wet to learn. I think MegaSquirt is attractive because of the price point, but not sure if it may or may not have the functionality or fine "tuneability" of some other systems such as TEC3 or SDS. I feel I have a good grip on how the system functions and the components it takes to make such a system work properly.

Anyone with more experience want to share their knowledge and pros or cons with various systems. Looking forward to learning more.

 

Have you searched on here? I have a Link standalone. Let me know if you have specific questions. The thing your going to face is what type of trigger setup you want to use.

 

I have searched on here. Just trying to get some dialogue going. What people are using, their experiences with different systems, and some particulars of how they have their system configured (hardware aspect).

Personally, I would use a 60-2 triggering wheel on the crank pulley with the MegaSquirt system. For systems such as Tec3r, those such parts are included with the kit. And I do know Chris White also sells a Tec3r kit with pre-modded parts.

 

Great idea! I have thoroughly enjoyed the transition to a standalone system and feel that the systems today have become user friendly enough for the "average guy" to learn and operate.

The DIY systems like MegaSquirt are definitely cost effective, but from a packaging point, in my opinion, they seem to represent a steep learning curve in order to adapt them to run off the factory speed and reference sensors. Unfortunately, there isn't enough guys in the 944 community who have played with this system to come up with an approach that easy and reliable. Having to come up with a separate triggering format definitely adds to the overall cost and to a degree the complexity of getting the system to run correctly.

There are also "brand name" alternatives available now that would suite the 944/951 street guy without breaking the bank. For under $1000, you can get an ECU that will support the factory triggers, allow for very powerful datalogging capabilites, electronic boost control, wasted spark / group fueling or even sequential ignition /fueling and offer provisions for knock control as an additional option. I believe the tuning interface is what really represents the largest hurdle for anyone interested in a standalone system. That said, options of a given ecu are only a part of the equation - navigating the software to utilize the functions is a much bigger part of succeeding with a standalone system.

For guys willing to wire up a MegaSquirt, I would recommend searching for packaged systems with comparable capabilities. Some of the items to look for specific to the 944/951 would be:

132 tooth trigger capability
3 wire idle control motor support
# of ignition channels
# of injection channels
# of analog inputs - ie. wideband, EGT, coolant temp, IAT, knock signal
# or AUX outputs - ie. ICV, Tach, boost solenoid, fuel pump, A/C relay
# of Digital inputs - ie. Low / High boost switch, Clutch switch, Vehicle Speed

The tuning power of standalone systems have come a long way. Many quality ecu's now offer digital knock control as an included option. This packaging offers a "one stop shop" with regard to the hardware required to effectively run and protect your engine. So, in the grand scheme of things, this really represents a degree of savings cause if you were to compare a piggyback system approach that requires many separate devices to achieve a similar result (wasted spark, EBC, tuning software w/ datalogging, knock control feedback) I would be surprised if a standalone system would cost much more.

 

been meaning to reply to your email Vic. Especially since tax returns are coming, lol.

 

I'm surprised you didn't talk about the ViPec you've got on your car?

 

Pauly,
I want to help share information without violating any of the forum rules. Talking about the standalone system I use would come across like a sales pitch and I'm not interested in that. I think it is a great idea to start a dialog about this subject cause there are limited tuning options available for our 951 cars. With 25+ year old wiring harnesses, I think the feasibility of wiring up a new harness along with updating to modern day electronics will really make sense to some here.

 

Pm sent. Don't think i'll be allowed to say what i want to say here.

 

Running megasquirt with a 36-1 trigger wheel on the back of the crank pulley and a VR sensor off a 1.9 ford escort for crank speed. Custom bracketry, ECU wired into a gutted DME box and run into the stock, uncut wiring harness. Uses factory coolant temp sensor, reference sensor, and a GM IAT sensor just before the throttle body. Running speed/density. Maps built and tuned by myself on the road.

 

MS3PRO = $1200 not exactly cheap..

 

I have a Wolf 3D for the 951 engine, but I've only started it up a few times and never tuned with it before I took it apart.

I had an 034 IIc on my Audi which I've since removed and replaced with VEMS. I like the flexibility that VEMS has. 034 is still a great unit and they've got a lot good features, just not as much flexibility and they've fallen behind in what's being offered on other systems. VEMS starts at ~$750

 

One of the major flaws of all the stand alone systems that I have tried out is that they actually don't stand alone. If you try that you will find out that they tip over as soon as you accelerate or corner. They are not very good at the 'standing' part, in fact I have found, though extensive testing, that stand alones work better when they are bolted down in the car...but then they are not standing alone anymore. I have not been able to measure any loss of performance due to bolting them in place, perhaps on the more advanced versions there is a 'virtual' stand alone function that allows the ECU and its owner to believe that it is still standing and alone while it is actually lying down and joined with the car......

Maybe a more serious post in a little bit!

 

C'mon Chris. This is a serious thread!

 

Curious why most people ditch the factory triggers. Do the stand-alone (sic) systems lack the trigger-reading hardware needed to keep up with 132 teeth per rev (i.e. can't replicate the function of the DME's S100 chip), or are the processors/firmware just not set up to keep up with that many teeth -- or both? I have an aging Link G4 I'm intending to use someday -- so also curious about experiences with that system.

 

Chris, With further testing with my standalone after i took a corner a little to tight and it constantly tipping over. I've developed a kind of stabilising unit that helps it from tipping over. Basically what it is, It's like extra feet CNC machined out of aircraft grade aluminium that attaches to the unit itself so it doesn't tip over.

I've heard of these "bolt on units" but i'm not a big fan of bolt on parts, especially if they're overnight from japan.